Geneva Watch Days 2025: 10 watches we love from the watch fair

The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon from H. Moser & Cie. brings together tradition, elegance, and subtle irreverence. The smoked salmon dial, enhanced by a vertical griffé finish and Moser’s signature fumé effect, captures light with mineral-like depth, shifting from soft copper to warm brown.

Beneath beats the HMC 800 calibre, which operates a central hand that tracks the months, a large date window at 3 o’clock with the “Flash Calendar” function that changes instantly at midnight, and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock displaying seven days of autonomy. Available in 42mm white gold case and paired with a dark brown alligator strap, the watch is at once classic and quietly playful.

Read more: Chopard’s L.U.C Qualité Fleurier receives its first yellow gold model

Czapek & Cie’s Antarctique Rattrapante ‘R.U.R.’ brings mechanical artistry to life with a playful robot animation on the grey-metallised sapphire dial. As the split-seconds chronograph is activated, the robot’s eyes change colour—yellow on start, red on stop, and blue on reset—drawing attention to the exquisite mechanics beneath. Its titanium head, cut, hand-polished, and laser-engraved by MD’Art, features micro-painted neon eyes, turning each timepiece into a miniature work of art and precision engineering. Beneath this playful exterior lies Calibre SXH6, designed with Jean-François Mojon of Chronode to showcase the split-seconds mechanism on the dial side.

Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater makes a bold return, marrying audacious elegance with technical artistry. The 40mm yellow-gold cushion case, paired with a deep black onyx dial, channels Genta’s signature forms while optimising sound for the ultra-thin case measuring 9.60mm in height. Inside, the manual-winding Calibre GG-002 is a marvel of haute horlogerie, with hand-beveled angles, Côtes de Genève, and an octagonal inertia wheel paying tribute to Genta’s geometric genius. Every detail, from the polished trigger to the resonant single-revolution gong, celebrates craftsmanship, transforming this limited edition into a wrist-bound symphony of form, function, and exquisite sound.

See also: Evelyne Genta on Gérald Genta’s lasting legacy in watchmaking

Vianney Halter collaborated with Behrens to create the Master Collection KWH, inspired by vintage industrial instruments and early digital games. An encounter with an antique electricity meter in Halter’s workshop sparked the watch’s square case, while playful nods to Snake and Tetris inform the dial’s whimsical aesthetic. The hour display features Behrens’ patented ruby-bearing micro-chain system: a “pixel snake” of seven dots rotates continuously, allowing the wearer to read hours at a glance, blending nostalgia with mechanical ingenuity.

Beneath this inventive display, the BM06 manual-winding calibre powers the watch with twin barrels and a 72-hour reserve. The lower dial uses Behrens’ axial system: the left axis shows power reserve and day-night, the right axis displays minutes. Additional calendar and moon-phase functions on the caseback are easily adjusted via integrated pushers. 

The Ulysse Nardin Freak [X Crystalium] redefines watchmaking with a rotating Crystalium hour disc, crafted from ruthenium and treated with rose-gold PVD. Formed through a vapour-deposition crystallisation process, each disc is unique, shimmering with fractal-like texture. Housed in a black DLC titanium case with a ballistic rubber strap, the Freak [X Crystalium] pairs the automatic UN-230 calibre’s flying carrousel and silicon balance with striking visual depth, expressing Ulysse Nardin’s vision of material innovation and mechanical audacity.

Louis Moinet’s new 1806 is certified as an observatory chronometer after 15 days of rigorous positional and temperature testing. Inspired by history’s first chronograph, its Directoire-style semi-bassine case in polished and satin-finished grade 5 titanium exudes understated power, while the engraved fleur-de-lis crown nods to the founder’s birthplace. The rhodium-plated dial, with satin and bead-blasted finishes, blued steel hands with SLN tips, and a peripheral minute flange punctuated by cabochons, fuses historical craftsmanship with modern clarity. A sapphire caseback reveals the openworked, gilded rotor of the certified automatic movement, numbered and authenticated, while the titanium bracelet, with flowing wide links and alternating finishes, offers ergonomic elegance. 

Urwerk’s emblematic UR-150 now comes in a striking blue, lending softness to the edgy mechanism within. At its heart, a mechanical spectacle unfolds as three pivoting hour satellites orbit on a constantly rotating flying carousel beneath a sapphire dome, while a taut retrograde hand sweeps across a 240-degree arc to frame the active hour. At the 60th minute, the hand snaps back in an instant, as the satellites pivot and rotate 270-degree in perfect synchrony. This breathtaking ballet is orchestrated by a cam-and-rack mechanism inspired by automatons, coupled with a speed governor that balances forces and harnesses energy. The retrograde hand does more than mark minutes—it guides and highlights the active hour satellite, then pounces to the next hour with precision, while a high-precision articulated skeleton arm, governed by the mechanism, synchronises jumps, defines trajectories, and multiplies energy to power the satellites’ rotation. 

A personal favourite, the ALD Dual Time from Dennison reimagines vintage elegance through the artistry of stone. Housed in a gently curved cushion case inspired by 1970s “TV case” designs, the watch gains presence with its slightly larger proportions while remaining effortlessly wearable. It is further distinguished by dual stone dials, where contrasting minerals frame two independent time zones in perfect symmetry. Each combination tells its own story: tiger’s eye glimmers with golden warmth against the cool refinement of black marble, while the vivid green of bloodstone meets the celestial depth of lapis lazuli. Beyond their visual poetry, the stones serve a practical purpose—allowing the wearer to read both time zones at a glance. 

Jacob & Co.’s Astronomia Solar Dragon is a 44mm spectacle featuring a rose gold dragon sculpted from three solid pieces. It is hand-engraved, polished, and painted over three weeks to achieve its exquisite texture and colour. The creature wraps around the Astronomia Solar movement, visible from every angle through the domed sapphire crystal and caseband, while staying mere millimeters from the mechanics. A 288-facet Jacob-cut gem crowns each piece. 

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