Cover Pangium senior sommelier, Helen Chong

The senior sommelier of this contemporary straits restaurant shares her most memorable pours and what she'd probably be doing if she weren't in the wine industry

Our By The Glass series sees sommeliers and wine experts share some vinous inspiration for your next pour.

Sommelier Helen Chong is a familiar face in the local drinks industry, having worked at notable establishments such as Les Amis, Summer Pavilion (where she introduced the grower champagne and dim sum pairing) and La Terre Wine Bar. Today, she is the senior sommelier at contemporary straits restaurant, Pangium, helmed by chef-owner Malcolm Lee. Here, she has curated a concise wine list comprising classic pours and niche varieties which complement Lee’s delectable creations. Here are some of her favourite pours. 

Read more: Tatler Dining Guide 2022: The Winners of the Best of the Year Awards

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Pangium interior
Above Pang susi (Image: CR Tan)

An early (in your career) wine that made you go ‘Wow! I want to be a sommelier’

Helen Chong (HC): Way too many wines have inspired my journey. It would be hard for me to single one out. Frankly, what really inspired me to become a sommelier were the people I worked with and the guests who enjoyed the wines I had handpicked for them. They bring me great joy.

Most memorable pour?

HC: 1982 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet—the first bottle of vintage wine that I opened beautifully on my own without breaking the cork.

Tipple for a Tuesday?

HC: 2020 Domaine de Bellevue “Macération”, a pinot gris from the Loire Valley in France. It is a skin contact (also known as orange or amber wine) white wine made like red wine. It is fermented with grape skins, which impart colour, body and complexity. It has a seductive tanginess similar to the flavour of orange and citrus, lively red cherries, hints of peaches, and a mouth-watering mineral finish. These flavours complement the unique dishes at Pangium.

Sun sea and…

HC: A sparkling wine from the Loire Valley or Franciacorta; an albariño, a white wine; or a modern-styled Barolo, which is a red wine.

Wine of the moment?

HC: 2018 Stefano Accordini Acinatico, Amarone della Valpolicella. I discovered this wine when I was working with the team on Pangium’s wine pairing for our opening menu which we now refer to as “Menu No. 1”. It has distinct flavours of dried fruit and spices that pair well with our signature take on nasi ulam, a mixed herb rice course that is accompanied by an array of side dishes including a selection of sambals (pungent, spicy sauces).

The wine’s full body and medium-high acidity complement the rich and flavourful side dishes as well as the hand-minced duck ball satay wrapped in caul fat. The sweetness and dried fruit nuances counterbalance the spiced sauces.

What do you wish a customer would order?

HC: Dry rosés made from cabernet franc grapes from Chinon, Loire Valley, France. It is a versatile wine that pairs well with various cuisines without breaking the bank. A dry, aromatic and refreshing wine that is perfect for our Little Red Dot where it is summer all year round.

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Pang susi (Image: CR Tan)
Above Pang susi (Image: CR Tan)

What you love to recommend to guests from wine by glass list:

HC: Ricca Terra, a pet net (pétillant naturel) sparkling from South Australia made from Italy’s ancient grape varietals: Uva di Troia, Zibibbo, Nero d'Avola. Its signature freshness and slightly off-dry flavour has the ability to complement a wide array of food, which makes this wine the perfect aperitif to start a meal with.

Best from your by-the-glass list?

HC: 2020 Querciabella Vermentino “Mongrana Bianco” from Tuscany, Italy.

This is often compared to sauvignon blanc, albarino or pinot grigio. It is crisp, fresh, young and floral, with aromas of citrus and tropical fruits. It complements our pang susi, a snack traditionally served in Eurasian homes for afternoon tea, beautifully. The solid core of supple fruits in the wine pairs perfectly with the Iberico pork cheek and candied winter melon filling.

A special something?

HC: Special Crusoe Treasure Sea Legend No. 5, Viognier N.V. Ribera del Duero, Spain.

This is a special limited edition white wine which is aged under the sea—a rare wine to represent my love and loyalty to family and friends; or to indulge in with loved ones on my birthday.

Bottle to bring to a dinner party?

HC: A Beaujolais. Its soft tannins and red berry flavours with a subtle earthy finish pair well with almost everything on the table. This is one of the red wine styles that can be enjoyed chilled. Generally softer on tannins, you can sip on it all night long and even enjoy it with pizza.

What’s in your cellar

HC: You will find a mix of all styles in my cellar: 2007 Sassicaia, which I bought when I first ventured into my wine career; 1995 Francois Pinon Vouvray Moelleux Cuvee de Novembre from Loire Valley, France; 2017 Moorooduc Pinot Noir from Mornington Peninsula, Victoria. It is a beautiful bottle I bought while travelling in Australia before the pandemic.

What would you want to be your last (final) glass?

HC: A fortified wine made of merlot grapes from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand—specifically one from Clear View Winery. This was the first wine that set my journey into the world of wine.

If not wine, then what?

HC: I would be practising latte art or working out at the gym.

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