Cover Gen 根 (Photo: Gen 根)
Gen 根 (Photo: Gen 根)
1 / 1
We speak to Johnson Wong about why the island is home to some of the country’s most renowned restaurants and bars
When one considers Malaysia’s dining scene, it is impossible not to think of Penang. While the island may not be as sprawling as the Klang Valley, it is home to not just some of the country’s most iconic street food but also some of its most celebrated restaurants and bars. But why does this small city have such a unique gastronomic landscape?
Arguably, it is due to the community-driven and collaborative nature of establishments. Being such a small island, to draw tourists, chefs and bartenders realise that to push the scene forward they have to rely on mutual support—one famed location may not be enough to pull tourists to make a trip down, but a slew of eateries might.
Read more: KL Restaurant Week returns this October
As such, bars and restaurants are always willing to lend a helping hand. For instance, Backdoor Bodega often requests leftover oyster shells from Gen 根. “We use oysters in our menu and are more than happy to share our shells, which they use in cocktails,” shares Johnson Wong of Gen 根, Communal Table by Gen 根, and Wine Not. “This is commonplace between all establishments—with Wine Not having more natural wines and Restaurant au Jardin more champagnes, we are always happy to help when either of us is running low on stock.”
As the owner of three successful concepts, Wong is more than knowledgeable when it comes to what makes a restaurant thrive. Before opening Gen 根 in 2018, he worked abroad in Sydney, Dubai, and Paris before moving to Penang to head the kitchen at Macalister Mansion.
“At the time, Penang did not yet have many restaurants to work at, so I decided to open my own with a focus on local produce,” he says. Communal Table by Gen 根 followed in 2020 and the space above it was converted into Wine Not, a natural wine bar, in 2021.
“The movement in Penang is very much based around community, which is needed to sustain all our businesses,” he says. With a smaller proportion of local spending compared to bigger cities, he explains the tourist market still holds a large portion of business, whether local tourism from Kuala Lumpur, or international.
Post-pandemic, he travelled often to China, Thailand, and Singapore to increase awareness about Penang and Gen 根’s craft. Most recently, Wong and Su Kim Hock of Restaurant au Jardin showcased salted fish gulai, century egg, guava rojak, and Johor laksa at Nusara Bangkok’s 4th anniversary.
However, being a small city sometimes has its advantages—information is disseminated faster, while supplies and ingredients can also be shared with more ease. Hin Bus Depot, which houses Restaurant au Jardin, Backdoor Bodega, and Good Friends Club is just a five-minute walk away from Communal Table and Wine Not.
Don’t miss: Wind down after a long day at these wine bars
While the island has long been known for its local food, from char kuey teow and assam laksa to cendol, it has recently seen a slew of upmarket dining options and bars in the past 5 years. In 2023, the Backdoor Bodega team also organised Penang Cocktail Week, a celebration of the thriving bar scene. “You can’t do everything on your own, but creating momentum is what we want, and it helps everyone if the city’s dining scene grows,” Wong ends.
NOW READ
Where to eat and drink in Sri Hartamas
The couple behind Jung+Co are hosting supper clubs catered for the F&B industry
Topics
Best of Tatler Asia video highlights
Featured videos from around Tatler Asia: Get exclusive behind-the-scenes look at the interviews we do, the events we attend, the shoots we produce, and the incredibly important people who are part of our community
About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
