What does it take to be one of the world’s best bars? 5000 records, sleep, some creative problem-solving, and the language of lowering expectations
When Caretaker’s Cottage was recognised as one of the world’s top 100 by the World’s 50 Best Bars back in 2022, it took many by surprise— nestled in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD, this “cocktail pub” had only been open for about six months. Fast forward just a year later, and the quaint operation not only broke through the top 50 but climbed a nifty 37 spots, earning a ranking of #23 in the world.
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“CBD Melbourne is a very metropolitan, fairly new city with lots of highrises—and we’ve got an old, small cottage, just adjacent to a church,” remarks Matt Stirling, who runs the outfit alongside Rob Uldis Libecans and Ryan Noreiks. “Rob always describes it as, erm… has everyone seen the movie Up? (Laughs.) Yeah, it’s a beautiful tiny building, really in amongst all the steel and glass in the city, and we’ve been operating as a pub, delivering what we think are really tasty drinks.”
It’s an unconventional venue, to say the least. As its name suggests, this charming brick cottage was once home to the caretaker of the Wesley Place church. Even for a pub, “old” and “small” is perhaps an understatement—the cottage is over a century old, and its 50-person indoor capacity is largely owing to some creative problem-solving.
Keep in mind, this was once someone’s residence: it was not designed to be a pub, cocktail bar, or whatever you choose to call it. “When I say unique, I mean difficult—it’s difficult working at our venue,” Uldis Libecans admits. “It’s a house; people actually lived there. It’s two rooms and a hallway.”
I had done my due diligence before my visit, familiarising myself with images of the pub and consulting Google Maps on the walk over. Yet when I did manage to find this quaint cottage, I couldn’t shake the feeling I was about to walk in on someone’s family dinner— as Uldis Libecans pointed out, it was once someone’s home, and it certainly still looks like one. Trespassing laws be damned, I meekly nudged open the door in need of some shelter that chilly August evening.
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