Cover Seasoned food and travel writer Jane Lawson
Seasoned food and travel writer Jane Lawson
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Seasoned food and travel writer—and self‑confessed Japanophile—Jane Lawson curates immersive travel experiences and customised itineraries through Zenbu Tours. Here, she shares some of her favourite places to eat, drink and stay at in Kyoto, Japan
A trip to Japan isn’t complete without a visit to Kyoto, the nation’s ancient capital, which continues to captivate travellers with its timeless charm and rich cultural heritage. This is exactly what happened to Australian ex-chef Jane Lawson when she first visited the Land of the Rising Sun over four decades ago, and she has been returning ever since to explore its ancient architecture, cultural landmarks and thriving food scene. In 2013, she founded Zenbu Travels where she curates tailored food and travel experiences to the different places in Japan—including the popular favourite, Kyoto. She clues us in on some of her favourite places to eat, drink and stay at when she’s in the city.
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Above Sashimi at Muroi
Sashimi at Muroi
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I fell in love with Kyoto because…
every time I arrive there, I feel a blanket of calm wrap around me in welcome. The city’s grounding energy, peace, beauty and intrigue inspire me on many levels, and it’s where I’m at my most creative.
I don’t feel like I’ve landed in Kyoto until…
I’ve stood on one of the bridges that lace up Kamogawa (Kamo River), taken a few deep breaths and gazed towards Kitayama—the northern mountains.
My go‑to places for souvenir and food shopping…
include Nishiki Market, which you must visit for its range of local foodstuffs such as Kyoto‑style tsukemono (pickles), freshly roasted houjicha, kyo‑yasai (local vegetables), wagashi (traditional tea sweets), miso and sake. If I’m shopping for fresh food for meals, I’ll usually go to a depachika (a food hall on the basement level of a department store) or Kyoto Yaoichi Honkan, a fantastic grocery store where you can buy fresh ingredients. The bakery within is excellent and there’s even a little farm on the roof with a coffee kiosk.
Above Nishiki market
Nishiki market
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My most memorable stay in Kyoto has been at…
Hyatt Regency Kyoto, which I’ve been staying at for the past 16 years. Another standout is Hachikan, a two‑storey ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn) nestled in a tranquil village in Ohara that is exclusively reserved for one party at a time (up to four guests) and offers a truly private experience. The stay includes exquisite kaiseki meals prepared by a chef from a renowned ryotei (a traditional Japanese restaurant) in Kyoto.
Some of the must‑visit attractions in Kyoto are…
the garden behind Heian Jingu (a shrine), one of my favourite places to wander and contemplate; the atmospheric slopes of Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, lined with traditional buildings, houses, shops and eateries; and Tetsugaku No Michi (the Philosopher’s Path), a willow and cherry tree‑lined path between Higashiyama’s Nanzenji and Ginkakuji temples. The last is a delightful walk any season, but is particularly beautiful (and busy) in spring, when the blossoms are out.
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Above A kaiseki meal at Hachikan
Above Wagyu beef at Hachikan
A kaiseki meal at Hachikan
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My must‑try restaurants in Kyoto are…
Moko for its contemporary Japanese‑French dishes, Muroi for a relaxed kaiseki dining experience, Cenci for its delectable Italian‑Japanese cuisine, and Lurra° for its cutting‑edge and creative Kyoto fare.
When I feel like having a drink in the city…
I have a negroni or two at Touzan Bar within Hyatt Regency Kyoto. I also visit Bar K6 for its precise barmanship and extensive whisky selection, as well as Cicon, located on the rooftop of Nohga Hotel Kiyomizu Kyoto.
The one dish that visitors shouldn’t miss in Kyoto is…
nama yuba, the skin that forms on top of fresh soya milk when it’s boiled. Several restaurants serve this near temple precincts, but you can make your own at your table at Gion Okuoka restaurant.
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Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.
