Cover Eddie Ng of Okaju Japanese Grill (Photo: Okaju Japanese Grill)
Eddie Ng of Okaju Japanese Grill (Photo: Okaju Japanese Grill)
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The talented Malaysian chef is known for innovation in the world of sushi
Ed.ju Omakase, the modern Japanese restaurant known for its use of black Chinese vinegar in sushi rice, aged fish, and other daring techniques, will be shutting its doors this year. Helmed by Malaysian chef Eddie Ng, few know that the opening of the DC Mall-based restaurant was not originally on the cards. In fact, Ng was jaded from his time working at Nobu Kuala Lumpur, constantly facing Malaysian customers asking for a Japanese chef and planning to leave the country for a fresh start in Australia.
Before departing however, he decided to host a pop-up at DC Restaurant, serving unconventional sushi to challenge customers’ palates. “The sushi we served was affordable, at RM180 a head, but it was all aged and served by me, a Malaysian,” he chuckles. While he faced a fair share of questions, he ended up meeting investors who shared the same mindset of educating the local market.
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Above Ed.Ju Omakase’s Chinese black vinegar sushi rice
Above Aged sushi at Ed.ju Omakase
Ed.Ju Omakase’s Chinese black vinegar sushi rice
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“That was how Ed.Ju Omakase was born, a 10-seater restaurant with a single menu for dinner,” he recalls. “We made sushi exactly the way we wanted to, in a way no one else has before.” However, with Ng spending the majority of his time at Okaju Japanese Grill, which opened last year, and the close association of Ed.Ju Omakase with his presence (in fact, many often think his name is Ed.ju to his amusement), the restaurant will be closing after nearly six years.
Above Eddie Ng
Eddie Ng
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Being a chef was not always the plan for the tenacious Ng, who was first introduced to the industry by working in a Chinese takeaway after completing his management degree in the UK. While he just needed a job at the time, the science behind food and its endless possibilities piqued his interest. He went on to work in a yakitori joint in Soho before landing a job at Roka, a contemporary Japanese robatayaki restaurant. “It was an intense working environment, but I met people from all around the world, and I realised how much pride people had in cooking,” he says.
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Inspired, he delved into the craft of sushi making, cutting his chops at Yashin Sushi, a restaurant he felt was pushing boundaries for Japanese cuisine in London. “My mentors always advised me to educate my palate and spend all the money I made on food,” he smiles, reminiscing. “This really helped me understand how flavours work, and ideas for new dishes would come to me more easily.” Ng’s visa expired soon after, and he returned to Malaysia.
“When I returned to Kuala Lumpur in 2016, the dining scene was still growing, and I missed the energy I felt in London,” he admits. He worked at Nobu Kuala Lumpur for eight months before moving to Tokyo to work at a three-Michelin star sushi restaurant. However, his stint did not last long. “I left after two months due to the abusive treatment we faced there,” he says.
After gaining experience around the world, he was ready to change the face of and stigma behind Japanese food, and Ed.Ju Omakase was born. While the restaurant may be closing its physical store, Ng says: “Innovation and breaking boundaries will still be at the core of running our restaurants.” For now, his focus is on Okaju Japanese Grill, which opened in 2022.
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Above Uni Bun, a signature at Okaju Japanese Grill
Uni Bun, a signature at Okaju Japanese Grill
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“What we do there is simple, nothing extraordinary, but we put spins on familiar dishes in our own way, using the best ingredients available,” he smiles. Each dish at the restaurant is based strongly around an individual concept.
Above Seafood Ceviche
Above Assorted sushi
Seafood Ceviche
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For instance, the Okaju Salad is inspired by a dish available at every izakaya—the potato salad. “But we do it our way, so you get to taste the salad as a salad while the potatoes shine too,” he says. The potatoes are steamed, then stored in a freezer to remove moisture, before being fried during service: “The potatoes are crisp and fluffy, and we dress them with tempeh powder.”
Above New Zealand Lamb Rack
Above Okaju Japanese Grill's interior
New Zealand Lamb Rack
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One piece of advice Ng gives to young chefs is passed down from his mentors at Yashin Sushi—to learn from dining out. “Go to the best restaurants no matter the cuisine, travel, and gain ideas and knowledge,” he quips. “That is where the future of the industry lies.”
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Credits
Images: Okaju Japanese Grill
About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
