Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh is a popular spot for Singaporean bak kut teh (Photo: Facebook / Joo Sia Bak Koot Teh)
Cover Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh is a popular spot for Singaporean bak kut teh (Photo: Facebook / Joo Sia Bak Koot Teh)
Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh is a popular spot for Singaporean bak kut teh (Photo: Facebook / Joo Sia Bak Koot Teh)

We take a deep dive into this hearty dish and the differences across the causeway

The Singaporean food vs Malaysian food debate is an age-old conversation among foodies from each country. Both cuisines draw influences from the multiple cultures in their respective countries. However, there are nuances that distinguish each cuisine, including variations that arise from different dialects or regional groups. These differences can be observed in several dishes that are found in both Malaysia and Singapore, but are prepared and presented in slightly different ways.

Read more: 15 eateries at Jewel Changi Airport to stop by before your flight

While we aren’t here to pick sides or crown a winner, we wanted to take a closer look at the distinguishing factors between the dishes of the neighbouring countries. To start off, we compare and contrast the all-time favourite, bak kut teh.

Origins

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Malaysian bak kut teh at Hing Kee Bak Kut Teh (Photo: Instagram / @iris.nihao)
Above Malaysian bak kut teh at Hing Kee Bak Kut Teh (Photo: Instagram / @iris.nihao)
Malaysian bak kut teh at Hing Kee Bak Kut Teh (Photo: Instagram / @iris.nihao)

Malaysian bak kut teh's roots can be traced back to Fujian, China. There is a theory that a local sinseh (Chinese doctor) claimed that he invented the dish in the 1930s, while another claimed that he brought the dish over from Fujian.

Another theory claims that the dish was invented in Port Klang for coolies to supplement their laborious days, just like those across the causeway in Singapore. Today, many believe that Klang is the capital of bak kut teh in Malaysia with many often flocking to their favourite bak kut teh restaurants around the area to enjoy the hearty dish with loved ones, especially on cooler, rainy days. 

See also: The best bak kut teh in Malaysia, according to chefs

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A Singaporean bak kut teh meal (Photo: Instagram / @yan_on_the_road)
Above A Singaporean bak kut teh meal (Photo: Instagram / @yan_on_the_road)
A Singaporean bak kut teh meal (Photo: Instagram / @yan_on_the_road)

If you grew up in Singapore, you probably grew up eating bak kut teh (literally “meat bone tea” in Hokkien). Considered a national food treasure, the origins of bak kut teh in Singapore remain uncertain, but it is believed to have been introduced by Hokkien immigrants from Fujian, China who settled around Clarke Quay and River Valley. These immigrants, working as coolies, may have found this soup with its fork-tender pork ribs falling off the bone to be the perfect filling breakfast for their day of back-breaking labour.

Today, one of the best ways to enjoy bak kut teh is with friends and family on a chill Sunday, drinking Chinese tea to wash down the fattiness of the soup and dipping pork ribs in dark soy sauce mixed with chopped bird’s eye chillies for extra flavour and heat. 

Preparation and variants

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A full bak kut teh spread at Ka Ka Bak Kut Teh in Malaysia (Photo: Instagram / @clthelow)
Above A full bak kut teh spread at Ka Ka Bak Kut Teh in Malaysia (Photo: Instagram / @clthelow)
A full bak kut teh spread at Ka Ka Bak Kut Teh in Malaysia (Photo: Instagram / @clthelow)

In Malaysia, bak kut teh is a dish that many hold close to their hearts. When it comes to this beloved dish, different preparation styles have garnered a loyal following. One such style is the Teochew-style, known for its peppery and garlicky flavour profile and a clear soup base reminiscent of the one found in Singapore.

On the other hand, the Hokkien-style bak kut teh is more popular and distinct, with a darker hue and a herbal fragrance. The addition of soy sauce and herbs contributes to its rich colour. To enhance the experience, don't forget to dip the you tiao (fried dough stick) that accompanies the meal into the flavourful broth, taking your enjoyment to the next level.

There is also a growing crowd of enthusiasts who prefer the dry style of bak kut teh, which features a thicker gravy and a robust charred soy sauce flavour compared to its soupy counterpart. Pro-tip: One of the best ways to consume this dry style bak kut teh is to pour your bowl of onion oil rice into the aromatic claypot of meat and sauce and toss to your heart's desire, creating a delectable medley of flavours.

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Ng Ah Sio Bak Kut Teh in Singapore (Photo: Facebook / NG AH SIO Bak Kut Teh)
Above Ng Ah Sio Bak Kut Teh in Singapore (Photo: Facebook / NG AH SIO Bak Kut Teh)
Ng Ah Sio Bak Kut Teh in Singapore (Photo: Facebook / NG AH SIO Bak Kut Teh)

There are two variants of bak kut teh in Singapore, but you’d be hard-pressed to find the dark-coloured, flavoured Hokkien version here. Instead, Singaporeans are more familiar with the Teochew version, popularised by famous Michelin Bib Gourmand joints like Song Fa Bak Kut Teh.

Traditionally prepared by simmering pork ribs in a broth seasoned with just garlic, soy sauce, and pepper, the result is a clear and light yellow broth with a peppery attack on the palate as well as a dominant flavour of garlic. Indeed, one of life’s greatest pleasures is discovering a clove of garlic that has absorbed the intense flavours of the bak kut teh broth, its once-firm flesh now softened and ready to deliver a powerful garlic punch.

Don't miss: The Michelin Guide unveils its 2023 Bib Gourmand selection in Singapore with 19 new entries

Where to go for bak kut teh

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Lai Choon Bak Kut Teh's dry and soup versions (Photo: Instagram / @cc.foodstep)
Above Lai Choon Bak Kut Teh's dry and soup versions (Photo: Instagram / @cc.foodstep)
Lai Choon Bak Kut Teh's dry and soup versions (Photo: Instagram / @cc.foodstep)

Narrowing down the best places to indulge in bak kut teh is a challenging task, to say the least, with locals declaring their loyalty to different establishments and styles of bak kut teh. However, there are a few cult favourites that are sure to satiate any cravings.

If you're looking for your fill of the original Klang-style bak kut teh, Seng Huat Bak Kut Teh and Lai Choon Bak Kut Teh are both decades-old restaurants that draw hordes of devoted fans. Head to Hing Kee Bak Kut Teh, a Michelin Bib Gourmand honouree, along Jalan Kepong or Ka Ka Bak Kut Teh in Kepong Baru for your dose of Kepong-style bak kut teh, which has a lighter hue. 

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Bak kut teh at Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh (Photo: Facebook / Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh)
Above Bak kut teh at Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh (Photo: Facebook / Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh)
Bak kut teh at Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh (Photo: Facebook / Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh)

In Singapore, besides Song Fa, one can find Teochew bak kut teh at Joo Siah Bak Koot Teh, another Michelin Bib Gourmand joint that has been running for over 30 years. Their versions include every single cut of pork they receive to cut down on waste, such as offal and bones.

Ng Ah Sio Bak Kut Teh is another heritage joint with origins dating back to the 1950s serving up the popular Teochew style of bak kut teh, offering variants including pig’s tail, kidney, and liver.

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