Cover Jasvinder Karam is the author of Champur, Flavours from a Malaysian Home (Photo: Pacino Wong)
Jasvinder Karam is the author of Champur, Flavours from a Malaysian Home (Photo: Pacino Wong)
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Growing up in the multicultural city of Kuala Lumpur, Jasvinder Karam’s dishes speak to all Malaysians
“I always thought of Chinese, Indian, and Malay cuisine as one,” Jasvinder Karam tells me. The author of Champur, Flavours from a Malaysian Home, flips through her cookbook, and recipes pop out, from nasi lemak and curry mee to biryani, organised by ingredient rather than cuisine. “My Malay cooking came from my dad’s friends, while I was exposed to Indian and Chinese fare at home and at school,” she says.
Jasvinder began working on her book in March 2021, completing her collection of recipes and stories in September 2022 with support from her daughter. While she tried and tested each recipe over 20 times while writing the cookbook, the dishes are ones that the 59-year-old has served to friends and family hundreds of times over the past five decades.
Read more: MY vs SG: The differences between Malaysian and Singaporean bak kut teh
Above Jasvinder makes all her spice pastes from scratch
Above Banana leaf is a favourite in Jasvinder's household
Jasvinder makes all her spice pastes from scratch
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While she is now undoubtedly passionate about cooking, Jasvinder began making food out of necessity. “I lost my mum when I was nine, so from a young age, I was in charge of running the household,” she reveals. “By the time I was 11, I was going to the market and making food for my family on my own.”
Despite the fact that she pursued a career in law, making food has always been something that intrigued her. “During my teenage years I was teaching myself to make things I liked, from dim sum to sweet potato doughnuts,” she chuckles. “There was no Google at the time, so I had to come up with recipes myself.”
After getting married at the age of 27, Jasvinder embraced an expanded role in cooking for her family and discovered her true passion lay in creating dishes from scratch. This is an ethos that she has stood by throughout her years in the kitchen as she shies away from processed foods and pastes. For instance, in the case of her sambal chilli: “I buy organic chillies, cut them, clean them, and make the sambal,” she says.
Above Jasvinder lightens her curry laksa by replacing coconut milk with milk
Above Jasvinder's nasi kandar chicken combines Indian spices and Chinese thick soy sauce
Jasvinder lightens her curry laksa by replacing coconut milk with milk
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Growing up in the multicultural country of Malaysia, Jasvinder was exposed to different cultures from a young age. As such, she has never felt restrained by any single cuisine. “Malaysia is such a melting pot of different races,” she enthuses. “I’ve always cooked Chinese, Indian, and Malay food at home.” In fact, Chinese soups such as bak kut teh (or in her instance, chik kut teh, as her husband does not eat pork) are a staple on her dining table.
The inspiration to write a cookbook came from Jasvinder's son, who encouraged her to share her recipes. “I was unsure at the beginning, but as I began writing, I realised just how strong my affinity to food is—so many of my memories are tied strongly to food, and I was surprised how much of my childhood I remembered!” she laughs.
With all Malaysians in mind, she caters towards cultural sensitivities, choosing not to use beef and pork, and providing vegetarian options for nearly three quarters of recipes. “I was incredibly mindful about precision, as even an extra tablespoon of ginger paste can change a whole dish,” she says.
See also: A food lover’s guide to Sapporo, Japan
Above Chicken rendang
Above Lemongrass fried chicken
Chicken rendang
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Jasvinder believes strongly that cooking should not be perceived as daunting, and as such, her recipes are approachable. “I’ve always tended towards clean cooking, where the freshness of the ingredients shine,” she reinforces. For instance, while typical Indian cooking calls for a pantry of spices, she only uses what she perceives as necessary.
To Jasvinder, cooking means celebrating life, and it is her way of showing kindness. She often hosts dinner parties for family and friends, and prides herself in the labour of love. “While it is a lot of hard work, from going to the market, to finding the best ingredients, it is a process I truly enjoy,” she smiles.
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Above Though a Cantonese dish, Jasvinder's miso har lok pairs well with Indian and Malay fare
Above Yellow dhal
Though a Cantonese dish, Jasvinder's miso har lok pairs well with Indian and Malay fare
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Always the thoughtful host, Jasvinder tailors the menu to her guests’ preferences. “I always have enough vegetarian options on top of the meat-forward dishes, and if someone has allergies or is not well, I’ll do something special.”
She is also bold with pairing different cuisines, for instance Indian dishes with her take on har lok (Cantonese dry fried prawns). “I think what makes my food special is that the dishes speak to all Malaysians,” she finishes.
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Images: Pacino Wong
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
