Best Bars - Photo: Ambutious Studio - Rick Barrett / Unsplash
Cover Photo: Ambitious Studio - Rick Barrett / Unsplash

With only one bar in Asia's 50 Best, and another in the 51-100 list, we ask David Ong (The Curator) and Volkan Ibil (The Back Room)—what makes a standout bar? How has the Philippine bar scene progressed, and how can we get further?

The annual Asia’s 50 Best Bars rankings remain a much-anticipated release across the region. Unveiled earlier this July, the top 50 ranking for 2023 featured The Curator as the only Philippine bar on the prestigious list, positioned at no. 34. Known for both its coffee and cocktails, the Legazpi Village haunt is no stranger to the award— this is the seventh year The Curator has appeared on the list since opening in 2016, and it has firmly held its position as the country’s best since 2017.

Meanwhile, The Back Room was recognised in this year’s 51-100 list at no. 75. Nestled within Shangri-La the Fort, Manila, the Prohibition-era inspired speakeasy first opened its doors in late 2018 and swiftly earned its place in Asia’s 50 Best Bars list the following year, again in 2020, then topped the inaugural 51-100 list in 2021.

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Evidently, The Curator and The Back Room remain among the best-known and most celebrated bars in the country. But what’s the key to their success? For David Ong, co-founder and managing partner at The Curator, it’s all about one thing: hospitality. “Usually, when you talk about bars, you try to be as objective about it as you can—how the place looks, the ambience, the menu, design, the music, and if you’re a bit more particular, what bottles they keep behind the bar,” Ong explains. “All that comes into play, but for us, it’s really about hospitality.” In fact, The Curator’s logo makes a clever, subtle reference to this principle. “If you rotate it one way, it’s a coffee cup; if you rotate it another way, it’s a coupe class; but if you look at it straight on, it’s an ampersand. Normally people think, Oh yes, it’s an ampersand because it’s coffee and cocktails, but what it really represents is adding value to the experience. What are we able to give our customers the second they walk through the door? It’s hospitality.”

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That’s not to say the cocktails are secondary, either. Despite the decadent interiors of The Back Room, beverage manager Volkan Ibil attests that beverage remains the rightful king. “As a mixologist, I let my guests decide if we are good or bad,” says Ibil. “A great mixologist can create beverages that look beautiful and taste delicious while captivating guests and making their moments extra fun and memorable.”

Beyond creating delicious drinks (and efficiently, at that), Ong emphasises the importance of recognising your guests’ needs. “Sometimes, you go to a bar and just want a simple G&T or a highball. Sometimes, you want to be left alone, sometimes you want company, or maybe you’re curious about what the bartenders are doing, so you sit at the bar to watch the show and ask questions. The bartender should tend to those questions, tend to those interests.”

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But there’s much more to bartending than everything the guest sees, including R&D. In large part, the drive to innovate, experiment, and think outside the box relies on support from ownership, too. “Aside from the drinks and ambience of the bar, it's all about empowering your bartenders to be happy, feel proud, and engage with the guest,” says Ibil. “If your bartenders are engaging, they can understand their guests’ preferred flavour profiles, pushing them to create innovative and bespoke drinks.” Likewise, Ong underscores the value of having bartender-driven bars. He explains, “Even if the owners are not bartenders, that’s okay—but you have to support the bartenders. Look at Southbank, for example. None of the owners are bartenders, but they have a very strong team in both Ortigas and Alabang because they laid a foundation with their bartender, Kevin Corrales to lead them.”

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While The Curator and The Back Room were the only two Philippine bars on Asia’s 50 Best Bars and 51-100 lists, both Ong and Ibil are confident about the growth of our beverage industry. Ong observes, “The bar scene has progressed, our palates are evolving—you not only see it with food, but with drinks as well. In the wake of the pandemic, there’s real revenge spending and we’re not taking life for granted anymore—that’s why we’re all travelling, eating and drinking well. It challenges us to up our game.” Similarly, Ibil observes “Manila’s cocktail and bar scene has been garnering recognition. Looking at the other emerging markets like Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, and Seoul, Manila is on par with the talent, skill and willingness to create cocktails.”

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Indeed, there is a wealth of homegrown talent giving rise to more exciting, quality bars. Beyond his own concepts, Southbank, The Back Room, and The Spirits Library are among Ong’s current favourites, while The Blind Pig continues to be his top pick. “I just love it there, I go there every week,” he shares. “You walk in there, you feel like you’ve been transported elsewhere and you’re no longer in the Philippines. They do the classics really well.” He also commends ReCraft and Bar Flora, saying “They’re really quality bars in the New Manila and Tomas Morato area, where previously there were none. They’re really changing the scene over there—they’re playful, the drinks are good and the hospitality as well.” Meanwhile, ITO Beverage Space is what Ong praises as the dark horse. “They’re doing something different, in that it’s all-day drinking with coffee, tea, and cocktails, but it’s also a tasting menu. Very young, very talented, with an eye for detail. They’re curious, and they’re hungry.”

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Optimistic about the future of the Philippine bar scene, Ibil hopes to see more “collaborations in organising events, holding cocktail masterclasses and cocktail festivals.” “Through this,” he expounds “we are empowering all local bartenders, drawing attention and awareness to the talent and creativity of Filipino bartenders.”

In a similar vein, Ong points to the importance of community. “I personally don’t like drinking in my own bars—the best way I feel I can support our industry is by going around other people’s bars. It’s the same for consumers: support everyone, support Flipino, support local; support people who are working hard and trying to make a dent in the industry. Everyone has their favourite bars, but it would be nice to see everyone everywhere. A rising tide lifts all boats.”

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