Cover Left to right: the new guard of Hong Kong dining: chefs Chun Wah Leung of Racines, Mina Güçlüer of Belon, and Antonio Au of Ébauche
Left to right: the new guard of Hong Kong dining: chefs Chun Wah Leung of Racines, Mina Güçlüer of Belon, and Antonio Au of Ébauche
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As the archetype of the volatile, fire-breathing chef finally loses its lustre, three chefs are proving that the most compelling thing about the city’s dining scene is the emotional intelligence and heritage-driven intentionality behind the pass
For decades, the culinary world’s most pervasive myth was that brilliance required a baseline of brutality. The great chef was a figure defined by a calculated volatility, a person who traded in adrenaline and intimidation to achieve a fleeting, plate-bound perfection. But in Hong Kong, that myth is being dismantled in real-time. A quiet revolution is replacing the rigid, military-style brigade with a more collaborative model—one that views a chef’s well-being not as a luxury, but as a prerequisite for precision.
Leading this charge are a trio of rising talents who aren’t merely changing management styles; they are reconfiguring the kitchen as a sanctuary for storytelling and longevity. Success is no longer measured by how much a team can endure, but by the depth of the culture they build together.
See also: How Hong Kong and Macau’s top hotels, restaurants and bars are keeping the soul of hospitality alive
Mina Güçlüer, Belon
Above Mina Güçlüer prioritises clear, constructive communication over shouting
Mina Güçlüer prioritises clear, constructive communication over shouting
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At Belon, Mina Güçlüer manages the pass with a composure that mirrors the restaurant’s commitment to ingredient-driven, modern French cuisine. Born in Istanbul, the 29-year-old’s path was paved by her father, a concierge whose forty-year career was a masterclass in the art of hospitality. This upbringing instilled a reverence for the dining room as a “sacred” space for connection. “I wouldn’t say our kitchen is relaxed, but there is definitely more room for enjoyment,” Güçlüer notes. “As long as everything is running smoothly, there’s laughter, conversation and a sense of camaraderie.”
Above Foie gras with plum and eiswein at Belon
Foie gras with plum and eiswein at Belon
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For Güçlüer, the industry’s progression is measured by how a team handles the heat of service. Even when things go wrong, she prioritises collaborative exchange, believing that a focused, happy kitchen produces the most precise work. “It’s less about shouting and more about clear, constructive communication,” she says. “It’s about maintaining standards while creating an environment people want to be part of. At the end of the day, it comes down to having a happy team and a dining room full of happy guests.”
Belon
Address: 1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street, Soho, Central, Hong Kong
Chun Wah Leung, Racines
Above Chun Wah Leung leads through mentorship and team bonding
Chun Wah Leung leads through mentorship and team bonding
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For Chun Wah Leung, taking the helm at Racines, named after the French word for roots, is a culinary homecoming. Born in Strasbourg to Hong Kong restaurateurs, Leung spent years rising through the ranks of top kitchens in Europe before returning to his parents’ native city. His menu is a sophisticated bridge between these two worlds; a Kuruma prawn tartare, for instance, serves as a nod to the humble sesame prawn toast of his youth.
Above A meunière-style abalone dish at Racines
A meunière-style abalone dish at Racines
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Leung’s leadership style focuses on team bonding. He actively prioritises relationships outside the kitchen walls, believing that building a strong, united group is a functional necessity for fine dining. “Instead of ruling by fear, my focus is on mentorship—guiding my chefs and leading by example daily,” Leung explains. “It’s absolutely crucial to spend time with the team, away from the restaurant environment, to relax and decompress. A connected team translates directly onto the plate.” For him, the ultimate reward is the continuity of his family legacy: “Doing this brings my life full circle. My parents were restaurateurs, and now I am proudly doing the same thing in their hometown.”
Racines
Address: G/F, 22 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Antonio Au, Ébauche
Above Antonio Au is building a calmer, more relaxed environment
Antonio Au is building a calmer, more relaxed environment
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In Causeway Bay, Antonio Au—fondly known as Toni—is finding his voice at Ébauche. Having already navigated the rigorous world of elite kitchens, Au’s debut project is intentionally more fluid. Named for the French term for a “preliminary sketch”, the restaurant is a canvas for him to blend classical technique with “Asian flavour memories”—the tastes of a Hong Kong childhood spent learning to cook simple, honest dishes like the classic tomato and egg.
Above The kabu chicken liver truffle tart at Ébauche
The kabu chicken liver truffle tart at Ébauche
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Au is acutely aware that the intensity of the craft requires a sustainable environment. “I’ve worked in those old-school kitchens, and while they taught me my foundations, I want to create a different environment for my team—one that’s more relaxed, calm and built on constructive communication,” he says. “I’m only human, and I feel intense emotions too, but losing my temper won’t help the situation. It would only hurt team spirit and, in turn, affect the quality of the food we make.” His goal is a kitchen culture built on endurance: “I want us to make great food, treat each other well, and stay open—not just for a season, but for the long haul.”
Ébauche
Address: 18/F, Aura on Pennington, 66 Jardine’s Bazaar, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
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A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
