How Hong Kong and Macau’s top hotels, restaurants and bars are keeping the soul of hospitality alive

To watch Vicky Cheng discuss a dinner service is to witness a man focused on a specific sensory awareness. As the chef-owner of Wing, Tatler Best Restaurant of the Year 2026 in Hong Kong—as well as VEA, his Chinese-French fine dining flagship; casual western restaurant Medora; Liz & Tori, the gelato shop named after his daughters; K by Vicky Cheng in Bangkok; and his latest opening, Estuary in Macau—Cheng believes that while the plate is essential, the ultimate goal of hospitality is a physical sensation. In a city like Hong Kong—home to one of the world’s most discerning demographics—Cheng sees his guests’ high expectations as a natural product of their environment. “We are blessed with a lot of delicious food, but we’re also lucky to have efficiency,” he notes, acknowledging that in such a landscape, “good food is almost expected”. For Cheng, the true measure of a restaurant’s success lies in what he calls “temperatured hospitality”.

“It’s a warmth,” Cheng explains, “a feeling where you are noticed before you even raise a hand ... You should feel pampered from the moment you arrive until your experience concludes.” This philosophy is a deliberate pushback against a world that is becoming increasingly automated. While he acknowledges that AI is pushing the world forward, he remains a protector of the human element. “A robot would never be able to give you the feeling created by all those little things”, he says. “With the digital world ... we’re losing temperature. It’s getting colder. Only a human being with hospitality skills can deliver that warmth.”

Cheng is a self-described “old-fashioned guy” with a “classic” mind, a trait most evident in his refusal to let technology dictate his creative process or his team’s focus. He maintains a strict no-phone rule during meetings to ensure total engagement. “Nobody’s allowed to be on the phone,” he insists. “In my meetings, everybody only gets a printout ... My creative juices flow better that way.” He views the decline of handwriting as a loss for the culinary craft. “We’re losing pen and paper,” he laments. “There is something about writing things down that makes you remember them and makes you cherish that piece of paper even more. It’s like a chain reaction in the mind.”

Beyond the logistics of service, Cheng is also focused on shifting the narrative of the industry from labour to craft. He remembers a time when front-of-house roles were the height of cool and believes that for young talent to succeed, they must move beyond seeing the industry as merely labour-intensive. For Cheng, the goal is consistency—the ability to maintain a reputation through word-of-mouth every single night.

When asked about the most meaningful praise he has ever received, he doesn’t point to professional awards, but to a heart-to-heart talk with his daughters. “I strive every day, even though I’m not the best dad, I strive to be—every day,” he recalls telling them, only to be reassured by their response: “You are the best dad... and you are the best chef in the world.” He is, at the very least, the chef at the best restaurant in Hong Kong this year.

For Lorenzo Antinori, the co-founder of Hong Kong’s Bar of the Year 2026 Bar Leone, as well as Cuban-inspired Montana and Bar Leone Shanghai, the hospitality landscape of Hong Kong is defined by a deep sense of mutual respect that goes beyond individual success. He views the city’s professionals as a unified front, where every breakthrough contributes to a broader regional identity. “We are all here representing our venues but also Hong Kong,” Antinori explains. He credits the city with providing the platform for his ambitions, noting that this shared gratitude creates “a sense of pride which also ties our industry and community together”.

This communal spirit is increasingly vital as the trade confronts the encroachment of hyper-automation. While Antinori appreciates the operational benefits of technology, he remains an advocate for the irreplaceable nature of physical presence and social warmth. “The soul of our industry is founded on people,” he says, arguing that “the spirit of conviviality” is the fundamental element of any social outing. He believes the preservation of this human-centric approach is a formal duty, suggesting that “it’s our responsibility to protect this” through proactive leadership and legislative support for the workforce.

To sustain this craft, Antinori calls for a modernisation of how the industry treats its emerging talent. He acknowledges that the expectations of the workforce have shifted significantly, requiring a more empathetic and structured approach to management. “It’s about understanding that the new generations are different from the previous one,” he says, emphasising that the path to retention lies in “better welfare in our workplaces” and “mentorship programmes which include real future prospects”. He describes the most taxing part of his role as the constant effort to “manage and create a sustainable work environment” that can actually attract and keep dedicated individuals.

This internal focus on quality and care is what allows the region to set global benchmarks rather than simply following existing trends. Antinori observes a clear “move away from replicating western models in favour of localised, experience-driven” ones. By leaning into its own unique strengths, Asia is now generating its own momentum and “creating many and appealing opportunities” for growth. He remains a student of this regional excellence, admiring groups like Singapore’s Jigger and Pony, and Nutmeg & Clove for their ability to achieve international brand recognition while maintaining “charismatic talents”.

Antinori’s approach is guided by the simple instinct of “always acting with care and generosity”. He observes that in a high-speed world where interactions are becoming increasingly transactional, younger professionals often feel pressured to seek fast results rather than mastering the patient art of the craft. To counter this, he focuses on “the opportunity to build real relationships with our guests which are founded on trust, friendship and love for conviviality”. For Antinori, the ultimate measure of success is not found in speed or efficiency, but in the moment “when guests describe our venues as their home”.

In the glittering, high-stakes landscape of Macau, maintaining a position at the pinnacle of luxury requires far more than palatial architecture. For Linda Chen, the president, vice chairman and executive director of Wynn Macau, Limited, the secret to Wynn Palace being named Tatler Best Hotel of the Year in 2026 lies in what she says is an “invisible culture of excellence” that prioritises the soul of the experience over the scale of its surroundings.

“The high expectations of our guests from Hong Kong and Macau have been instrumental in driving this progress,” she says. “Their insistence on quality has pushed us to refine every detail, from dining experiences to bespoke cultural events that showcase Macau’s unique east-meets-west character. These high standards have become the foundation upon which we welcome visitors from around the world.”

The team at Wynn Palace do more than deliver world-class service—according to Chen, they are custodians of a philosophy built on empathy, attention to detail and pride. “Every interaction, whether a warm greeting or a subtle anticipation of a guest’s need, is delivered effortlessly,” she says. “We invest in cultivating a workplace where team members feel valued, respected and inspired to take ownership of the guest experience. That sense of pride translates into service that is consistently authentic and heartfelt. Guests may admire our floral carousels or Performance Lake, but what they remember most is the way our people make them feel—welcomed, respected and cared for.”

Chen adds that Macau isn’t merely absorbing ideas from abroad, it’s exporting its own innovations and cultural narratives to the world. In 2025, the group introduced Wynn Culture, a brand dedicated to presenting the beauty of China’s arts and culture to a global audience. “By curating exhibitions, performances and cultural showcases, we not only attract younger visitors to Macau but also inspire young professionals to see hospitality as a gateway to creativity, cultural exchange and global influence,” she says.

At the 2025 edition of the Macao International Art Biennale, Wynn Palace presented the world’s first large-scale immersive art exhibition featuring porcelain from Jingdezhen, Hello China, Hello Macao—The Odyssey of Jingdezhen Porcelain: A Heritage Voyage from Macao to the World. “This groundbreaking exhibition revealed the vital role Macau played as a nexus for the Maritime Silk Road in an innovative way by blending Chinese traditional culture with cutting-edge digital art,” says Chen.

The cultural exploration continues at Chef Tam’s Seasons—awarded Tatler Best Restaurant of the Year 2026—which draws inspiration from the traditional Chinese lunar calendar’s 24 solar terms. “By championing Chinese artistry, gastronomy and innovation,” Chen says, “we hope to play a role in re-shaping Macau as a destination where inspiration is at the heart of everything we do.” 

Ultimately, Chen’s vision for the future of Wynn Palace is to provide a “profound sense of belonging”, creating a space where the world’s most sophisticated travellers feel genuinely at home while discovering emotional indulgences that can only be found in Macau.

At Chef Tam’s Seasons in Wynn Palace—the recipient of the Tatler Best Restaurant of the Year 2026 in Macau—executive chef Tam Kwok-fung operates with a “service-first” mindset. With more than 30 years of culinary experience, Tam believes that the high expectations of the region’s diners are driven by a deep literacy of the craft. He notes that guests in Hong Kong and Macau “don’t just taste the food; they understand the technique, the timing and the meticulous details behind every dish.” For Tam, the presence of such an informed audience requires a level of engagement that he describes as “soul-to-soul hospitality”.

“The human element remains our most precious currency,” Tam explains. “While AI can optimise a kitchen and handle the efficiency, it cannot replace the warmth that shapes the experience. It cannot truly capture the essence of specialised techniques—such as wok hei, the ‘breath of the wok’; nor can it sense the subtle shifts in a guest’s mood throughout the dining experience.”

On how he would describe hospitality in Hong Kong and Macau, he says, “It’s a seamless blend of extreme efficiency ... We ensure that every detail is thoughtfully executed, and guests feel cared for at every touchpoint.” He believes this shared commitment is what secures the region’s global standing on a macroscopic level.

“We understand that we are not merely individual restaurants; we are building one singular reputation together,” Tam observes. “When one of us excels, it elevates our region’s standing as a global culinary capital.”

To the young talent entering the field, Tam advocates for a rejection of the fast-track mentality. “I fear we are losing patience—the willingness to spend years mastering the basics before seeking the spotlight,” he warns. “It is vital to build a solid foundation of techniques through experience and practice, alongside a deep understanding of the heritage behind the cuisines. Patience to absorb as much as possible before making our own statement through our craft is essential, and it’s a non-negotiable for me.”

Tam finds joy in the work in moments where tradition resonates with a modern audience in an unexpected way. “The best feedback is when a guest tells me that they never imagined Cantonese food could taste this way, or that my dishes present a fresh perspective on the cuisine overall,” he says. “It’s incredibly rewarding to be able to honour our heritage through my cooking while offering something that surprises and resonates with modern palates.”

For Tam, this resonance is part of a larger shift as the region’s technical and cultural depth gains a global stage. “More young, talented chefs in Asia are coming forward, and fine dining from Asia is receiving more recognition,” he says. “We are proud to showcase our capabilities to a worldwide audience.”

For Mark Lloyd, director of bars at Wynn Macau and Wynn Palace, Tatler Best Bar of the Year 2026 in Macau, the bar is a living map of global collaboration. While many at his level guard their techniques with professional secrecy, Lloyd has built his reputation on a different principle: a global programme of exchange embodied in his Unity menu. He views his role not as a solitary creator, but as a technical gatherer who compiles the best of the industry to elevate the Macau scene.

“My whole cocktail programme is a list of many people I have learnt from,” he admits. “I take, and proudly and loudly so, from every bar I visit and do a shift at. There is no shame in continuing to evolve and learn from your peers.” This open-source approach has allowed him to weave the influences of Asia’s most progressive bars into the fabric of Wing Lei Bar. He credits a diverse range of mentors—from Lopsang Lama at Sidecar in New Delhi to Jesse Vida and Gabriel Lowe from Cat Bite Club in Singapore—viewing these relationships as the fuel for his own innovation.

This commitment to global exchange is balanced by an appreciation for the unscripted, human moments that happen across the counter. Lloyd believes that the true weight of a bar experience is found in the narratives guests bring with them. “There is a quiet joy in hearing the stories that led a guest to our bar that evening; it allows us to move beyond formalities and create a connection that is personal, sincere and lasting,” he says.

For Lloyd, the craft is built on a steadfast adherence to the basics. When asked what he fears most for the industry, Lloyd points directly to the erosion of the classics. He cautions that while we are living in a “golden age of experimental creativity”, the bar world must remain grounded in its origins. “We must not forget that the classics are the roots that allow us to grow,” he says. “Without that fundamental understanding, the innovation loses its anchor.” It is this balance between respect for the old guard and a hunger for the new that allows him to deliver at what he calls “a higher altitude”.

Lloyd’s work is a tribute to the high-velocity energy of his home base. He does not believe that hospitality is a learnt behaviour in Macau, viewing it instead as a core component of the city’s identity. “In a tourism city like Macau, hospitality is not a choice; it is in the blood,” he says. “In Macau, we don’t just aim to serve—we strive to over-deliver.”

The best praise he’s ever received, he says, is “being called a champion for my region”, adding, “To take the Macau bar scene into uncharted territory is my greatest achievement … It is this relentless pursuit of the unforgettable that sets this region apart from anywhere else in the world.”

Media credits

Editor: Fontaine Cheng, Coco Marett
Creative Direction: Zoe Yau
Photography: Alexander Yeung
Styling: Anthony Tong
Set Design: Athena Leung
Grooming: Yucca Yu
Hair: Kit Li
Make-up: Jovy Chai
Production: Carlos Hui
Videography: Donald Fong, Chan Kin Kwan
Photo Assistants: Victor Tang, Ernest Cheng
Styling Assistants: Joey Wong, Samantha Lai
Set Design Assistants: Caster So, Heidi Ng, Yilee Chow
Production Assistant: Jove Tsin Li

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