What was the first dish (sweet or savoury) you learned how to cook/bake?

With all honesty, chopsuey. Mom always believed that cooking vegetables well is a sign of care and skill, so I always had that thought in mind with all dishes: the technicalities and processes. After that, I learned to make adobo sa puti. This had a bit more direction, and in a way, it was more restrictive with ingredients, unlike chopsuey where you can basically put anything.

What is one dish or ingredient that you couldn’t stomach growing up? How do you feel about it now?

Bittergourd and pork liver. I really didn’t like the heavy bitterness of ampalaya. As for the pork liver, I found it too funky, and weird. I mean all kids would really understand what I mean. But also now, I’ve grown to love both ingredients and I’ve learned how to cook and use them in my dishes.

Read more: Mōdan presents its second menu: Origami

What is your favourite food memory from your childhood? Why is it so special?

Again, I associate most of my childhood food memories with my mom. She used to make a different kind of tendon tempura that I’m sure most people would think was a joke (because I too thought my mom was kidding me). This tempura was not a vegetable tempura or a beef tendon, but it was the first tempura I had and loved. It was made from chunks of ebi (shrimp), and it resembled more of an okoy rather than the ebi tempura most people are accustomed to. Across all the restaurants we’ve been to growing up, I never saw an ebi tempura like the one my Mom would make for us, so I assumed she was just messing with us... until Margarita [Forés] and I went to Ginza and went into a place called Ten-ichi. We were served that “tendon” tempura and like a flashback, I was a kid again. It was such a good trip to memory lane.

What is a childhood breakfast you loved?

Tapa, as simple as it is, and fried leftover adobo—both with garlic rice, they will always have a place in my heart. It’s so simple and so good!

What is a childhood after-school merienda you loved?

Turon (banana and jackfruit lumpia). Nowadays I think I’m hardwired to buy it because every time I see kids selling them I always buy most of what they have, even if I’m not craving it. I end up giving them to other people as well, to my staff mostly.

See also: Erwan Heussaff on his culinary journey, the James Beard award win, and his Filipino food advocacy

Is there a particular person, friend or family, that you associated with food and eating while growing up? Tell us about them and how they influenced you.

I have two, and they are from somewhat different sides of the food spectrum but both have been incredibly influential to my growth in the food scene. My mother, more homey and leaning towards comfort food, where I learned to put more thought and memories into the dishes I make. On the other end, my industry mother, Margarita [Forés]. She opened the world to me, quite literally, and introduced me to finer more elevated foods, which greatly helped me play and explore more with my creations. I love and cherish them both, I would not be where I am today if not for them.

What is something you used to always eat while growing up but now don’t have so much of?

A very funny story: polvoron. When I was around seven years old, I thought it was made from just sugar and flour. And ever since I discovered how to open the fire of our stove back in our old home, I’d wake up very early, before everyone else, take the lid of an old rice cooking pot (the all-metal ones), mixed in sugar and flour together, and cooked it over the lid, and I would eat it. It wasn’t great, but I would make it again and again, haha!

NOW READ

These are the people behind Asia’s most popular restaurants and bars

What makes a standout bar? The Curator and The Back Room share industry insights

Foodie Finds with Chef Jorge Mendez