1 / 1
The chefs at Mōdan spent two days at Last Note Restaurant in Shinjuku, here is what happened
Fresh off his win in the recent Tatler Dining Awards, Jorge Mendez, owner of Mōdan and recipient of the Rising Star award, flew to Tokyo, Japan on the first week of March to celebrate his very first collaboration. Accompanied by his team composed of Jeffrey Empinado and Jan Kelvin Pundavela, and armed with a luggage full of Filipino ingredients, he successfully staged a two-day stint at Last Note Restaurant in Shinjuku with chef Kenji Kawasaki.
Held over lunch and dinner last March 3 and 4, the fun-filled event was set up by the author who had the fortunate chance of collaborating with Kenji back in 2017 as part of his cookbook tour in Asia. He hooked them up and got Cebu Pacific to sponsor the flights, and the two easily managed to put up quite an impressive menu that married not just produce from each of their home countries, but also the techniques they both possess.
“The collaboration was a reminder of why we do what we do,” says Mendez. “Chef Kenji is just amazing! We picked up many things from him. Most notably, the way he treats fish. He has a variety of curing techniques as well as a wide knowledge about desserts.”
See also: These are the 6 best ramen shops in Tokyo, according to Tabelog
1 / 2
Their repertoire was composed of seven numbers, each very Japanese in form, but had hints of Filipino flavour. Take for example their snack, which got the entire meal rolling. It came as a pair—chutoro sushi and a piece of korokke, which is much like a croquette, adorned and balanced in texture and taste by wasabi beet cream and Fuji apple tsukemono. Inside the crispy exterior was shreds of pork humba.
The following plate was a medley of fresh seafood: botan ebi with its head and tail on and a tender body marinated in citrus and sake, sultry morsels of uni, buri or amberjack fish served two ways—torched belly and yuzu-salabat-marinated-loin, accompanied by pickles.
It’s the season for kegani aka hairy crab and so the chefs took advantage by championing it in their third course. It was simply boiled then served on a pool of kani miso dulce de leche, finished with biasong zest, and it sat right beside a mound of Japanese coriander salad.
See also: Helm by Josh Boutwood moves to its new home at Ayala Triangle Gardens, Makati City
1 / 2
The next dish may seem familiar especially to those who have dined at Mōdan. It’s Jorge’s signature chicken wing, but unlike the one in his Quezon City restaurant which is stuffed with caviar rice, his collab dish came filled to the brim with sinamak shari, and was completed with an ensemble of inasal jus, chicken oil, and lemongrass miso.
The succeeding savoury numbers were nothing short of stellar. They consisted of a battered and crisp-fried piece of akagarei suspended on a puddle of lobster sauce with biasong juice, and seared Wagyu with cocomansi sauce, mashed yurine (lily bulbs), smoked cheese, apollo broccoli, and brussel sprouts.
Rounding up the meal was dessert that was presented as a cast of characters: bridge pie, black sesame paste, castella soaked in black sesame milk, grilled lakatan mousse, dried and fresh strawberries, and dried mango ice cream with sancho pepper.
See also: Ruby Jack’s Steakhouse & Bar opens at Ayala Triangle Gardens
1 / 2
Rounding up the meal was the dessert which was presented as a cast of characters: bridge pie, black sesame paste, castella soaked in black sesame milk, grilled lakatan mousse, dried and fresh strawberries, and dried mango ice cream with sancho pepper.
Aside from his undeniable talent, what the team admired most about Kawasaki was his personality. “We admire his low-key disposition,” says Mendez. “He is very generous when it comes to sharing his know-how and is very patient and hospitable, which made the collab so worth it.”
NOW READ
What inspired the Philippines top mixologists' creations at Cocktail Festival 2023?
What to know about whisky as told by The Dalmore master whisky maker Gregg Glass
