Cover The Kumiko Room of Nagatacho Ohka
The Kumiko Room of Nagatacho Ohka
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Driving around the streets of Nagatacho, one cannot help but feel an aura of reverence. It is Tokyo’s political district. As the site of both the National Diet and the Prime Minister’s residence, the very name Nagatacho connotes grandeur and prestige.
A stone’s throw away from these halls of power, however, lies another bastion of excellence. Nagatacho Ohka concerns itself not with statecraft but with the culinary arts. The restaurant opened in 2023, but its façade has a much longer history. Previously, the over 100-year-old building was home to a soba house run by the family of famed director Akira Kurosawa. For generations, it catered to the discriminating tastes of the upper echelons of Japanese society. Under the stewardship of Christine Cunanan and her Japanese partners, that same uncompromising spirit continues to this day as Nagatacho Ohka serves only the best of what Japan and the world have to offer.
Above The passage from gate of Nagatacho Ohka
The passage from gate of Nagatacho Ohka
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Above The hallway into the restaurant
Above The exterior façade of Nagatacho Ohka
The hallway into the restaurant
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The Bar
Calling Nagatacho Ohka a restaurant does it a disservice. It is a meticulously curated experience. And as with many evenings of revelry, one must begin at the bar.
The intimate bar is well-tocked with the best Japanese and Scottish single malt whiskeys, as well as rare, allocated bourbons. The counter is made of hammered bronze, evoking the vats used during the distillation process. Bronze juxtaposed with aji stone quartz makes for a very strong backdrop to the liquor collection. It also boasts a record player dating back to the Seventies and with whopping 600 vinyl record collection of music from the ’70s to the ’90s. A truly chic retro space.
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Above The bar of Nagatacho Ohka
The bar of Nagatacho Ohka
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Above Atagonomatsu sparkling sake
Atagonomatsu sparkling sake
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The Chef’s Kitchen
With appetites sufficiently stimulated, one is ushered to the heart and soul of any restaurant. The chefs meticulously prepare each dish with precision and perfection before guests’ very eyes. This goes beyond theatricality, however. The concept is unique. In lieu of a premeditated fixed menu common to degustation or omakase, the chefs present guests with a selection of meat, seafood, and ingredients from which to build a menu. It is a truly collaborative effort as these culinary masters work to construct a bespoke experience for each diner.
My all-time favourites are the lobster pasta in which the spaghetti is rolled around the meat and scallops to form a turban-like structure, served with a sauce of lobster essence and wine; aburi (charcoal grilled) sashimi of black throat fish (nodoguro) and golden eye fish (kinmeida); sirloin from the award-winning Nakayama Ranch served in chunks. The dish is served with a bowl of organic egg and smoked maitake mushroom rice, very sukiyaki like; charcoal grilled tile fish in a clear soup; bite-size wagyu tonkatsu (from Kagoshima) sandwich chateaubriand style. The finest sandwich I have ever eaten! Deep-fried fugu or blowfish (one knows that chefs need a special license to prepare blowfish because of the poison that needs to be extracted from the fish before you eat it, or you will die). Have no fear, however, I have been to Nagatacho three times and have yet to perish.
Above The Chef's Kitchen: Stone counter, the same stone used in the Osaka Castle stone walls
The Chef's Kitchen: Stone counter, the same stone used in the Osaka Castle stone walls
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Ending the meal (before dessert) with a cold soba made of 80 per cent buckwheat is a perfect ending. The medley of original Japanese ice cream flavours like umeshu (Japanese liquor) shiso, Japanese cinnamon with bark, Japanese black sugar, etc. All so unique and refreshing to end your perfectly curated omakase meal.
In the event that you are still hungry, do ask for the special comfort food menu, where they will be happy to prepare additional dishes like wagyu spaghetti bolognese, sliders, and much more to your heart and stomach’s content.
Apart from the outstanding gastronomical experience, the attention to detail extends beyond the cuisine. The interior spaces are all very special and each private room has its own distinct theme. The lighting design is perfectly calibrated as a stage set would be.
Executive chef Takahiro Masuda’s crown jewels
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The Kumiko Room
This room is a tribute to the disappearing art of woodcarving called Kumiko. The refined lattice work that envelopes the top part of the walls all the way to the ceiling is constructed and assembled without glue, nails or dowels. The lattice panels stay in place from the tension between panels. Such beauty and precision at its best!
The Lacquer Room
Lacquer is a very special material that is limited in application to small objects largely due to its cost and required skill to ensure a perfectly smooth surface. Imagine this room with its fully lacquered dining table and ceilings. Notable, too, is the peacock engraved design on the lacquer dining table filled with gold powder. Directly above it, on the lacquer ceiling, is an even more powerful image of a gold phoenix. All symbols of good fortune and prosperity. It is luxe at the highest level.
Above The Kumiko Room
Above The Lacquer Room
The Kumiko Room
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The Washi Room
Inspired by the use of washi paper, the ceiling Washi Origami is an element that stands out as a dominant art form in the room, providing soft lighting. It is the brightest room in the house. The Japanese horse chestnut dining table from a 250-year-old tree is just stunning.
The Gold Room
The feel of this room is one fit for a Taipan. But only if the Taipan wishes to sit in a tatami. The room is laden with a lot of gold and black lacquer. The wall behind the head of the table is a painting of the moon in shimmering gold that makes for a dramatic backdrop for whoever sits at the head of the table. This gold moon symbolises joy and timelessness.
Above The Washi Room
The Washi Room
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Chefs, staff, and all guests are happy!
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Nagatacho Ohka is a study of the mastery of art and attention to detail. From the masterful chef Takahiro Masuda to the interiors by Yukio Hashimoto (Peninsula Tokyo and Conrad Osaka), one leaves not only with a full stomach but a sated gaze. I am ready to go back anytime.
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