“Uncle-ing” in Seoul: The best restaurants, steakhouses and markets to visit, according to gourmand Uncle Lim Chiak

Uncles like me love our markets. Thus, a visit to Gwangjang market is a must when visiting Seoul. There’s no shortage of food options at Gwangjang market; it’s just a question of how much you can eat. Most tourists at Gwangjang Market will hover around the Gohyang Kalguksu stall by Mdm Cho Yon-soon, which was made popular by Netflix, but I was craving something more substantial. 

Eunseong specialises in Daegu Maeuntang (spicy fish stew), specifically a spicy codfish stew affectionately known to some as a “hangover” soup. At the front of the shop, a factory operation was in full swing—ajummas (middle-aged women) cleaning and preparing the fish, stacking fish parts into neat rows of steamboat pots, firing of each steamboat à la minute. The chatter of hungry uncles and aunties from within amidst  a string of loud orders being met by “ye”, drew me in. 

Once in, the experience was full-on. Before my seat could even warm up, an ajumma plonked the steamboat pot of  all things cod onto the burner. I realised I had given up any choice once I stepped into the diner–you get the spicy codfish stew or nothing. 

Watching the red-hued broth come to a boil, you’ll spot generous hunks of meat, sperm sac, and roe bubble under a green blanket of vegetables. This Daegu maeuntang was so good. The soup was hot and spicy, the white cod meat was fatty and juicy from the goodness of the stock, and the innards were most delicious. Help yourself to your choice of alcohol from the fridge, under the eagle eyes of the ajummas. I went with soju and felt my uncle street cred go up with my fellow Korean uncle diners. 

It’s definitely worth a visit if Gwangjang is part of your plan. Eunseong doesn’t take reservations, so be prepared to  queue or visit during off peak hours. It will be worth the while. 

Eunseong at Gwangjang Market
Address: 88, Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul

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Perhaps Born & Bred is no stranger to many. It has garnered a cult following, many famous people have visited, and I wouldn’t be the first to brag about it. It is a restaurant with many concepts, but the ultimate experience is found at Speak Easy, an extension of the restaurant located in its basement. Over 20 courses of Hanwoo beef, prepared in distinctive yet inventive ways to allow diners to appreciate the unique characteristics and flavours of top curated cuts. I am not sure if there is any restaurant quite like Born & Bred Speak Easy.

If you are like this uncle who prefers a better balance of beefiness over fat, Hanwoo will be perfect. Unfortunately, Hanwoo is not available in Singapore. So when you are in Korea, the no-shame, kiasu approach is to top up on Hanwoo. At Born & Bred Speak Easy, you do one better, having the privilege of tasting rare Hanwoo from female cows around 28 months old. And to top it all off, the hospitality at Born & Bred Speak Easy urges you to second helpings, because they know you can’t get it elsewhere. 

Seats are  highly coveted. Reservations can be challenging so do book early. I know of some foodies who specifically plan their visit to Seoul around this restaurant. The extensive menu may be daunting for those with a smaller appetite.  Instead, consider other concepts within the restaurant like the Butcher Lounge on the first floor or regular Hanwoo experiences on the other floors; reservations may be easier.

Born & Bred Speak Easy
Address: 2F, 1 Majang-ro 42-gil, Seongdong-gu, Seoul

For the next big thing, Onyva is a neo-bistro in Gangnam serving contemporary French-Korean cuisine. Symbolically, it represents a new wave of Korean chefs gaining considerable momentum by transforming food in South Korea. It made me feel young and hip just by drinking in the buzz of the trendy patrons,  complemented by an excellent wine list. 

Helmed by chef Park Jin Yong, who resembles a K-pop heartthrob, Onyva feels like a peephole into the youthful energy of the Korean psyche.  In Park’s  approach, you find a structure of French methods, but styled with the latest interpretation of Korean ingredients like Korean ginseng and kimchi to enhance the flavours. Onyva is a tasty example of the “Newtro (뉴트로)” wave in Korea, and it certainly hit the mark—food that was familiar yet unfamiliar, and appealing to both young and old.. 

The menu is never fixed at Onyva. Remember the name. I am quite certain we are going to hear more of it.  

Onyva
Address:15, Dosan-daero 75 gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul

Uncle needed comfort food and a good start to the day. Porridge always sounds good. Korean abalone porridge? Even better. Where to go? Seowonjuk at Myeongdong has the best abalone porridge. Not quite a hole in the wall, Seowonjuk has a good presence on social media, thanks to the second-generation family members that carried the torch. 

The abalone porridge at Seowonjuk isn’t your usual pale porridge, it has a deep satisfying shade of green and gold from the abalone liver, topped with a fan of abalone slices, seaweed, and a quivering egg yolk. Give it a good mix to enjoy a hearty combination of savoury and creamy sensations, as well as textures of crunchy Korean abalone. This was so good, the kind of breakfast you want to have to start the day. I couldn’t stop at just one, so I ordered the oyster mushroom porridge as well. You won’t regret this either.

There are also many Japanese that patronise Seowonjuk. From the queue down the basement steps, to the dining room, I was surrounded by the chirps of Japanese conversation from families and fellow Japanese uncles. Clearly, the ajummas have won over even the subtle Japanese palate. 

Be prepared to queue for this one, but the turnover is quick. Go early, enjoy a good breakfast to fuel up for your walk to central Myeondong for some shopping.

Seowonjuk
Address: 141, Toegye-ro, Jung-gu, Seoul

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The best kind of supper in Seoul often consists of Korean fried chicken (KFC) and beer. Where did I go? Did you guys watch Netflix’s series “Midnight Asia” episode on Seoul? There was a feature on ungteori tongdak, which translates to “absurd chicken”, a low-profile stalwart of Itaewon, where an elderly couple has been selling their homemade fried chicken which they have perfected since the 1980s. 

There is only fried chicken on the menu, and each order is  an entire chicken. Unlike the chickens we get in Singapore, the chickens I enjoyed in Seoul were less oily and juicier, even fresh from the fry. The recipe resulted in a delicious savoury crust, each bite demanded the next. 

Owner Mr Han may look weathered and stern as he carefully double-fries the chicken, or while he is pulling a Cass beer into a mug, but truth is, he is just shy.  As he wasn’t confident in English, he preferred to focus on frying the chicken pieces for our enjoyment, and he even obliged me with a smile and a photo. 

Ungteori Tongdak is a real gem. Skillfully fried chicken enjoyed with ice-cold draft beer in a nostalgic shop. It is popular  so expect long queues past midnight. It is a must visit to enjoy old school KFC.

Ungteori Tongdak
Address: 225-154 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul

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