Cover A woman eats Udon, Japanese popular wheat-flour noodles.
A woman eats Udon, Japanese popular wheat-flour noodles.
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The chef of this one-Michelin-starred modern European restaurant shares his favourite eats in Japan’s former imperial capital
It’s hard to resist the charm of Kyoto, Japan’s ancient historic capital which is home to a plethora of beautifully preserved temples, shrines and, culinary offerings that harmoniously blend the old and the new. That said, it’s no surprise that Kyoto ranks high in chef de cuisine Seth Lai’s list of holiday destinations when he’s seeking inspiration for his ever-changing omakase menus at one-Michelin-starred 28 Wilkie.
This year alone, he has visited the old capital twice and plans to visit again this winter to revisit his favourite dining spots and check out new eateries. “There are always new places waiting to be discovered,” he said, but for now, here are the five dining spots he’d go back to over and over again.
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1. Shofukutei
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Lai discovered Shofukutei with his friends after visiting the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. “We wanted a place that wasn’t touristy,” he shared, and this traditional soba and udon restaurant has been well-loved by locals since it opened its doors in 1938. It isn’t surprising given that the small kitchen brigade makes their soba daily by hand, ensuring a soft and springy texture that makes for the perfect vessel to their umami-packed classic dipping sauce.
Lai has been back to this soba place many times, and always orders the Zaru Soba Set which comes with one big bowl of hand-made soba noodles, dipping sauce, and an assortment of deep-fried tempura coated in a light yet crunchy batter.
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2. Kumano Winehouse
Located at Higashimaru Tacho in Kyoto—where most of the izakayas and restaurants close early—Kumano Winehouse is one of those few places that closes at 12am. Lai’s Japanese friend (who’s based in Kyoto) recommended this place, and the chef has been back a few times to enjoy its cosy atmosphere, good playlist and a great selection of natural wines. “They won me over with their choicest pours,” added Lai, who often leaves it to the owner to recommend his favourite wines. The food menu is also worth ordering, especially the breaded aji (mackerel), which is crispy on the outside yet soft and moist on the inside.
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3. Homemade Soba Noodle Takahashi (蕎麦手打ち たか橋 )
Above Photo: Seth Lai
Photo: Seth Lai
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This was Lai’s first discovery on his first trip to Kyoto last year, and he continues to be charmed by its retro atmosphere and authentic, Kyoto-style food upon every visit. This “hidden gem” is located in the Shimogyo Ward part of Kyoto, and is run by a middle-aged couple who only operate four tables on the ground level. The tempura soba sets come in big portions and an assortment of tempura that makes them extra filling; it’s worth ordering a rice bowl.
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4. Kyo Tsukemen, Tsurukame
This eatery located in the Nakagyo Ward, Nakanocho (near Nishiki Market and Kyoto Kawaramachi station) always draws long queues for its signature tsukemen—or dipping-style ramen. It doesn’t disappoint with its soft and springy noodles made from scratch daily, and the flavour-packed dipping sauce prepared with just a hint of spice. Lai recommends the spicy and shoyu tsukemen, which caters to the chef’s penchant for spicier flavours. Each bowl is also filling, especially when you have accompaniments like the hard-boiled egg, bamboo shoots and thickly sliced chashu.
5. Issen Yoshoku
While Issen Yoshoku doesn’t have an English sign at the door, you’ll easily find this place with its striking décor and eye-catching red Japanese lanterns, posters and other funny figurines at the entrance. The restaurant serves the famous Japanese dish, okonomiyaki, cooked with spring onions, beef, eggs, ginger, dried shrimps and bonito, among other ingredients. There’s only one main dish on the menu, and according to Lai, it’s very “rich in flavour and addictive”. After a filling meal, order the matcha and hojicha soft serve ice cream for a sweet end to your meal.
Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.
