Reimagined Regalia: 5 Designers Modernising Barong Tagalog

Kelvin Morales, the designer behind the eponymous label, grew a following in the local scene through a widely celebrated embroidered barong. His bespoke piece, Magtataho, caught the eyes of fashion enthusiasts wanting a modern sartorial upgrade to the barong. But for Kelvin, it’s as personal as it can get. “I reminisced about my childhood memories. Like waiting for the taho vendor to pass by the gate of my house in the morning or seeing the neighbour leaving his house with a rooster tucked into his arms,” he says.

He furthers, "When I was a kid, my brother and I always love doing random sketches, and when we finish our grandparents [critiqued] them, showing us how we could improve what we drew."

Perhaps it's this upbringing that puts a tangible sentimentality, if not melancholia, in his pieces.

An ode to our street hawkers and childhood nostalgia, the embroidered barong has been a staple piece in his collection since. For him, “the best way to show our heritage is by innovating the classic barong.”

See also: National Heritage Month: How to Pull Off a Barong Tagalog

His other works also provoke the mind, which is his admitted intention. “Dark and atypical stories,” he recounts the sources of inspiration he uses to breathe life into his creations. “I use them to translate my visions and curiosities into thought-provoking and exciting clothing,” he says.

And true enough, from the pleated royal blue pants and jackets with adjustable lace that gathers at several levels to create a ballooning shape in his SS22 collection to the unreleased sculptural acrylic glass wearable art that forms a wing-like appearance, Kelvin likes to challenge the silhouette of the human body as much as the facilities of the human mind.

But for RJ Santos of Randolf Clothing, it’s a different story.

He is inspired by music. “I love listening to different kinds of music. My SS2018 collection for Tokyo Fashion Week started when I was driving home from the gym, and ABBA’s Dancing Queen played,” he says. 

And one might wonder what kind of music sparked the creation of his personal stamp in barongs: a deliberate cheekiness that hints at derision to society’s pop culture obsession, yet with the level of craftsmanship warranted in handling a nation’s regalia.

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"I was initially attracted to the fabric. I never wanted to enter the barong game in the first place, but eventually, I found myself being more into the process of making one, especially the techniques that can be done on the fabric to achieve different designs and textures," RJ says.

He adds, "The brand is mostly inspired by Dadaism and pop culture, how funnily obsessive it can get." His barong embroidery designs bring to mind Haring's or Lichtenstein's influence on pop art that shocks the senses with an explosion of colours and whimsical illustrations that poke fun at a humourless world. This, ingrained in the Pina gauze or translucent Jusi fabric, generates a delicious juxtaposition of contexts and histories.

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Speaking of juxtapositions, here's another: sex and tradition.

Sex sells. From naked bodies silhouetted in sheer to cutouts taking us on a dangerous game of anatomical peek-a-boo, one of the oldest marketing ploys in the book has never worked better than in fashion. And the fact that every time Tong Bautista of Hubadero Studio churns out a collection, it immediate sells out is a testament to this.

The brand's official Instagram store warns, "wear at your own risk." There is this palpable sense of sex and danger in his pieces. "If it's not broken, why fix it?" he says. Yet, this is a gamble.

A gamble that obviously paid off. Tong proves, "Back in 2020 mid lockdown, I wanted to make a piece for myself to wear. I actually experimented [on making] a silkscreen stencil for myself, knowing that I do not have any knowledge [on how to make] a silkscreen. But eventually, after a few tries, it did end up looking good. I tried transferring my design to the jusi fabric I bought for this project and started sewing it. I posted it online, and surprisingly, many people liked it so much that they also wanted to get one."

"Our brand promotes male sex appeal; that's why a contrast between something sexy and something that represents something religious is very interesting and intriguing to look at," he adds. Hubadero Studio takes traditional wear from a generally traditional country to the other end of the spectrum: sexy, irreverent, dangerous. While technically not an embroidery, his print exhibits the same subverted concept.

Three designers vastly differing in perspectives, yet all proof that imageries embroidered or printed in a barong can act as conduits of subversion. A subversion of reality, references, and virtues.

See also: 5 Ways Martin Margiela Challenged Fashion

Textiles and temerity

Fashion's dictum changes with the passing of time in silent (or noisy) cataclysms. An interrogation of tradition pushes clothing to evolve in new forms and meanings. For barong, what was once strictly formal menswear took on a more casual and flamboyant form; what was once crafted stringently of pina fabric is now seeing a more liberal modification in techniques and textiles. It was because style magnates, the intelligentsia and everyone in between dared to reimagine.

The same temerity sparked Veronica Mae “V” Baguio of Balik-Batik to design her version of barong tagalog. “Someone asked me to design a barong tagalog that he can wear,” V says. For her, this is not a mere challenge of dressmaking technicalities but a matter of principle: how to design a formal garment for a casual man. So she turned to her biggest selling point—heritage. Balik Batik’s pieces feature handwoven fabrics sourced from local, often indigenous, artisan weavers.

She adds, “For our modern barongs, we actually integrate two old traditions, and this bringing together of old traditions creates something new. Specifically, we create barongs with handwoven fabric. Filipinos have worn Barongs for many years now, and our indigenous weaves have been around for just as long, if not longer. Bringing these two together creates a unique look that follows the traditional barong's form and aesthetic that is made with piña, but integrates a vibrant colourful weave.”

More than a brand, Balik Batik is a social enterprise promoting the unique craftsmanship of native weavers and merging it with contemporary styles.

"Filipino handwoven fabrics are very diverse, and it continues to evolve even up to now. It's amazing to show this diversity to more people," V says.

See also: Liwayway, La Herminia, Filip + Inna, and More: Local Brands That Champion Filipino Weaving Heritage

For Happy Andrada-Gras, designer of a self-titled label "Happy Andrada," her reimagination of the barong started at a young age. 

"When I was a kid, I really liked how [the barong] looked, but it was always just worn by my male cousins or my Titos. For me, it looked cool on them, but I imagined how it would look on me, a girl. So I decided to come up with something more… gender fluid, I guess. Something for everybody, for all shapes of sizes, it's something that people could actually wear, like whatever background or who you are," she says.

Happy did not just design a barong for women; she dared bring barong into places it has never been and craft it into shapes it never was before.

"I created a barong crop top and then barong bomber jacket. They [are worn] for different events, like for weddings or even daily wear. Some people wear it with shorts and stuff. It's cool that it's more modern and versatile now. And there's quite a demand for it," Happy tells Tatler. There's a palpable sense of femininity in her creations, evidenced by how she makes unconventional fabrics hug the womanly silhouette and in the wanton choices of appliqués and cut-outs.

See also: A Quick History of the Filipiniana, Also Known as the 'Maria Clara' Gown

Beyond a trend

Barong is a piece of the nation's history that transcends fashion seasons. These five designers agree that barong tagalog will always be in fashion. "The barong tagalog reflects our heritage that represents our culture. an example of a slow fashion and sustainable piece. It takes time to finish, is made from natural fibres and is an art piece that you can pass on to the next generation," says Kelvin.

RJ agrees, "The history of the barong makes it a very special fashion piece. We can have a lot of new trends and fabrics every season, but the barong will withstand them, and it will always be special."

"Even though we designers still tweak the cut and design of the traditional barong, the essence of wearing the barong is still there. It is part of our history, and we designers hope that if the near future, the younger generation will still appreciate the art of wearing a barong," Tong echoes the sentiment.

"When I joined fashion week abroad or showcased my creations in other places, they went up close to me and asked what's the fabric. So I explained it's a fabric woven in the Philippines, it's our traditional wear, and they're amazed by the fabric itself, how it's crafted, and the back story. It makes [the barong] really distinct, and I guess it's a good way to showcase our culture," Happy says.

V adds, "Fashion is visible, tangible, and a statement that anyone can make. Fashion helps preserve our culture and heritage because it is not only representative of the present, it also allows us a peek into the past."

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