Cover Christmas lights at Place Vendôme

Amidst the whirlwind of yet another happily bustling holiday season in Manila, I found myself navigating the delicate dance of preparing for our European trip while tending to my client’s last-minute orders, ensuring that each gift was swaddled in festive wrapping and reached its destination in time for the most sacred season of all: Christmas.

Amidst the whirlwind of yet another happily bustling holiday season in Manila, I found myself navigating the delicate dance of preparing for our European trip while tending to my clients’ last-minute orders, ensuring that each gift was swaddled in festive wrapping and reached its destination in time for the most sacred season of all: Christmas.

On a cold winter day, my husband and I landed in Paris. That chill instantly drew me closer to the crisp winters of my childhood home in Switzerland.

During our first days in Paris, which we consider to be our second home, we opted to have a few quiet days, essentially permitting ourselves to immerse in the majesty of Paris at our own unhurried pace.

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Above Christmas décor at Place Vendôme

We found solace in the city's quiet corners—the charming book shops where we bought gifts for family and friends, the timeless elegance of the Luxembourg Gardens and the artistic energy of Le Marais.

In the weeks immediately preceding Christmas, the enchantment of the City of Lights reached its peak. Adorned with fresh pine trees, the upscale shopping streets were transformed into winter wonderlands as glittering lights illuminated the elegant houses and historic landmarks.

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Above The author
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Above Salon Proust at the Ritz Hotel

Within the grand eminence of the iconic Ritz hotel, a gem awaited us—the Salon Proust. What better way to nestle with a compelling book or magazine after a brisk, wintry stroll by a crackling fireplace? The ambience was a spectacle—my fingers caressed the opulence of the fabric on the chairs, a tactile dance with beauty. To be served with silverware and delicate porcelain is a wondrous affair. Pastries stand in meticulous formation, and a fragrant symphony of flowers adorns the room; it is nothing short of majestic—a little cocoon of luxury where one can withdraw from the world's clamour.

Alternatively, the room transforms into a Champagne Bar post 6pm for those inclined to toast the season with effervescence. Just make sure to reserve.

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Above Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection
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Above Musée d’Orsay, a former train station
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Above Restaurant of the Musée d’Orsay
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Above Musée Carnavalet

For art lovers, the city blooms with art exhibits. From the Musée d’ Orsay, with the richest collection of impressionist and post-impressionist paintings, to the Musée Carnavalet, a time-honoured narrative of the city’s essence, and the Bourse de Commerce, designed by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando, a must-see for those, like myself, being passionate about architecture.

This season, we secured tickets to symphonies that echo through historic churches, where Vivaldi’s Four Seasons and Ave Maria intertwine with the sacred. Dressing up for the opera or witnessing the grace of a classical ballet is a great shared moment.

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Above Godaille Restaurant

During these days, we revisit some of our favourite restaurants, like the historic Bofinger in Le Marais, a Parisian brasserie with nineteenth-century mirrored wood panels and elliptical coloured glass skylights. Here, the essence of French gastronomy is savoured: we especially favour their exquisite seafood.

Yet, our explorations extend beyond the familiar, seeking novelties like the recently unveiled Godaille Restaurant (12th arr.). Here, seasonal produce takes centre stage in a vibrant interior. The excellent dining experience is harmonised by natural and organic wines that grace their curated selection.

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Above Godaille Restaurant

For a winter’s warmth, there’s nothing like the soothing borscht soup at La Maison du Caviar. Established in 1956, this iconic institution evokes Parisian splendour from the ’30s, ’50s, and ’70s. The atmosphere exudes both festivity and intimacy with soft benches, thick carpets, gilded accents, and frescoes. Should dinner not be your quest, do not miss the pleasure of indulging in its sumptuous cocktails at the elegant bar.

Time flies, and before we know it, we’re bundling warm clothes and gifts for the next destination. After a swift 4-hour journey aboard the TGV (fast train), we arrived in Zurich, Switzerland, a few days before Christmas. Immense joy filled my heart as I wandered through familiar streets and cherished places.

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Above Winter decor in Zurich
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Above Christmas market in Zurich

This Christmas holds a special place in my heart. I've been dedicated to my PORTORO Interior shop for almost four years, ensuring I'm always there for my clients. Finally, I find myself back home for Christmas Day, surrounded by the warmth of family and dear friends.

Adorned in festive splendour, Zurich hosts one of my cherished Christmas markets on the Bürkliplatz. The food stalls with exceptional specialities make the choosing what to savour a true challenge.

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Above Cheese fondue in the Swiss alps

Throughout the town, pop-up chalets stand on every square, inviting moments for sharing fondue and raclette with loved ones. For me, no place encapsulates the Christmas spirit more than my homeland. The Alps wear a snowy blanket, the fragrance of fresh pine lingers, and the cold, though present, is embraced with a comforting cup of Glühwein (mulled wine). Carols, choirs, and music weave into the tapestry of this particular season, adding to the magic that defines this time of the year.

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Above Typical house in Engadin
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Above Enjoying the winter in St Moritz

While in Zurich, don’t miss a good breakfast or lunch at Sprüngli on the iconic Paradeplatz. Amidst the holiday enchantment, Sprüngli unveils exquisitely packaged gift boxes of their finest chocolates and confections—a perfect gift to carry home. A quick visit to Teuscher for their world-renowned Champagne Truffles is a must, too.

Days later, beneath the vast canvas of the Alps, we embark on a journey by car. Along the way, consider a detour to the majestic mountain realms, with St Moritz, a personal favourite, gracing the route. Its frozen lakes, embraced by traditional villages and adorned with remarkable restaurants, evoke a timeless allure. Despite traversing this route countless times and being Swiss, nature in this part of the world never fails to impress me. A breathtaking place that unfailingly grounds me with each return.

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Above Lago Maggiore

Once we crossed the Alps, we were greeted by the sunshine and much milder temperatures—a heartfelt greeting for those arriving from tropical countries.

The season is perfect for strolling along the Lago Maggiore and Lago di Lugano shores. Indulge in local delights like polenta (a dense cornmeal porridge) and funghi (mushrooms.) Also, be sure to taste the regional panettone should it find its way into your hands. While in Ticino (the Italian part of Switzerland,) have a taste of the local Merlot. The wines produced from Merlot grapes in this region are highly-regarded. Produced in limited quantities, these are rarely exported.

The Christmas Days find refuge in my family’s home, where French, Italian, and German cultures converge into cherished traditions. Books, offered as tokens of love, find solace in the season’s unhurried rhythm. As the world slows down, we bask in the beauty of nature, inhale the crisp air, and cherish moments with our loved ones, embracing the present.

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Above Panettone

Before we even realise it, we find ourselves bidding goodbye to my beautiful homeland, carrying hearts full of memories as we return to Paris.

In the twilight before New Year’s Eve, Parisian markets are laden with various French delicacies. Oysters glisten in myriad varieties, while shrimps, crabs, and lobsters hold court in majestic displays alongside a glorious parade of cheeses. Conversations linger over foie gras, caviar, and the perfect Champagne to grace the occasion. A pilgrimage to the food markets around Paris becomes a sensory feast, a celebration for the soul.

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Above Fresh market in Paris
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Above Cheese selection

Starlit hotels, quaint brasseries, and local gems unfurl their festive menus. Along the Champs Elysées, preparations unfold for a night steeped in revelry. Paris readies itself to illuminate the skies with the brilliance of fireworks, and the anticipation is palpable in the air.

In its grandeur, Paris hosts one of the world's most magnificent celebrations. Whether amid a million revellers or within an intimate circle, both unfold in the City of Lights, where unity blossoms with the countdown and the magic of fireworks.

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Above Fresh seafood

I meander through the Parisian streets during the inaugural weeks of the New Year, cloaked in layers to ward off the winter chill. I ask myself why Paris holds such a unique and eternal allure. A question often posed to me about the ideal time to visit this city. Suddenly, the epiphany crystallises—there is no specific season or moment. In its perennial splendour, Paris is an ever-present marvel, eternally enchanting and ceaselessly special. Each step carries a sense of discovery, and every corner turned reveals another facet of this captivating city, leaving an indelible mark on the heart.

Paris is a haven where we learn to cradle moments within, whether through the melody of violins within the sanctity of a church, a simple piece of baguette with salted butter, a perfectly crafted cocktail in the subdued ambience of a chic hotel bar, or even a midnight kiss exchanged on a bridge. These are the dreams we yearn to revisit, the echoes we yearn to return to each and every time.

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Above Fresh produce in Paris

And for those inquiring about the journey, I would weave a tale of ineffable alchemy, where nature's grandeur of Switzerland intertwines with the soul's replenishment in Paris.

Together, they form an unparalleled harmony—a poetic duet where Paris nurtures the intellect, and Switzerland cradles the essence of health. As the curtain rises in 2024, this journey becomes a perfect prelude to a year destined for inspiration, well-being, and the harmonious dance of the soul.

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Credits

Images: Nathalie Küpfer Henares