Journey through time: Japan’s Nakasendo Trail

We received a booklet to enjoy a self-guided trek when we arrived at the first ryokan [traditional inn] on the route. For the entire week, our only task would be to read it and walk up to 25km a day; everything else would be taken care of. Our luggage would follow us separately, and we would take our dinners and breakfasts at each ryokan.

Reaching each night’s destination while admiring the natural beauty around us and embracing the experience was a daily achievement at our own pace. In a world where we constantly plan, schedule, and juggle multiple tasks, this simplicity was undoubtedly one of the most liberating parts of the experience.

As we journeyed along the Nakasendo Trail, we passed through enchanting post towns—mailing outposts crucial in the pre-telegraph era for getting information to and from the capital—that felt like stepping back in time, with Magome and Tsumago being among the highlights. These quaint settlements, nestled in the rugged beauty of the Japanese mountains, exude a timeless charm with their traditional wooden buildings and cobblestone-paved streets.

Each of these small communities offered a glimpse into Japan’s rich history and culture thanks to their well-preserved inns, tea houses, and shops specialising in traditional crafts lining the streets. It was mesmerising to wander through these historic towns, imagining the travellers and traders who once made their way down this same road centuries ago.

Getting the full Nakasendo experience

Every day on this trail was punctuated by different sights, sounds and experiences. We frequently paused to admire the infinite beauty of nature, listening to the gentle sounds of the forest, the flowing streams, the powerful roar of rivers after the rain, and the sight of snowcapped mountains.

Often, we found ourselves entirely alone on the trail, hours passing without encountering another soul. There were no human figures in sight in this serene solitude, and—thankfully—no bears either. But we weren’t afraid of potential encounters as, periodically, we would come across bells that trail walkers need to ring (vigorously and enthusiastically) to scare off any bruins lurking nearby.

More from Tatler: Symphony of Wanderlust: Embracing the essence of 2024 in Paris and the Alps

Despite this seeming seclusion, we felt safe and calm. The allure of nature enveloped us—the various shades of green, the ethereal mist lingering in the morning air, the breathtaking sight of sakura in bloom even late in the season.

We even joyfully embraced rainy days as nature looked more intense and beautiful behind a veil of rain and mist. We also learned that walking in the forest after the rain has real benefits, so if it happens, be sure to be properly attired so that you might fully enjoy it.

At the end of every day on the trail, we would go to different ryokan for an overnight stay that gave us an immersive experience of the Japanese way of life. Our exceptionally welcoming hosts encouraged us to relax in the onsen [therapeutic hot springs], taught us how to wear kimonos for dinner, and served feasts of home-cooked, regional cuisine.

We eventually got used to sleeping on futons set up in tatami [straw mat]-lined floors, surrounded only by shoji [sliding paper screens], and enjoyed our meals sitting cross-legged at chabudai [low dining tables].

This simple yet profound experience was a delightful journey into the heart of Japanese culture, making each moment on the trail exceptionally memorable.

Going beyond one’s comfort zone

Once you have fully immersed yourself in the experiences you encounter on the Nakasendo Trail, you realise that this journey is more than just a hike. Indeed, it’s an epic adventure that pushes you beyond your comfort zone.

However, after several nights of sleeping on futons, you will eventually find yourself longing for your bed and the privacy of your bathroom. The simplicity of trail life has you hunting down little villages for that elusive cup of coffee or a particular food you crave.

Despite our adventurous spirits, even Susanne and I found ourselves staring at our daily breakfast of fish, rice, and green tea after a few days. We’d exchange a giggle, reading each other’s minds, secretly longing for a good cup of coffee and a piece of bread.

As we met along the trail or gathered for dinner with fellow hikers, the conversation often turned to the theme of stepping beyond our comforts. Embracing the unknown and immersing ourselves in this unforgettable experience became a common topic among our hiking group. We all agreed wholeheartedly: trading our comforts for the beauty of the trail, the liberating sensation of simplifying our lives, and the profound connection with nature was a worthy exchange.

There was a unanimous joy whenever we stumbled upon a quaint coffee place along the trail or shared a glass of sake at dinner to celebrate our small daily victories. Each night, as we retired, we sank into a deep, restful sleep, surrounded by the tranquil silence of nature.

Revealing the essence of happiness on the road

“Simplicity is the essence of happiness,” Dominique Loreau wrote in her book L’art de la Simplicité, a gift my father gave me years ago. This quote particularly resonated with me as I experienced the trail in Japan.

This journey, blending physical challenge with cultural immersion, profoundly reminded me of the joy found in simplicity and the beauty of patiently awaited experiences. The Nakasendo Trail was not just a hike but a journey through time, a walk through history, and a deeply personal adventure etched in my memory forever.

Having hiked my entire life, this experience felt like no other. Immersing myself in a beautiful culture where many things were out of my comfort zone was transformative. Everything was different, deeply rooted in traditions that were new to us.

As we reached Tokyo at the end of the trail, the density and immensity of the big city was palpable. While the convenience of a cup of coffee at each corner was welcome, holding that precious cup, I found myself longing for a cold, foggy morning, my eyes deep in the mountain views, and the soothing sounds of nature.

Yet that wasn’t the end: it was the start of a new dream—a longing I’ll nurture for a while until the next adventure unfolds.

Special thanks

A very special thank you goes out to my dear and long-time friend Susanne, who eagerly boarded a plane from Zurich, Switzerland, to embark on this incredible Japanese adventure by my side. Our journey along the trail was a celebration of our enduring friendship. As we traversed the trail, surrounded by the awe-inspiring beauty of nature, we felt immensely grateful for the lives we lead and the opportunity to share this unforgettable experience in Japan.

I’d also like to extend a special thank you to the remarkable individuals from Hong Kong, Australia, and Canada who shared our mutual passion for nature and hiking. It was a joy to connect with kindred spirits, exchanging stories and laughter over feasts that seemed to span continents. Together, we revelled in the therapeutic embrace of shinrin-ryoku [forest bathing] and exchanged dreams of future trails around the globe, each now etched into our own bucket list.

Travel tips

To embark on your own Nakasendo adventure, consider booking a package through Walk Japan. Our self-guided tour included overnight stays, breakfasts and dinners, seamless luggage transportation to the next inn, and a comprehensive printed guide offering trail instructions, cultural insights, and recommendations for places to visit. Recommendations for alternate routes and convenient yet equally scenic forms of transportation are likewise available for those who may find themselves challenged by the hectic trek.

For more travel inspirations, visit portoro-interior.com

NOW READ

Aman Tokyo is a tranquil sanctuary in the heart of a city that never sleeps

Nagatcho Ohka: A multi-sensory culinary experience

6 Lessons on intentional design, sustainability and mindful living to learn from Japan