Cover Glenglassaugh Master Blender Rachel Barrie
Glenglassaugh Master Blender Rachel Barrie
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At the global launch of the Serpentine Cask Collection in Singapore, master distiller Rachel Barrie speaks on the Scottish distillery's unique coastal terroir, the challenges she faced, and how her sons reminded her of the rare expressions
When Glenglassaugh closed its doors in 1986, no one was certain about its future. For the uninitiated, the 80s were a turbulent time for Scottish distilleries where demand for whisky fell to an all-time low. Gradually, one too many boilers were strong-armed to shut down, barley trade haltered and plenty of distillery doors closed. Falling victim to such an anomaly, Glenglassaugh moth-balled for the next two decades while some distilleries such as Port Ellen met their fateful end.
It wasn’t until 2008 that a fervent group of whisky enthusiasts decided to revive the dormant distillery. As if a sleeping giant had been awakened, the rare casks that were left to mature in the coastal warehouses—where Scotland’s rugged northeast coastline acted as custodians of the orphaned spirit—were unbarred. Fast forward 22 years and under the watchful eye of Master Blender Rachel Barrie—one of the world’s most revered Master Blenders who was honoured with the accolade of Master Blender/Distiller of the Year in 2020—three Glenglassaugh expressions are now ready for the world to savour.
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Above The Glenglassaugh Serpentine Cask Collection
The Glenglassaugh Serpentine Cask Collection
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At the global launch held at the alluring one-Michelin-starred Marguerite in Singapore, a trio of old and rare single-malt whiskies—each aged 48 years and above, and bottled from a single cask—were proudly released. The collection is named after the precious serpentine marble found in the cliffs surrounding the Glenglassaugh distillery where “it is reflective of the influence of the sea,” said Barrie when she sat down with Tatler Dining at the launch.
As is synonymous with all Glenglassaugh expressions, the spirit is undoubtedly shaped by influences of land and sea. “There is no other single malt like it,” shares Barrie who has worked with numerous distilleries including those of the Highland, Islay, and Speyside. In her memory, the biggest challenge from the past was that “Glenglassaugh was once viewed as an outlier. It produced an expression that was so different from typical Highland distilleries that even those who owned the distillery way back in the day tried to change it.”
But what was once a challenge back then is now the greatest opportunity. The home to Glenglassaugh is Sandend Bay, which imparts distinct characteristics of its unique coastal terroir to the single malts. “The distillery is right on the coast; we’ve got the most mineral-rich water in the whole of Scotland; the rolling waves; the surf and breeze from the sea; and the magnificent stills,” enthused Barrie. The rest lies on Barrie’s shoulders. Armed with over 30 years of service to the whisky industry, her approach is simply “to nurture the best of nature, just like a child.”
Above Glenglassaugh Cask Number 5640 and Cask Number 1863
Glenglassaugh Cask Number 5640 and Cask Number 1863
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Having Barrie pick out her favourite among the three rare expressions is like asking her to choose among her three sons. “They are all so different. My oldest son reminds me of the 49-year-old; cerebral and wise,” she chuckled. Aged in a bourbon barrel, the medallion gold Cask Number 5640 unfurls with white peach and sweet coconut cream with a bit of a sultry ocean breeze. Tropical notes of guava and passionfruit caress the palate while salted caramel lingers.
“My middle son is like the 48-year-old—enigmatic like a puzzle,” she continues. The rouge bronze Cask Number 1863 offers enticing waves of soft blueberry, juicy peach and tamarind on a base of gently salted pistachio cream. The austere expression then attacks with a delicious melange of mouthwatering blackberry, lychee and raspberry infused with passion fruit and sea salt. “Ageing it in an Aleatico red wine barrique helps bring out more ripe fruit flavours.”
Above Glenglassaugh Cask Number 1723
Glenglassaugh Cask Number 1723
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Ironically, “my youngest son is the biggest and boldest, much like the 51-year-old which reminds me of the ocean depths.” The molten bronze Cask Number 1723 surprises with a drier finish derived from the use of an Oloroso sherry cask. On the nose, there’s plenty of sun-dried raisins and blood orange preserve, alongside sandalwood, spiced vetiver and sea salt. Like waves, raisin balsamic, blackberry, and salted treacle infused with orange and sloe syrup, then envelop the palate. “Glenglassaugh is never dry. So coastal malt and Oloroso sherry together is an unexpected combination.”
“The legacy of our most sought-after casks dates back to the 1970s when these precious liquids were first laid down, patiently harnessing rich natural colour and sublime character, naturally forming the apex of our single malt whisky,” explains Barrie. “It is extremely rare to find casks which have been left to mature in coastal locations for such a long period of time. These casks give a unique insight into the nature of whisky making at the distillery before it was closed and capture a moment in time like few other expressions can.”
The first three casks from the Serpertine Cask Collection will be exclusively launched for pre-sale in Singapore in January 2024 and available globally—spanning across the USA, Asia, Europe, Middle East, and the Pacific—after bottlings in the spring.
Credits
Images: Glenglassaugh
