Cover Masashi Horiuchi, the executive chef of Entier and Potager (Photo: Kenny Loh)
Masashi Horiuchi, the executive chef of Entier and Potager (Photo: Kenny Loh)
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The talent behind Entier and Potager celebrates local farmers and growers
“Kitchen life has always felt natural to me,” Masashi Horiuchi smiles. The good-natured executive chef of Entier and Potager sits opposite me in Potager’s impressive dining room, where I face the open kitchen. “Many people think that being a chef lacks work-life balance, but since I started cooking, I’ve felt that the challenges along the way have been instrumental in shaping who I am today,” he continues.
Horiuchi began cooking at the age of 16 but his exposure to the industry started earlier, as he used to follow his grandfather to the market to sell produce as a child. However, his first inclination to become a chef occurred while dining at a restaurant, which left a lasting impression. “We didn’t come from a wealthy family, but my mother took [me and my four siblings] to a steak restaurant—one with proper tablecloths and a beautiful view,” he reminisces. While he initially worried about how they were going to afford the meal, that dissolved into a desire to recreate such a memorable experience: “The feeling of being able to sit and dine together was like no other, and I wanted to be a part of it.”
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Above Masashi Horuichi is Tatler Dining's Chef of the Year
Masashi Horuichi is Tatler Dining's Chef of the Year
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Horiuchi attended culinary school in Osaka, Japan, but left for Switzerland after completing his course. “I joined a bistro there, and ended up spending more than 20 years of my life in Europe,” he chuckles. “I am fortunate to have worked with esteemed chefs from Philippe Groult, Adolf Blokbergen and Gérard Rabaey to Georges Blanc and Antoine Westermann.” One of the strongest influences in Horiuchi’s career, however, was Joël Robuchon, with whom he worked alongside at the two Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in London.
Above Potager, located in Bamboo Hills, was one of the most exciting restaurants to open in 2023
Potager, located in Bamboo Hills, was one of the most exciting restaurants to open in 2023
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After spending two decades in Europe, Horiuchi decided it was time for a change after having his second child, choosing to move across the globe to Singapore. During his time there, he noticed that a lot of premium produce originated from across the border in Malaysia, piquing his curiosity. Hence, when he was approached by Platform Hospitality Group to open a restaurant in Malaysia that reflected his culinary philosophy, he jumped at the chance.
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Above Horiuchi combines French techniques with Japanese and homegrown ingredients
Horiuchi combines French techniques with Japanese and homegrown ingredients
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Horiuchi admits that during his younger years, especially when working in Europe, he found it hard to come to terms with his identity. “I worried about whether I could succeed as a Japanese chef cooking French food in France,” he says. However, it is this fusion of identities that forms the backbone of Horiuchi’s success, as well as the concept behind his first restaurant in Malaysia, Entier, which combines French techniques with Japanese ingredients and influences.
“At Entier, our concept is nose-to-tail dining, which is the way humans have been eating since time immemorial,” he says. “The Chinese, French, Japanese and Italians all have different techniques to conserve ingredients, from slow or fast cooking to picking, fermenting and curing.”
Above While disciplined in the kitchen, Horiuchi is well-natured
While disciplined in the kitchen, Horiuchi is well-natured
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At the root of this concept is sustainability, practised by consuming every part of the produce, chosen with seasonality and regionality in mind. “The communal dining style and sharing plates helped Entier take off, and we are fortunate it has been so well accepted,” he says humbly.
The incorporation of seasonal produce is also something the esteemed chef holds close to his heart. “I am very inspired by ingredients and the opportunities to discover and experience them,” he says. Horiuchi cites the example of Yumetsukushi rice, a special kind of rice characterised by large and shiny grains. “My father grows this rice, and as a result, it sits deep in my taste memories,” he smiles.
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Above Horiuchi celebrates local growers through his food at Potager and Entier
Horiuchi celebrates local growers through his food at Potager and Entier
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Potager, the second restaurant Horiuchi helms in Malaysia, and arguably the most exciting opening of 2023, is rooted in this passion. “In my six years of working here, I have grown close to so many producers, and Potager naturally became a stage to showcase these talented growers,” he says. He cites the example of cocoa grown by indigenous tribes, rice from the Bario Highlands, and locally harvested caviar, fish and guinea fowl, all of which make an appearance in the Potager experience.
The establishment shines a light on creators, from farmers to artists, whose paintings and sculptures grace the cream-coloured walls of the restaurant. “Here, we have the opportunity to showcase what the Malaysian terroir offers,” he enthuses. “We incorporate our culinary wisdom using the best Malaysian produce, with French cuisine as a base.”
While Horiuchi has undoubtedly achieved more than many dream of, he does not plan to stop anytime soon: “I want to continue striving for excellence without compromise, pushing the creative boundaries of the culinary arts, while inviting guests to join us on this journey of discovery.”
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Credits
Photography: Kenny Loh
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
