Opening soon: Helm by Josh Boutwood moves to its new home at Ayala Triangle Gardens, Makati City

Inspired by the Japanese art of kintsugi—an age-old tradition of repairing broken pottery with metal lacquer—the minimalist interiors of stone and glass with gold accents cleverly represent Boutwood’s style. Just as ceramic fragments are mended with stunning silver, gold, or platinum, the seasoned chef masterfully intertwines a range of techniques, ingredients, and flavours, piecing them together with his culinary deft. Guyabano gel, Szechuan peppers, Saint-Nectaire cheese, and chimichurri may not be natural acquaintances, but they don’t feel out of place at Helm. 

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The 10-seater U-shaped counter, once the heart of Helm’s BGC home, is no more. The restaurant proper now seats a comfortable 24 across multiple tables, allowing guests to choose how they dine. For those after dinner and a show, the first counter offers the best seats in the house with unobstructed views of the open kitchen and finishing touches added just a meter across from you. Diners who prefer traditional table seating are well cared for, too, with cosy nooks for pairs and groups. On the breezy terrace, Helm offers an additional 20 seats in tables of four (if weather permits!) overlooking Paseo de Roxas.

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Yet, despite the allure of the newly-minted Helm, food remains the rightful star. Amidst the inviting glow that fills the space, Boutwood’s minimalist, ingredient-focused culinary philosophy continues to shine brightest. The subtle triangle motifs that line the stone walls are an artful nod to Boutwood’s fascination with the number three, as well as the delicate trinity of ingredients, flavours, and texture he seeks to balance with every dish.

The 14-course preview dinner was a testament to the timelessness of Boutwood’s approach. Introductory snacks like his take on fish and chips set the tone for the evening. Made with Spanish mackerel, lightly cured and smoked in apple wood then coated in vodka batter and topped with potato skin powder (hence, the “chips”), the snack was playful yet easy to understand, further balanced with calamansi gel, garlic emulsion, and fresh dill. The barley porridge with Pecorino Romano and Comté cheese tread the line between comfort and excitement, served with kale oil, egg yolk gel, potato espuma, and puffed rice—”a humble dish”, to borrow from the chef’s commentary, but one that proves the value of simplicity.

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With Boutwood’s careful orchestration of the tasting menu, one never feels rushed nor overwhelmed, even as the meal crescendos to a succulent pan-seared duck breast with guyabano gel, cauliflower puree, black pepper gel, gastrique duck sauce, and caramelised onion tuile. Saint-Nectaire cheese served with pear butter and a beetroot-caraway lavash was an unexpected but gentle turn into the dessert courses, ending in a rich amalgamation of chocolates: white chocolate espuma, dark chocolate crémeux, 72 per cent chocolate crumble, and a delicious burnt white chocolate sauce. As the dinner’s closing remarks, the decadent treat powerfully resonated Boutwood’s style: one that is uncomplicated, and deliberately so, free of unnecessary embellishments. 

From April 1 2023, Helm by Josh Boutwood at BGC will be closed, and the restaurant’s next chapter begins at its new location: 3/L The Shops at Ayala Triangle Gardens, Makati City. Guests may opt between an 8-course or 12-course tasting menu, and reservations open on April 1.

As for the old BGC space, stay tuned—chef Boutood isn’t letting go of it just yet, with another concept currently in the works.

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