Cover One of the dishes served at the Spanish restaurant Alma in Poblacion
One of the dishes served at the Spanish restaurant Alma in Poblacion
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Obliterated by typhoon Odette, this Spanish Siargao favourite helmed by Valencian chef Luis Martinez resurfaces in Poblacion, Makati
While Metro Manila diners might know chef Luis Martinez as the talent behind the modern Spanish cuisine at Terraza Martinez in BGC, the citizens of Siargao have long since adopted him as one of their culinary stars when he opened Restaurant Alma. He launched it in 2021, and while this was at the heart of the pandemic, the fervent patronage of the locals ensured its survival. Sadly, mother nature does not discriminate; Alma was one of the casualties of typhoon Odette when it hit December 2021.
Luckily, earlier that year, Luis met restauranteur couple Carlo and Jackie Lorenzana when they visited the island. “Alma was our first stop,” Jackie shared, and it seems clear, based on the incidents that followed, that their meal there made an impression. They opened Terraza Martinez with him on September 22, 2022, introducing Luis’s brand of Spanish soul food. Alma, after all, means “soul” in Spanish, and this chef draws heavily from his, demonstrating how his passion for food and cooking can easily make up for his lack of formal culinary training.
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Despite Terraza’s success here in Metro Manila, the goal has always been to reopen Alma in Siargao. With the Lorenzanas having to train their focus on their existing brands—both those just recovering from the pandemic’s aftermath as well as the ones they newly opened—that shared dream with chef Luis had to be put on the back burner. What got the ball rolling once again was when the Lorenzanas and Siago Beach Resort Siargao’s Maite Ortoll and Kris Garcia teamed up to revive Alma in Siargao, which is currently back in full operation.
But, as destiny would have it, a space in bustling Poblacion, Makati, became available and was too good to resist. Alma Poblacion, as Jackie imparted, was “a last-minute thing”, and so they decided to grab the opportunity as well. Chef Luis gives the second-floor location on the corner of Fermina and Enriquez Streets his nod of approval: “Just like Alma in Siargao, this Poblacion branch has no walk-ins. You have to seek us out when you want to dine with us.” The dining room is a departure from the typical brooding vibe which has become the neighbourhood signature. Instead, you walk into a bright and spacious dining area with tempered hues of the sun, sand, and sea—a true oasis in the midst of Makati’s party district.
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The menu here is not the same as it was in Siargao, but it remains to be what the chef and founder calls “simple food”. Cold tapas prep the palate with refreshing takes on roasted tomato tartare with white anchovies and flavorful smoked duck breast with capers, infused cherry tomatoes, and tuna mayonnaise. Their hot tapas of seared scallops with smoked chorizo butter and a black tempura barramundi with piquillo sauce and garlic muslin are perfect companions for the great cocktails they make at the bar. The team led by Jorge Joseph (beverage development) and Lester Conchas (beverage manager) offer a highly drinkable mezcal-based blood orange margarita and a sangria rioja enhanced with Boiron blackberry purée making its flavour profile more wine-forward and more compatible with food.
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The main dishes are a return to its island roots. The must-order crispy pork knuckle is accompanied by a liver sauce and pickled green mangoes which calls urgently for a heaping cup of hot rice. A crispy black sea bass is served with stir-fried vegetables in tomato and garlic sauce, adorned with thin slices of confit potatoes. For those looking for a grand centrepiece, the beef ribs and wild mushroom paella are bound to impress. Fall-off-the-bone tender meat paired with a perfectly cooked paella with just the right bite, filled with flavourful earthy mushrooms make for the ideal main plates.
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The selection of desserts is worth the calories, which may come as a surprise since chef Luis humbly admits that sweets are not his strong suit and that he does not employ a pastry chef. Still, the calamansi mille-feuille and the cheesecake are solid finishers with a soothing coffee. The roasted caramelised pumpkin is a Valencian classic that is worth a try, especially for those who like their desserts on the not-too-sweet side.
Like anything on “island time”, Alma’s comeback feels un-rushed and organic. Metro Manila diners now know chef Luis and the wonderful things he does in Terraza, so Alma feels like a welcome prequel to a well-developed storyline. Soon, Alma Siargao will once again reign on the island, but it is good to know that its soul is alive and well in its soon-to-open Poblacion outpost.
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
