Budo ebi (grape shrimp)
Cover Budo ebi (grape shrimp)
Budo ebi (grape shrimp)

We speak to Sushi Hibiki's Makoto Saito Sam to learn about some of the priciest sushi-grade fish

You’ve probably heard about the 275 kg bluefin tuna that sold for 193 million yen to the self-proclaimed “Tuna King” Kiyoshi Kimura. News of this mammoth-sized sale made headlines around the world for obvious reasons.

Besides the famed bluefin tuna, there are also other highly-coveted fish on the sushi and sashimi market that also go for similarly exorbitant prices due to its seasonality and unique flavours. Some of these prices can also be attributed to the labour required to prep the fish and sometimes even the certifications, such as the license required to prepare fugu, or puffer fish.

Read more: 5 things you probably didn't know about sushi

 

Tatler Asia
Makoto Saito Sam of Sushi Hibiki
Above Makoto Saito Sam of Sushi Hibiki
Tatler Asia
Sushi Hibiki is located at Four Seasons Place in the heart of Kuala Lumpur
Above Sushi Hibiki is located at Four Seasons Place in the heart of Kuala Lumpur
Makoto Saito Sam of Sushi Hibiki
Sushi Hibiki is located at Four Seasons Place in the heart of Kuala Lumpur

From the most expensive salmon in the world to the prized grape shrimp, there is a plethora of other varieties of sushi- or sashimi-grade fish that come with a premium price tag. We spoke to Makoto Saito Sam of Sushi Hibiki at Four Seasons Place to explore some of the most expensive and sought-after cuts of fish available on the market.

 

 

Shinko (young gizzard shad)

Tatler Asia
Shinko (young gizzard shad)
Above Shinko (young gizzard shad)
Shinko (young gizzard shad)

Season: Early summer
Source: Central Japan, along the shores
Best served as: nigiri with akasu (red vinegar) flavoured shari (vinegar rice)
Estimated price: RM2,000-3,000 per kg (approximately JPY61,200-91,800 per kg or USD430-650 per kg)

According to Saito, the preparation of shinko is extremely labour intensive with each fish only measuring 3 cm long, making the dissecting process particularly painstaking. “One piece of sushi is usually made of up to eight fillets,” explains Saito, emphasising just how small this fish is.

The moment shinko season begins in the early summer, which is when it tastes best, a frenzy between chefs and suppliers to get their hands on this small fish ensues. Its sweet and mild flavour profile is complemented by a subtle brininess and delicate nature, which makes it one of the most prized fish available. 

Budo ebi (grape shrimp)

Tatler Asia
Budo ebi (grape shrimp)
Above Budo ebi (grape shrimp)
Budo ebi (grape shrimp)

Season: No specific season
Source: Hokkaido and Sanriku regions
Best served as: sashimi or on nigiri
Estimated price: RM80 per piece (approximately JPY2,440 per piece or US$17 per piece)

It is dubbed the grape shrimp because of the subtle purple hue on its shell. By nature, this shrimp produces less eggs each season compared to other shrimps, which makes its supply scarce and prices high.

“Budo ebi has a strong sweetness and well-balanced taste,” describes Saito. “It is very rare and is the most expensive shrimp caught in the Pacific Ocean.” When served fresh, its crisp texture and delightfully sweet flavour is incomparable. 

See also: 10 of the best omakase experiences in the Klang Valley

Keiji (young Chum salmon)

Tatler Asia
Keiji (young Chum salmon)
Above Keiji (young Chum salmon)
Keiji (young Chum salmon)

Season: Late autumn to early winter
Source: Hokkaido
Best served as: sashimi
Estimated price: RM1,000 per kg (approximately JPY30,550 per kg or US$217 per kg)

This is not your average slice of grocery store salmon. Keiji is the name given to adolescent Chum salmon. This varietal of fish holds the title of the most expensive salmon in the world and, according to Saito, is very light on the salmon flavours that we’re used to. 

You won’t typically find the generic salmon in high-end sushi restaurants, but if you’re lucky, you'll get to have a taste of this highly-prized keiji that is sweet, tender, and slightly fatty. For added exclusivity, each keiji fish comes with a certificate to verify that it is indeed a keiji. 

Hoshi garei (starry flounder)

Tatler Asia
Hoshi garei (starry flounder)
Above Hoshi garei (starry flounder)
Hoshi garei (starry flounder)

Season: Summer
Source: Miyagi prefecture
Best served as: sashimi
Estimated price: RM500 per kg (approximately JPY15,270 per kg US$108 per kg)

Considered the king of all shiromi (white fish), the hoshi garei has a smooth and fatty flavour. It is known to be one of the most sought-after bites in the summertime, with its unique and delicate flavour profile and texture. 

Don't miss: The ultimate sushi cheatsheet: Nigiri vs hosomaki vs gunkan and more

Akagai (ark shell)

Tatler Asia
Akagai (blood clam)
Above Akagai (blood clam)
Akagai (blood clam)

Season: Late autumn to winter
Source: Yuriage in the Miyagi prefecture
Best served as: on nigiri, using the kazari boucho (decorative cutting method), where the akagai is cut in half and flattened to achieve a butterfly shape, increasing the surface area and flavour
Estimated price: RM100 per piece (approximately JPY3,050 per kg or US$22 per piece)

The naturally red hued akagai is one of the most classic seafood offerings in sushi and sashimi form. “The akagai is sweet and delicate and has a bite to it with a firm and crunchy texture,” says Saito. Not only is the akagai full of flavour, it is also packed with nutrients such as iron. 

Unagi (Japanese wild freshwater eel)

Tatler Asia
Unagi (Japanese wild freshwater eel) (Photo: Instagram / @supercarbonhk)
Above Unagi (Japanese wild freshwater eel) (Photo: Instagram / @supercarbonhk)
Unagi (Japanese wild freshwater eel) (Photo: Instagram / @supercarbonhk)

Season: Winter
Source: Shizuoka city in the Kanto region and Kyushu
Best served as: grilled and brushed with kabayaki no tare (soy, mirin, sake, and sugar sauce)
Estimated price: RM800 per kg (approximately JPY24,400 per kg or US$173 per kg)

You might think that unagi is easy to come by and extremely common. However, the unagi that you’re thinking of is not the unagi that Saito is referring to. He is, in fact, referring to the extremely rare wild eels that are hard to source, as over 99 per cent of eels now found on the market are farmed. 

“Wild unagi is one of the best seafoods nutrition-wise,” Saito states, as the eel is full of protein, omega-3, vitamin E, calcium, vitamin A and phosphorus. Its texture is extremely delicate and soft and its sweetness is delightful, especially when complemented with an expertly-crafted kabayaki no tare.

Read more: Kyoto Calling: 5 trendy cafés to visit while exploring the Japanese city

Shiro amadai (white horsehead)

Tatler Asia
Shiro amadai (white horsehead) (Photo: Instagram / @four_calendar_cafe)
Above Shiro amadai (white horsehead) (Photo: Instagram / @four_calendar_cafe)
Shiro amadai (white horsehead) (Photo: Instagram / @four_calendar_cafe)

Season: Winter
Source: Nagasaki and Ehime prefectures
Best served as: tempura or grilled
Estimated price: RM450 per kg (approximately JPY13,750 per kg or US$97 per kg)

According to Saito, the shiro amadai is considered to be the finest of the amadai family with its rich fat content and strong umami flavour profile. It also has a subtle sweetness to each bite, which makes every shiro amadai dish hard to resist. When served as a tempura or grilled, its clean and exquisite flavours shine through.

NOW READ

Ruby chocolate, the natural variety of chocolate that is pink and tastes fruity without additives

Hong Kong’s 36 best Cantonese restaurants for dim sum and more

Expert winemaker Marie Charlemagne shares her love for Veuve Cliquot

Topics

Amanda Fung
Writer, Tatler Dining, Tatler Malaysia
Tatler Asia
Amanda Fung

Amanda is a KL-born and raised third culture kid, who lives to eat. If not found reading, writing for Tatler Dining, or snacking, she is most likely playing with her dog, Katsu, sourcing new Birkenstocks, or looking for a new restaurant to venture to. 

Follow her on Instagram at @feedingamanda.