Cover From the early days of uncertainty to a journey that took her across Asia in search of genuine tea masters, Ninh has crafted Ninh Tra, a distinctive tea space connecting people with the ritual of tea.
From the early days of uncertainty to a journey that took her across Asia in search of genuine tea masters, Ninh has crafted Ninh Tra, a distinctive tea space connecting people with the ritual of tea.
1 / 1
Ninh, founder of Ninh Tra, believes true tea mastery reveals how much there is to learn.
When Ninh met her first master in Hong Kong—the one who gave her her first true understanding of tea—she asked, “I have studied tea and built a foundation of knowledge. Could you teach me something more fundamental?” He replied, “It is difficult to say. The knowledge of tea is vast, and the Western and Eastern approaches may differ. Please set up the tea table and prepare tea for us to share—then I will know what guidance to offer.”
When she performed the tea-making ritual as she had learned it, the master took a sip, paused, and said, “I’m sorry to say this, but you are merely a seller of teaware…”
"The more I learn, the more I realise how much I lack”
Ninh’s journey did not begin as a business venture. Trained as a sociologist, with a background in culture, society, and psychology, she had unknowingly laid the groundwork for what would later become her path in tea.
Originally from Hanoi, she moved to Ho Chi Minh City with her husband and first pursued a business in ceramics. Having grown up with fresh teapots and the astringent flavour of traditional Thai Nguyen tea, she often reflected on customers’ questions about the ideal teacups and pots for different brews. Her curiosity eventually led her to import tea alongside her ceramics—until a loyal customer gently pointed out, “This tea is over-steeped. Selling it will harm your reputation; please check your source.”
That moment of realisation ignited within her a determination to deepen her understanding.
Above In Chinese, “Ninh” means peace—a quiet space, a sanctuary where she offers customers a sense of balance amid the rush of modern life.
In Chinese, “Ninh” means peace—a quiet space, a sanctuary where she offers customers a sense of balance amid the rush of modern life.
1 / 1
Nearly a decade ago, studying tea in a structured and scholarly manner in Vietnam was not easy, making overseas exploration the most viable option. Initially, Ninh approached tea through a Western lens, drawn by the convenience of language. Yet something felt incomplete. Determined to go deeper, she taught herself Chinese and travelled to Hong Kong to study under a master.
“My investment in tea education at the time was considerable, yet my teacher dismissed me as someone who only sold teaware, rather than someone who truly understood tea. It left me both surprised and intrigued,” she recalls.
Above With nothing more than a small tea tray and delicate cups, the focus is not on the accessories but on the tea itself. Every movement, every gesture, holds meaning—a ritual of care, an act of reverence, treating tea as a cherished companion.
With nothing more than a small tea tray and delicate cups, the focus is not on the accessories but on the tea itself. Every movement, every gesture, holds meaning—a ritual of care, an act of reverence, treating tea as a cherished companion.
1 / 1
That question became clearer as Ninh continued her studies with her teacher and deepened her tea practice. The more she understood about tea, the more she realised that what she had demonstrated in that tea-making session years ago—setting up an elaborate tea table with numerous tools, intricate techniques, and excessive detail—had only been a performance. She had focused on the tools rather than pouring her heart into the tea itself.
By contrast, her teacher used only a small tea tray and delicate teacups, yet his focus was entirely on the tea. Every gesture, every movement, was imbued with care, treating tea as a cherished companion. “We treasure each drop, concentrating on its essence to savour its full flavour and energy, so that tea and the person drinking it become one—calm and at peace.” This was the profound lesson he imparted.
Above A fateful bond with tea
A fateful bond with tea
1 / 1
Tea entered Ninh’s life by chance, but it remained as if it had always been her destiny.
Her journey into the practice and application of tea began in 2017, when she opened her first tea space, Dong Phuong Tra Ky, marking her early steps along this path. As she delved deeper, she realised her knowledge barely scratched the surface of tea’s vast universe. This understanding led her to rename her space Goc Tra. In 2020, eager to expand, she experimented with a modern tea concept aimed at younger audiences, but the idea was not well received—at the time, tea was still widely associated with the older generation. Then the pandemic struck, bringing everything to a standstill.
Yet challenges often bring unexpected opportunities. Out of these difficulties, Goc Tra evolved into Ninh Tra. As life resumed post-pandemic, her customer base grew, and she resolved to start again. She began with intimate workshops introducing people to tea, then expanded into curated tea experiences and themed tasting sessions. Eventually, she launched Tea Omakase—her most refined offering, inspired by the Japanese art of omakase.
Above When people think of tea, they often think of Teaism. But Teaism is not a religion—it is a journey, an experience.
When people think of tea, they often think of Teaism. But Teaism is not a religion—it is a journey, an experience.
1 / 1
“I, like many of my customers, once had strong preferences for certain types of tea. Over time, I have come to understand that those who have never been moved by tea may simply not have had the right introduction. Perhaps they started with a tea that didn’t suit their palate. That is why I created Tea Omakase—to guide them into the world of tea in the most seamless way, rather than allowing a single unfamiliar flavour to close the door on their journey.”
In July 2024, Ninh restructured her brand, renaming it Ninh Tra. “Ninh,” in Chinese, means peace—a name given to her by her grandfather at birth. It also represents a quiet space, a sanctuary where she offers customers a moment of balance amidst the turbulence of life. With this new chapter, both Ninh and her tea brand embarked on a fresh beginning.
Tea ceremony or life experience?
“When we talk about tea, we immediately think of Teaism. But Teaism is not a religion—it is a journey, a path of experience,” Ninh reflects.
Her connection with tea may have started by chance, but it became an inescapable force in her life. “Tea has transformed me. It has softened my sharper edges, made me more flexible.” Her practice follows the principle: First, water; second, tea; third, the cup; fourth, the teapot; fifth, companionship. With water comprising 99% of a tea’s quality, this hierarchy taught her patience, observation, and the art of yielding—like water itself, fluid yet boundlessly powerful.
Above “Each person will have their own relationship with tea. But one thing is certain—this journey cannot be rushed. It requires patience, reflection, and a deep engagement with each stage,” says Ninh, founder of Ninh Tra.
“Each person will have their own relationship with tea. But one thing is certain—this journey cannot be rushed. It requires patience, reflection, and a deep engagement with each stage,” says Ninh, founder of Ninh Tra.
1 / 1
Ninh speaks of her journey through the world of tea with deep emotion and reverence. She has travelled extensively—from Hong Kong, Taiwan, and China to Japan, Thailand, Malaysia, Korea, and back to Vietnam. Yet, after all these journeys, she arrived at one simple truth: openness to receive. True appreciation of tea cannot be dictated by one’s own knowledge or experiences, nor can it be imposed upon others.
Taste is shaped by a person’s history, culture, lifestyle, personal encounters with tea, and countless other influences. “Doing business is like serving a hundred families,” she reflects. “The first step is to listen. Only then can we gently introduce, share, and guide them towards discovering something new in their own time.”
Above Clinging to the past prevents the courage and motivation needed to move forward. The road of tea is filled with invaluable lessons, but only for those willing to embrace change.
Clinging to the past prevents the courage and motivation needed to move forward. The road of tea is filled with invaluable lessons, but only for those willing to embrace change.
1 / 1
To fully experience the essence of tea is to experience life itself. The six fundamental types—white, green, yellow, oolong, black, and dark tea—each reflect a different stage of existence.
White tea embodies the purity of youth, untouched and unburdened. Green tea is like a young woman in her twenties, full of vibrancy and promise.
Yellow tea, having undergone transformation, mirrors the first contemplations of adulthood, tinged with change. Oolong tea is a woman of complexity—layered, rich, and shaped by a life of colour and brilliance.
Black tea is a mature woman, steady and warm, carrying the grace of knowing how to give and receive.
And finally, dark tea. Like an elderly woman with silver hair and wisdom in her eyes, no longer defined by youthful beauty but possessing a depth of understanding that surpasses all.
Each person experiences tea in their own way. But one thing is certain—this journey cannot be hurried; it demands patience and reflection at every stage.
Above Tea softens Ninh without taking away her fire
Tea softens Ninh without taking away her fire
1 / 1
Tea has softened Ninh’s edges, but it has not diminished her spark. “I ask myself a lot of questions, and if I cannot answer them, I feel restless,” she admits.
Hanging on her wall is a piece of calligraphy gifted by a Malaysian teacher—a reminder to stay present and trust in the future.
“The tea path has many invaluable lessons. If you hold too tightly to the past, you will never have the courage to step forward.”
“There were moments when my legs grew weary, yet I couldn't resist the urge to turn the next page. I wanted to push my endurance, resilience, and limits—to see just how far I could go.”
The road to Ninh Tra gaining recognition and acceptance was anything but easy. There were moments of uncertainty, countless lessons, and periods of doubt. Lessons in mastery and humility, in collecting and commerce, in competition, in managing relationships with employees and customers—and, perhaps most importantly, in understanding herself. It has been a long and deeply transformative journey. In times of greatest uncertainty, Ninh turned inward, seeking comfort in her own inner child to find balance.
“Closing the door, meditating, I filter my thoughts and reflect on myself—to recognise what is working well and what needs improvement. I’m also fortunate to have friends in tea, people who encourage me, who remind me that I am on the right path and that many people value what I do.”
Read more: The Founder of Hum Dining and the passion for sharing Vietnamese culture through vegetarian cuisine
Tea did not just happen to Ninh—she believes tea chose her. “It’s like reading a book. I turn the pages, and I can’t stop. This book is so fascinating, this path is so beautiful, and I just want to keep walking it forever. Sometimes my feet are tired, but my curiosity about what lies ahead keeps me going. I want to test my endurance, my stamina, my limits, and see how far I can go.”
Ninh Tra—A different way of making tea
How does Ninh Tra continue to attract and convince customers of the value of its high-end tea experiences—of quality that justifies both time and expense?
“First, you must understand that quality is everything,” Ninh explains. “When customers experience true quality—when they taste an exceptional tea and compare it with an inferior one—the difference becomes clear. The experience itself moves them. They begin to appreciate and love fine tea, and naturally, they want to explore further. That is why I chose Tea Omakase.”
No two experiences at Ninh Tra are ever the same. From the toothpick to the cake, to the shifting nuances of the tea itself, each element is carefully curated.
Once, a customer was delighted with a Japanese-style tea she had prepared. But Ninh knew it could be made in an entirely different way—one that would reveal new layers of complexity and aroma. “I told them there was a more interesting way to brew this tea,” she recalls. Intrigued, the customer immediately booked a return visit, eager to experience what she had described.
There is something enigmatic about Ninh. Is she an introvert or an extrovert? At times, she is vibrant and animated; at others, she is serene, withdrawn into her own quiet world. She smiles at the question.
“This is a tea shop—Huong Tam. It means always looking towards customers, understanding their needs and desires, and bringing them the very best we can offer.”
In 2025, Ninh Tra will continue to set clear and achievable goals. Yet, regardless of the opportunities ahead, there is one thing Ninh is certain will never change—sincerity. It is this sincerity that has brought tea companions into her life during difficult times and opened doors to opportunities beyond mere financial success. “If I hadn’t chosen this path, how would I have had the chance to meet them?” she reflects, as if reminding herself of the journey.
Above Huong Tam Tea Shop means always looking towards customers, understanding their needs and desires, and bringing them the very best we can offer.
Huong Tam Tea Shop means always looking towards customers, understanding their needs and desires, and bringing them the very best we can offer.
1 / 1
Above Ninh prepares tea with patience and solemnity.
Ninh prepares tea with patience and solemnity.
1 / 1
In 2025, Ninh Tra will continue to set clear and achievable goals. Yet, regardless of the opportunities ahead, there is one thing Ninh is certain will never change: sincerity. It is this sincerity that has brought tea companions into her life during difficult times and opened doors to opportunities beyond mere financial success. “If I hadn’t chosen this path, how would I have had the chance to meet them?” she reflects, as if reminding herself of the journey.
This article was adapted from the original feature published in the February 2025 issue of Tatler Vietnam.
READ MORE
Cuisine and watchmaking: Similarities through the eyes of Hublot ambassador - chef Silvio Germann
