Fermentation is at the forefront of Pickle Dining, located within the heart of Chinatown

We speak to head chef and co-founder Danial Thorlby about the exciting new opening

“There are primitive ways to impart flavour into food that are lost in modern times,” smiles Danial Thorlby, the head chef and co-founder of Pickle Dining. He refers to cooking over wood fire, smoking, pickling, lacto-fermentation, dry-ageing, and other methods seen throughout restaurant dishes. “Such preservation methods and techniques have a strong human element and are not as common in this day and age,” he continues.

To be able to serve guests in this manner excites the Malay-English chef: “All these techniques date back to the beginning of time and come from different cultures.” Age-old methods and the history of the world have always interested Thorlby, who tells me that his other career option was to become an archaeologist.

Above Pickles make an appearance on the shelves

Above Sunlight shines through every corner of the restaurant

Pickles make an appearance on the shelves

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However, he instead completed a culinary course at Taylor’s Culinary Institute and bought a one-way ticket to London, landing himself a job at Ladurée. Beginning his career in French techniques, and with a desire to see the world, he moved to Paris after two years, before stints in New York and Singapore, becoming head chef at the young age of 25.

“Before I knew it, I had achieved my 10 year goals, which were to travel and become head chef, and I needed to figure out what came next,” he explains. As such, Thorlby moved back to Kuala Lumpur in 2018, but the pandemic struck soon after.

While the majority of restaurants were shut down or operating minimally during this period, Thorlby worked with Feeka Coffee Roasters and grew the business from two to eight outlets in just three years. “This gave me the confidence I needed to open my own restaurant,” he smiles.

Above The interior is conceptualised by architect and co-owner Shin Tseng

Above Tables and chairs are upcycled or salvaged

The interior is conceptualised by architect and co-owner Shin Tseng

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Pickle Dining combines all of Thorlby’s favourite things—hosting friends, archaeology, and casual cooking. Located in the heart of Petaling Street, the restaurant is housed in a pre-war shophouse that was originally a Chinese grocer (which, funnily enough, sold jars of preserved ingredients). Natural light soaks through every nook and cranny of the space, which is conceptualised by architect and co-owner Shin Tseng.

“The building is around 100 years old, and we wanted to show that off in the interior,” Thorlby continues. Tables and chairs are crafted from recycled plastic and vehicle parts; the main dining table is salvaged from a warehouse.

Above Dishes at Pickle Dining are uncomplicated

Dishes at Pickle Dining are uncomplicated

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When it comes to the food, I soon realise each dish has a unique story. For instance, the Jerusalem artichoke espuma: “The first time I tried [the root vegetable] in London, I knew that if I ever were to open a restaurant, I wanted it on the menu.” The earthiness of the artichoke shines through beautifully with the addition of a sweet pear compote and soy sauce hidden below the creamy espuma.

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Above Thorlby putting the finishing touches on a dish of heirloom leek

Above Grilled sirloin with black garlic aioli

Thorlby putting the finishing touches on a dish of heirloom leek

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Another dish he holds close to his heart is the cinnamon doughnut with wild honey cream. “Everything we do here is clean and simple, and I feel this dessert is the perfect representation,” he smiles as he places down the plate. He recalls how his aunt used to babysit him and how one of her favourite things to do was to make him fresh doughnuts.

The doughnuts, an ode to his childhood, still hot to the touch, are tossed in an aromatic cinnamon sugar and served alongside a delicate smoked wild honey Chantilly cream, elevated with expertise from his years spent in kitchens.

Above Cinnamon doughnut with wild honey cream

Above The non-alcoholic beverages are also fermented in house

Cinnamon doughnut with wild honey cream

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Below the restaurant, however, is where the magic happens. The restaurant’s soon-to-be fermentation lab is still in the works, where Thorlby plans to carry out experiments with some of the best ingredients our land provides. When ready, these creations will make an appearance in dishes served in the restaurant: “Fermentation changes ingredients over time, so the guest experience is always different, trying ferments at different stages.”

Above Pickle is located in the heart of Chinatown

Pickle is located in the heart of Chinatown

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While sustainability shows itself in all aspects of the restaurant, from the interior and techniques used to ingredients, I feel it is most prominent in the working environment. Pickle Dining is open just five days a week, rare in the world of food, allowing its staff ample time for rest. “Being a chef for so long, there is a certain level of abuse I have faced,” Thorlby admits. “We want to counter that here with a healthy work-life balance and a good dose of respect and be that change in the industry.”

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Credits

Photography: Fady Younis

Katelyn Tan

Dining and Travel Editor, Malaysia & Indonesia, Tatler Malaysia

About

Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.