Cover Khiva after dark. Photo: Timothy Go
Khiva after dark. Photo: Timothy Go
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Broadcast‑journalist‑turned‑hotelier Timothy Go, who co‑owns and runs Hotel Bankir Khiva, shares his love of Khiva, the ancient Silk Road city in Uzbekistan he now calls home
After decades in broadcasting, Timothy Go did something few might not have predicted from a journalist used to breaking news and packed schedules: he traded the pace of the newsroom for the serene rhythms of a centuries-old city along the Silk Road.
This move came, as he puts it, after a “midlife crisis” and a trip to Machu Picchu. “It took me about four days of flying to get there, and I spent all of eight hrs there and had to start my journey back home all because I only booked two weeks leave,” he recalls. It was in Cusco, a city in Peru, that the idea of working in travel first took root.
That seed grew years later, when he visited Uzbekistan for the first time. “I saw a lot of potential in the then-unknown destination. The country was majestic, and there were very few travelers around.” In 2018, Go arrived in Khiva and felt something shift. “The moment I stepped foot into the city it was deja vu, as cliche as it sounds. The narrow alleys, the buildings, homes all seemed so familiar to me. I spent the entire night roaming the streets, alone in the dark, and it was fascinating. I really connected with it.”
Today, Go co-runs Bankir Khiva, a boutique hotel housed in a property once owned by the grandfather of his business partner, Muhammadali. “[He] was the only banker during the USSR era. He was, as you can imagine, a prominent man known as Erkin Bankir or Erkin the Banker. There were no street names before, and this neighbourhood was known as the street where the banker lives.” Naming the hotel Bankir became a tribute not just to a man, but to a place and its people.
Seven years on, Go continues to be captivated by the city. “Life is simple out here, you enjoy what you have,” he enthuses. “ I enjoy watching the gorgeous sunrise, the beauty of the view from our hotel rooftop.” Below, he shares his personal guide to Khiva on what to see, eat, and experience in one of Uzbekistan’s most atmospheric cities.
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Above Timothy Go. Photo: Timothy Go
Timothy Go. Photo: Timothy Go
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When I want to impress first‑time visitors, I take them to …
Hotel Bankir Khiva’s rooftop at sunrise. The colours, the solitude, and the sound of the call to prayers from the distance can inspire tears of joy.
A nearby town worth travelling to is …
Yangiariq, home to generations of pottery and ceramic artisans. The humble village hosts a ceramic workshop where you can watch them at work, making ceramic wares the traditional way.
One thing you won’t find in a guidebook but should try is …
going for an evening walk in Itchan Kala, the walled inner town of Khiva. The entire old city feels like a step back in time, lit only by the moon and the stars. It is also 100 per cent safe here even when the lights are off.
Above Timothy Go recommends the rooftop of Hotel Bankir Khiva as one of the best spots for watching the sun rise. Photo: Timothy Go
Timothy Go recommends the rooftop of Hotel Bankir Khiva as one of the best spots for watching the sun rise. Photo: Timothy Go
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A local festival that shows Khiva at its most vibrant is …
the Lazgi International Dance Festival held every April, where some of the world’s greatest folk dance troupes showcase their skills in a week or so of dancing and music. There’s also the Melon Festival, typically held every August, where the fruit in various forms and shapes is showcased. There’s plenty of pageantry and merriment during the melon season.
A sweet treat that locals love is …
any orchard‑ripened organic summer fruit, especially honeydew, cantaloupe and watermelon at their peak during the warmer months.
A dish everyone visiting Khiva should try is …
shivit oshi—handmade dill pasta tossed in yoghurt and topped with a tomato meat sauce. This noodle dish is primarily found and eaten in Khiva.
Above Shivit Oshi, a dish largely only found in Khiva. Photo: Timothy Go
Shivit Oshi, a dish largely only found in Khiva. Photo: Timothy Go
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My favourite local café is …
Terrassa Cafe & Restaurant, for best views from inside the old city.
If you’re in Khiva for just 24 hours …
spend the day in the old city. Have tea in the afternoon and watch the world go by. During the tourist season in spring, there will be several performances during the day. You can enjoy a cultural show or two for free.
Above Hotel Bankir Khiva recently unveiled a new Sunrise wing. Photo: Timothy Go
Hotel Bankir Khiva recently unveiled a new Sunrise wing. Photo: Timothy Go
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The best way to meet interesting people is...
In Khiva and in fact all over Uzbekistan, locals are always ready to interact with tourists. In any of the touristy sites, there will be young people engaging you in conversation. Many of them want to practice the English they learned in school. The best part is this is all totally innocent and no one will scam you. This is how I met most of my friends in 2018. Just smile say hi, be friendly.
If you want to meet really interesting well-travelled folks, stay at Hotel Bankir Khiva, I have hosted many captains of industries, men and women in Forbes richest or most powerful list, directors of some of the world’s top museums, and plenty of Asian tycoons, some with private jets.
Above Timothy Go with his team and guests from Singapore. Photo: Timothy Go
Timothy Go with his team and guests from Singapore. Photo: Timothy Go
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For a beautiful view of the city, you have to go to...
There are several photogenic points. One of them is the 4th floor rooftop observation deck of Hotel Bankir Khiva. You can have a panoramic view of the old city, with all its minarets and domes.There are also other restaurants like Terrassa or Ayvan Palace where you can eat al fresco and enjoy the view from inside the city.
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Nafeesa Saini is the Features Editor at Tatler Singapore, where she shapes long-form stories on culture, business, philanthropy, wellness, and the people driving change in Asia. With a deep interest in storytelling that intersects meaningfully with identity and impact, she has profiled a diverse range of visionaries, from scientific pioneers in AI and health to creative trailblazers and literary minds.
Nafeesa’s writing includes cover stories and profiles that spotlight influential voices, alongside commentary on the trends reshaping our world.
Off the clock, Nafeesa unwinds with fiction, a good thrift hunt, and ‘brainrot’ TikTok scroll—while always keeping one eye on her next cultural getaway, usually to Indonesia.
