Cover Dan-dan Toyosu bonito, marrying the flavours of Japan and Hong Kong
Dan-dan Toyosu bonito, marrying the flavours of Japan and Hong Kong
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Chef Jorge Mendez draws inspiration from Thailand, Hong Kong, Vietnam, and other Asian countries for Mōdan MNL’s new menu—a first for the modern Japanese restaurant
Now 15 months since Mōdan first opened its doors, chef Jorge Mendez dares to venture beyond its neo-Japanese style—and does so with remarkable finesse. After all, the seasoned R&D expert is well-versed in a variety of cuisines. “With the first and second menu, we had to stick to Japanese ingredients,” Mendez explains. “I created this menu because I work as an R&D chef, so I encounter a lot of different techniques and cuisines. I think this is one of my strengths, and I wanted to play around with it.”
Unveiled on the 27th of January, Mōdan’s third menu, Global: Asian Leg draws inspiration from the chef’s travels throughout Asia. While each course is dedicated to a different country, the dishes remain anchored in Mōdan’s signature modern Japanese cuisine. The result is a cohesive, one-of-a-kind tasting menu, brimming with palpable excitement as Mendez broadens his culinary arsenal with the flavours of Thailand, Vietnam, Taiwan, and other neighbouring countries.
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Above The snacks course from Global: Asian Leg, Mōdan's third tasting menu
Above Tom yum chawanmushi, inspired by chef Jorge Mendez’s travels to Thailand
The snacks course from Global: Asian Leg, Mōdan's third tasting menu
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The eight-course degustation commences with a playful collection of snacks, each representing a layer of the earth: the crust, the mantle, and the outer and inner core. First, a gyoza in a crispy soba shell filled with tartare, black vinegar gel, grated beetroot, lumpfish, and gotu kola—an explosive bite that introduces the restaurant’s modern Japanese flair. The evening takes an unexpected turn with the uni cheesecake monaka, a sweet and decadent bite comprised of a monaka shell, cheesecake cream, and uni zabaglione. Next, a soy macaron with a luscious liver mousse sandwiched between ichigo (strawberry) film and wasabi, balancing the umami, gamey centre, and a plump gambero rosso ebi mochi with yuzu, sakura ebi powder, and tamarind sauce.
Our first stop on the Asian voyage is Thailand, one of Mendez’s favourite culinary destinations. We were each presented with our own chawanmushi cups filled with silky coconut custard, ama ebi, and crispy aromatics, and finished with a fragrant tom yum shirumono (dashi-based broth) elegantly poured at the table. Sour and herbaceous with a slight kick, the vibrant soup course sets the scene for the robust flavours of Hong Kong: meaty slices of firm, salt-cured bonito; a nutty and spicy dan-dan Toyosu foam; tart pops of raspberry; nira (chive) and layu oil for brightness and lift; and artful nori sugar corals for crunch.
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Above Tori guling: tsukune-stuffed debasaki with shoyuzuke egg yolk and Bumbu Bali sauce
Above Mōdan’s signature Japanese focaccia with miso wakame lawar and burnt coconut butter
Tori guling: tsukune-stuffed debasaki with shoyuzuke egg yolk and Bumbu Bali sauce
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It seems Mōdan’s signatures are not going anywhere, including the famed debasaki—this time smoked over binchotan and stuffed with juicy tsukune, a stark textural contrast against the crisp, glassy skin. Chicken wing in hand, we were tasked with mixing the accompanying shoyuzuke egg yolk, palm sugar, goji berries, and Bumbu Bali sauce, much like you would with a mortar and pestle when making the Indonesian curry paste. Their gyofun Japanese focaccia also makes a welcome reappearance, complete with miso wakame lawar and burnt coconut butter, inspired by Cambodia’s renowned coconuts.
Above Snow crab, cà ri sauce, nuoc cham pickled onions, aonori, and udon
Snow crab, cà ri sauce, nuoc cham pickled onions, aonori, and udon
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Just a hop and a skip over, we arrive at Vietnam, home to the heady cà ri sauce (Vietnamese curry), which chef Mendez utilises to coat a sweet, delicate snow crab claw. Served with nuoc cham pickled onions, a dusting of aonori, and a side of udon to toss into the mix, the layered noodle course transforms with every bite. Halfway through, the dish is even turned into bánh canh with the addition of a matcha bonito broth—a delightful, soothing bowl before the heaviest course of the evening, the don nabe.
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Above The Taiwan-inspired don nabe, adorned with unagi in youtiao batter
Above The don nabe comes complete with an assortment of tsukemono and A5 Wagyu gyu-katsu
The Taiwan-inspired don nabe, adorned with unagi in youtiao batter
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Speckled with ikura, negi tamago (omelette), namako (sea cucumber), cassava dango (chewy dumplings), and beef tendon, the sweet sausage shoyu rice is the third iteration of the family-style nabe pot course. Drawing inspiration from Taiwan, the don nabe is topped with delectable unagi, cleverly deep-fried in crispy youtiao (doughnut) batter, and a luxurious serving of buttery A5 Wagyu gyu-katsu from the Ibaraki prefecture. A colourful assortment tsukemono cuts through the rich, flavourful, dish, inviting scoop after scoop until you reach the toasted crust that lies beneath.
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Above Pandan castella, Hokkaido milk, yuzu gel, kaya custard, Nomad caviar
Above Hokkaido milk ice cream mochi with gula melaka kuromitso sauce
Pandan castella, Hokkaido milk, yuzu gel, kaya custard, Nomad caviar
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However, you’d be remiss not to leave room for dessert, as chef Mendez’s Singapore-inspired desserts are perhaps his strongest yet. First, a moist castella sponge cake infused with pandan and soaked in creamy Hokkaido milk, topped with yuzu gel, kaya custard, and a dollop of Nomad caviar—an unconventional callback to his previous desserts, once again providing fish roe’s rightful place in sweets, at least in the right hands. Meanwhile, the final bite of the degustation is sure to appease the child at heart, an indulgent marriage of Hokkaido milk ice cream mochi, gula melaka kuromitsu sauce, tua huay soy foam, and kinako (roasted soy) powder.
“This is just part one,” says chef Mendez, teasing what’s yet to come. “Part two will be inspired by travels to Mexico, the US, and other Western countries.” In the meantime, guests can experience Mōdan’s third menu, Global: Asian Leg, for the next four to five months as the team gears up for menu number four, as well as an all-new à la carte concept, Makanai, coming this 2024.
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About
Lauren’s love for food came much later in life than one would expect— an obsession awakened in the streets of Melbourne’s multicultural dining scene. Armed with this newfound passion, she returned to the Philippines determined to discover the best eats in her home country, with a personal advocacy to champion local cuisines and homegrown talent. Nothing is off-limits; if it’s delicious, it’s worth celebrating.
Work
As Tatler Dining associate editor, Lauren covers all things food and drink, from listing the latest openings in our monthly Dining Radar to interviewing chefs and bartenders about the biggest obstacles crippling the industry today. Beyond the digital space, she also organises Tatler Dining’s tentpole events, including Off Menu and Tatler Dining Kitchen, as well as the annual Tatler Best Philippines awards night and guide launch, detailing the best restaurants in the country.
For leads and event invites, contact her via lauren@tatlerphilippines.com or follow her on Instagram at @laurengolangco.
Photo: Ralph Mendo
