Cover Jonathan Leon Lim, founder of Bray Bakery

Find out what goes on behind the scenes of a bakery

Glistening slices of onions and fermented apples are gently folded into pillowy dough. Silky egg custard is drizzled into flaky tart shells while a fragrant curry mix is wrapped within the pastry. Thin layers of rich butter, 16 to be exact, and dough are laminated, resulting in croissant dough. This is sliced into elongated triangles that then get rolled up into small, compact pastries. After proofing, the curvaceous crescents swell and puff up.

“There is an ideal jiggle to a proofed croissant,” laughs Jonathan Leon Lim, the founder of Bray Bakery, who talks us through the bakers’ tight schedule each day. Timing is of the essence, as an over-proofed pastry is as unwanted as an under-proofed one.

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Unbaked pastries sit, stuffed with weird and wonderful fillings, waiting for their turn in the oven. Loaves of sourdough are swapped for laminated pastries in the oven in a choreographed routine.

Chomping on a slice of sourdough reveals a difference to other loaves I’ve tried, though I can’t immediately put my finger on the distinction. The crust is thinner and less tough on the gums, while the crumb is tender and pillowy. Large holes that are classical of other sourdough loaves are absent, resulting in an ideal surface for slathering spreads. In the case of this particular slice, fermented apples and tangy onions are scattered generously throughout; the sweetness of the fruit marries well with the pungency of the root vegetable.

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Above Bray bakery's sourdough loaves are suited to the local palate

“I aimed to make a loaf of sourdough suited to Malaysians, with a moist and soft interior,” reveals Lim. “I want to make a bread Malaysians love so much that they forgo their rice!” The loaves are not only suited to local palate but also to our humid climate. “From the hydration to the packaging, the bread is made to stay moist throughout the week.”

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Above Sourdough bread

Croissants are light and flaky, and upon the first bite, the crust crackles musically. “The butter layered in the croissants is made with a fermented seasoning to enhance the flavour,” Lim says. Made with a similar dough is the pain au chocolat, which bursts with a homemade chocolate mixture of four kinds of chocolate. Eaten alone, the smooth, buttery texture that coats one’s mouth is reminiscent of creamy chocolate truffles.

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Above Unbaked croissants being rolled

However, it is not only the composition and texture of loaves and pastries that Lim adapts to the local palate. Local flavours are also abundant in baked goods, of which there are many.

The sourdough curry puff sees a butter-based curry inspired by sous chef Sahlan Omar’s mother’s traditional recipe, enveloped in a crisp shell. Instead of the curry puff’s classical spiralled pastry, typically formed by layering water and oil dough, Bray Bakery’s version uses croissant dough, resulting in a flaky and light exterior.

The elderflower tart croissant is a spin on the beloved Chinese egg tart but shaped like a blooming flower with countless thin layers forming the shell. The crisp sheets form the ideal vessel for the decadent custard that lies within.

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Above Pain au chocolat being pulled out of the oven

Specials rotate on the menu often. Currently, the kaya croissant puff takes centre stage, which bursts with gula Melaka kaya made by commis chef Ian Quah. He tells me the recipe came from his late great-grandmother.

“While waiting for her daughters to get off school, my great grandmother sold curry laksa and coconut juice by the road, which resulted in excess coconut meat and santan to make kaya,” Quah explains. “The recipe was passed from my grandaunts to my mum, and now to me.”

Such stories are commonplace among the team of chefs and bakers here, who regularly explore new creations. The next time you come across an unusual pastry at Bray Bakery, just ask, and you might be regaled with another story.

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Imran Sulaiman

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