Cover Swedish chef Bjorn Frantzén
Swedish chef Bjorn Frantzén
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The newly opened dining concept at Victoria Concert Hall serves comfort food like steak frites to caesar salad, with a side of theatrics
Parisian brasseries in the 1910s and 1930s were a sight to behold. Known for being the venue where artists, writers, and intellectuals gathered in the City of Light, these spaces often sported art deco-inspired interior designs with ornate mirrors and decorative lighting fixtures, and served classic French dishes with a side of showmanship—think flambé trolleys and personable tableside service.
“Wouldn’t it be nice to bring back this type of craftsmanship?” asked Swedish celebrity chef Bjorn Frantzén, the chef-owner of three-Michelin-starred Zén. The chef, who was in Singapore recently, also noted that this level of personable service is nowadays mostly confined to fine dining restaurants. That’s exactly what he wanted to revive at Brasserie Astoria, his more casual dining concept that opened its doors at the Victoria Concert Hall in July. It’s the first overseas offshoot of its sister restaurant in Stockholm, Sweden, which opened in 2021.
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Above Toast Astoria
Toast Astoria
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Frantzén also shared that Brasserie Astoria aims to bring back the “spirit of grand dining halls”, starting from the interior design. Working with Joyn Studio, the same agency which imagined the look of his other dining concepts in London, Bangkok and Dubai, the team created an elegant space that harked back to the design of Parisian brasseries that opened at the end of the Belle Epoque era (end of the 19th century), but with a touch of modernity. Thus, the structure’s neo classical elements such as double-height ceilings, Corinthian columns, and marble flooring were seamlessly blended with modern elements like the Bearbrick and gorilla figurines that decorate the space. They also incorporated dramatic lighting that casts a golden glow in the main dining room and bar area. When the sun sets, the lights are dimmed to create a cosier and more intimate atmosphere, while an upbeat music playlist curated by DNA director Stefan Gissberg keeps the overall vibe upbeat.
Helming the kitchen is Zén alum Emil Cecil Ess, who spent four months in its flagship outlet in Sweden to understand the intricacies of the food and tableside service. Working with the core culinary team, including Frantzén and Zén executive chef Tristin Farmer, they curated an extensive menu comprising Brasserie Astoria classics “designed to interact with our guests”. The signature Astoria Oscietra caviar, for example, is served over ice alongside parsnip waffles, crème fraîche and lime and browned butter, and the fun starts when diners assemble the ingredients atop the waffles. The classic caesar salad is tossed with parmesan cheese and pine nuts in front of guests, but Frantzén was quick to point out that it’s not just for “showmanship”. He explained that when the salad is done tableside, it’s “tastier” because the ingredients are fresh and at their best.
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Above Steak frites
Above Whisky-flambeed steak
Steak frites
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Mains are made for sharing, including the showstopper of Angus or Wagyu beef drizzled with whiskey and fired up tableside. It’s served with kampot and green pepper sauce, and a side of roasted potatoes glazed with blue cheese sauce.
When Frantzén opens new outlets overseas, he often works with the designer to incorporate elements that reflect its new home. Thus, a lavish bar was added in the middle of the dining room and diners are more than welcome to enjoy Asian- and Nordic-inspired tipples, wines and spirits. With delicious food, drinks and ambience combined, Frantzén hopes to take us back to the glory days of Parisian brasseries at Brasserie Astoria.
Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.
