What exactly do bar consultants do?

Aside from operating his own bars— from Poblacion, Makati to NYC’s Lower East Side— the seasoned expert shares his knowledge with others who dream of opening their own.

Entrepreneur Lee Watson’s list of establishments truly cuts across time zones— from the “underground” club (it’s literally located in a basement parking lot) Nokal in Makati’s central business district; his Poblacion flagship The Spirits Library where Watson grooms his award-winning mixologists; and all the way to Gugu Room in New York City’s Lower East Side which serves craft cocktails alongside bulalo udon. These are just a few of an extensive list and while impressive, it’s Watson’s portfolio of consultancies which truly demonstrates how he has become a trusted name in the beverage industry.

When he was a young man in America, Watson worked in some of the more “serious” bars before coming back to Manila where he lived for a bit during his youth. He broke into the local scene in a big way when Solaire Resort and Casino hired him to be their beverage manager and was tasked with setting up their bar program. Even while working at Solaire, he was already taking on consultancies on the side during that transitory time in the industry when Filipinos were beginning to value the quality of their drink over quantity. His high-profile accounts include the Lanai Lounge at Antonio’s Tagaytay as well as their other outlets; Antonio’s in PGA Cars; almost all of the property’s beverage menus when Discovery Primea opened; Anya in Tagaytay; and the super club Cove in Okada, among others. He admits to enjoying resort projects like he did for Discovery Shores in Boracay; Bacau Bay in El Nido, Palawan; and Amarterra in Bali, Indonesia.

Above Slow Down Kiddo (Photo: courtesy of courtesy of The Spirits Library)

Slow Down Kiddo (Photo: courtesy of courtesy of The Spirits Library)

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The list goes on and it includes some of the most successful brands in F&B, although Watson admits to being more selective now. When he takes on a project, he partners with one of his bartenders at The Spirits Library to help with the set-up while Watson continues to be hands-on with his own establishments. Aside from consulting, they also now take on management contracts to handle bars owned by others.

Watson has truly become synonymous with the modern-day cocktail bar that focuses on premium quality ingredients and unique experiences. Here, he tells us exactly how he does that and gives us a small peek into his world.

Lee Watson - Nokal, The Spirits Library, Gugu Room

Above Photo: courtesy of The Spirits Library

Photo: courtesy of The Spirits Library

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As a beverage consultant, what are the expectations/requirements from you?

It really depends on the needs of the client. Some clients just want a signature cocktail menu. Some want training for their bartenders to improve service at their bars. Others want you to do everything related to the bar. I really try to understand what the client needs. A client comes to you because they are not an expert in your field, and therefore want to hire you for your expertise. Sometimes the client is not clear on their own needs, so you have to outline all the things which need to be done to achieve their goal. When someone approaches me about consulting, I always request a meeting. Ideally, I walk through the space, or look at renderings or a branding deck. I really need to understand the concept, and the people behind it.

One thing I try to recognise is that I’m making cocktails or a menu for that concept. It’s very easy for a consultant to make cocktails or drinks in his/her own style. But the cocktails should not be my cocktails. They should reflect the concept of the bar, and its owners.

Above Photo: courtesy of The Spirits Library

Photo: courtesy of The Spirits Library

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With the many establishments you have consulted for, how do you keep things fresh?

That can be challenging. As I’ve explained, you should always make drinks for that concept, and the people behind it. When I first started consulting, I got that comment from a few clients. In my view, I made very different cocktails for each client, but to some of the clients, the cocktails looked very similar.

One thing I do is utilise the ingredients already being used in the kitchen, especially the fresh produce. The advantage is that the kitchen has already sourced a consistent supply of these ingredients, so you don’t have to worry about them not being able to source the ingredients after you leave. Also, this helps the drinks match the food, customising the drinks to the concept. This works especially well when doing work at a restaurant.

Another thing I frequently do is utilise the creativity of the bartenders working at that bar. If I come up with all the ideas myself, then the cocktails are too much in my style. Instead, I like seeding ideas in the bartenders working there. As I train them, I will give them assignments. It can take longer to do it this way, but the results can be quite eye-opening. And when we’ve finalised the menu, I emphasise the cocktails are theirs. They created the cocktails, not me. This gives the bartenders a sense of ownership of the cocktails. They can better talk about the cocktails to guests, sell them [with confidence], and maintain quality after I’ve left.

Above Douhua (Photo: courtesy of The Spirits Library)

Douhua (Photo: courtesy of The Spirits Library)

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Is there a particular project that you are most fond of, or one that was really exciting to work on? Can you share that experience with us?

The Lanai Lounge at Antonios. It was the first bar I set up as a consultant, and still my favourite.

I was still working at Solaire at the time, a gruelling six days a week, twelve-plus hours a day. On my one day off, instead of getting rest and doing personal errands, I would wake up early and go to Tagaytay. I would request everything I needed ahead of time, and when I showed up they would have everything set up like a buffet at a big event. A few tables with white tablecloths, bottles of liquor neatly lined up, juices squeezed in glass carafes, tons of fresh produce, etc. I would get an idea, and they would run to the farm to grab more produce. Because of the garden concept, and the access to fresh produce from the farms, I utilised fresh herbs in almost all the cocktails. The cocktails are all very green and fresh.

The garden that was built is impeccably curated with trees, ferns, and other plants. The structures built were done in Antonio’s style with a lot of antiques and repurposed wood. A lot of curved/formed concrete, gas lanterns, and a little bit of whimsy. It looks beautiful day or night, in any weather. It is one of the most inspiring places I’ve worked and has allowed me to do some of my best creative work. And the team at Antonio’s has really made me feel like I’m part of the family.

Above Photo: courtesy of The Spirits Library

Photo: courtesy of The Spirits Library

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What are the current trends in the bar scene? Any particular one you wish will just go away?

One of the biggest trends I’m seeing now is low-ABV and no-ABV cocktails. The idea that you go to a bar to get drunk is so passé. Guests are increasingly looking for something that tastes good, instead of something that gives them a buzz. I feel this is in line with the “premiumisation” of the market. Guests might drink less, but they’ll spend more on better booze. Again, guests are looking for something that tastes good, not something that gets them drunk.

There is also an emphasis on presentation and showmanship, and cocktails that are more multi-sensory. Before you just wanted a cocktail that smelled good and tasted good. Now it really has to look good, and tickle some of the other senses.

In terms of spirits categories, both agave spirits and rum are very popular now. Now it’s become much more common for people to spend PhP 10,000 to PhP 30,000 on a bottle of tequila. Before, these price points were only touched by whiskey drinkers. Now, I have people coming to the bar asking which extra añejo tequilas we have. In addition to tequila, you have mezcal, with all its single varietal, single village, terroir-driven options. But even Mezcal is become old news for some of the serious agave geeks.

Rum is also a growing category. But, the kinds of rums becoming popular now are not the common mass-produced rums. Guests are looking for grassy Agricole-style rums made from fresh sugar cane juice (instead of molasses). They want full-flavored rums made in pot still or high-ester rums from Jamaica. The naturally fermented Clairins from Haiti are now the mezcals of the rum world. Locally in the Philippines, several new producers are getting into the rum game, inspired by the success of Don Papa.

What trend do I want to die? Laybacks! Laybacks used to be a special occasion thing, and then at some point, they became an everyday thing. That kind of reckless overconsumption is dangerous, and the peer pressure that comes with it is just not cool. I am a big believer in responsible drink service. I do allow an occasional layback at The Spirits Library, but it’s usually from the second floor so most of the booze ends up on the person’s face! (Laughs)

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Topics

Lee Watson Bar Industry Beverage Consultant Nokal The Spirits Library Gugu Room

Jaclyn Clemente Koppe

Contributor, Tatler Philippines

Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.

What exactly do bar consultants do? Tatler talks to Lee Watson