Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell
Cover Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell

Mecha Uma by Bruce Ricketts and The Moment Group may have said its goodbyes, but Ricketts is far from finished

The iconic Mecha Uma closed its doors on December 30, 2023, putting an end to what was quite the fruitful chapter in Bruce Ricketts’s culinary story thus far. It was at this illustrious establishment that he skyrocketed to fame for his extraordinary skill set and, to put it simply, obsession with his craft.

Ricketts has a keen ability to tell stories with his food. Through every dish served at Mecha Uma chef’s table experience, he painstakingly infused a part of himself through intense R&D, practice, and focus. Through the years, Ricketts and Mecha Uma gained loyal patrons and attention from foodies, both locally and globally.

He and his wife, Jae Pickrell, are now excitedly preparing to open a new restaurant called Iai, a name that comes from the word iaido: a form of Japanese martial arts that relies on awareness, and being able to quickly respond to attacks (a nod to chef Bruce Ricketts’s love affair with martial arts). “The restaurant is named after this because after years of self-training and study [at] Mecha, it’s time to turn a new page and completely exercise the skills and instincts I’ve acquired to develop my own style,” he explained. Iai will boldly reflect the couple’s deep love for Japan and will still maintain an intimate chef’s counter experience.

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Tatler Asia
Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell
Above Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell

For years, Ricketts has refined his talent and gained a wealth of knowledge, forging an intense connection to not only Japan’s food but its culture too. In fact, you may find it interesting to learn that this chef, now so known for his well-versed command of the cuisine, started as quite the novice when it came to Japan.

“We started [at Mecha Uma] with freestyle cooking, fueled by our imagination of what Japanese dishes could be because I had never been to Japan before Mecha opened. We had no set rules. We were just purely translating ideas that excited us while trying to keep our menu satisfying and comforting to our customers. We had this beautiful relationship with them that was almost unspoken. Until their next visit, I would remember where we left off with our last conversation. I would listen to where they’ve been and where they’ve travelled to, and size ourselves up to what they’ve eaten and improve or draw inspiration from what they share,” he divulged. 

It was this devotion to hospitality and respect for the consumer that refined Mecha Uma’s menus and heightened its attentive service style before his unique journey with Japan even began. The care and respect for the dining experience was palpable. 

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Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell
Above Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell

“As I travelled more with Jae, the crazy fantasies and imagination about unknown places came down to firsthand experience. I realised that with time and dedication to craftsmanship, I could improve my skills and present it as a new form of commitment to my customers. What used to be a hunger to constantly create something on the edge of a new idea and live off from it eventually became a quest to understand an ingredient beyond how it shows itself on the cutting board,” Ricketts remarked. 

From a deep dive into this country’s rich and delicious culinary world, he gained an unbreakable bond with its character. Learning from visiting markets, meeting producers, eating, and studying seasoned chefs formed his education. “I wanted to be able to treat [ingredients] and craft my own expression in the way many masters would, by letting the personality of the ingredients reveal themselves and show how they can be affected by their surroundings, just like people,” shared Ricketts. “I’d like to think that my cooking has gained clarity and more technical expertise. What was frenetic has become something that’s more focused,” the chef expressed. Without a doubt, we can confirm that these hopes became a reality. Through every meal at Mecha Uma, Ricketts bloomed, and strength by strength, the food he presented grew more nuanced as his produce-forward and flavour-focused approach turned heads.

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Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell
Above Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell

It was not an easy, unchallenging journey— it was quite the opposite. He and The Moment Group team were faced with hurdles when introducing the concept to the country. “We were the first chef’s counter offering omakase with a unique creative sensibility. We opened at a time when people had a very different idea of fine dining when tasting menus were not common, and sitting at a counter if you’re paying a high amount was looked down upon,” Ricketts reflects. Thankfully, the road was not all too lonely; with other rockstar peers in his midst, they navigated the tricky F&B landscape together, aiming to push the country forward and elevate the dining scene. “I was lucky to count among my close friends several chefs who pushed the envelope of upscale dining and the tasting-menu format, like Chele (Gallery by Chele) and Jordy (Toyo Eatery), and it was an exciting time for all of us to contribute to the local dining scene,” he revealed.  

It took a lot of work to change perspectives and steadfast opinions in the market, as what generally occurs when trying to enact change. “Until now, most Filipinos tend to think the best Japanese food should be cooked by a Japanese chef, especially when it comes to sushi. It’s the authenticity argument, that for Japanese food to be good, it has to be made by Japanese hands with ingredients from Japan. We’d like to think that Mecha Uma has done its role in breaking that stereotype,” Ricketts posited. “We’ll continue to at Iai, especially now that Filipinos have been getting more adventurous, and more exciting to feed. But our challenge is the same, to pay tribute to tradition and honour the product without compromising our style and identity,” he added. 

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Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell
Above Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell

On to Iai, a blank slate eager to be coloured by this chef’s creativity. Here, we will be treated to a more vulnerable expression of Bruce Ricketts, as he and Pickrell will reveal their inner workings and deepest passions. “Iai will be a continuation of where I left off from Mecha Uma. It’s where Jae and I can condense and share ideas and experiences we’ve learned from our love of Japan. It’s where I plan to focus on sushi and kappo craftsmanship, learn every day, and where I can practice the instinctive kind of cooking I’ve tried to do ever since,” he said with pride. 

At Iai, you will find an 8-seater chef’s table experience where he will continue his sushi omakase practice, plus several tables and a private room where you can try a shorter, more dynamic kappo-style menu. At the chef’s table, you can observe Ricketts and his team at work. Part of the chef’s counter allure for him is the opportunity to engage with diners and form meaningful connections to be internalised and remembered to make the experience more memorable. “Like Mecha, the best seats will be at the counter because I enjoy interacting with customers, that’s why the longer, sushi-focused menu format will be served exclusively there, but the tables will give us the flexibility to create shorter experiences and offer à la carte specials,” Ricketts explained. 

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Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell
Above Chef Bruce Ricketts on Mecha Uma and Iai | Photo courtesy of Bruce Ricketts and Jae Pickrell

In addition to the spectacular food, you can look forward to Iai’s version of wine service. This husband and wife duo have recently fallen in love with wine and are excited to share their favourites with guests. “I’m also trying to convince Jae to do tea service because she studied it, and if you know my wife, you’ll know she’s as obsessed about it as I am with fish, so we’ll see,” he teased.

“In my years of working in Mecha, I learned about the shokunin philosophy and [now] I want to pursue that further in a new space with my wife and business partner, Jae. I want to further reflect my own style in sushi and kappo cooking, and do it on our terms, with mine and our shared experiences,” Ricketts expounded. “As a self-taught cook, it’s always been difficult for me to gauge my skills and understanding in the direction I’ve chosen, but I’ve always been inspired by so many masters we’ve met in Japan and elsewhere, who are not afraid to express themselves in the way they know how, and I wish to still be this relentless at Iai.” And to that, I say, may your persistent journey continue, fueled by hunger, curiosity, and the beautiful obsession that has captivated us through the years.

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