Inatô by JP Cruz, a new Filipino dining experience

Throughout service, it became very clear that they thought about the diner’s experience; the minutiae of service was fine-tuned to suit not just them but us. The attention to detail from tableware accoutrement, wiping of dishes, clearing the table between courses, and anticipating a diner’s needs was well choreographed–tried and tested. The refined, understated, yet obviously nuanced interiors and ambience heavily contributed and stayed true to the progression of their new Filipino cuisine narrative, too.

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“The space was wonderfully designed by Studio Ong, drawing from local items. For instance, our counter, along with our serving blocks, uses marble from Rizal—the serving blocks are actually unused trimmings from the marble there. Banana peels inspire our accent wall, and the shells of local oysters have been incorporated into the flooring. Counter seating has also been part of Filipino dining culture, with diners serving up tapsilog, pares, or even lomi (which we serve in Inatô). We simply refined that idea for the space, processes, and service style of Inatô,” he elaborated. 

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Albeit small, the menu is a strong showing of chef Cruz’s culinary prowess. The juxtaposition of a casual-looking menu, inspired by the mundane, against their fine dining execution and service style, plus a 90’s hip hop playlist to boot, all tucked away in an ultra-chic marble, wood, and texture-filled space leaves you pleasantly surprised and eager to return. “Charcoal grilling has deep roots in Filipino cooking, especially in rural areas, so we wanted to include that experience. Eating from a street-side barbecue stall is a communal experience,” Cruz notes, further emphasising how the group is re-envisioning and elevating Filipino food culture through the adaptation of the chef’s table and hyper-focused charcoal cookery. “We always wanted the music to counterbalance the feel of the space, easing guests in and making the space less intimidating. Hip-hop is very expressive and the 90’s were also a very experimental time for music, with the transition from analog to digital. Those characteristics, in a way, represent what we’re trying to do in Inatô, from how we want to express ourselves and how we play around with ingredients and flavours,” he adds. 

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From a juicy yellowtail kinilaw, a lightly grilled swordfish belly with shrimp head and butter sauce, or their young corn with atchara vinegar and mimolette cheese, their imaginative menu did not disappoint. With global influences and Filipino roots, Inatô is geared to take the modern Filipino food category towards a bright future. 

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