Cover Jeff’s Cellar (PhotThe stunning cave interior ofo: The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat)
Jeff’s Cellar (PhotThe stunning cave interior ofo: The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat)
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What is it like serving dinner out of a 260-million year old cave? We speak to the executive chef of Jeff’s Cellar to discover more
“I’ve spent eight years at The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat’s Jeff’s Cellar as a chef, and it has always felt like a passion project,” the cheery Lee Choon Boon smiles when I meet him in the stunning cave restaurant that is Jeff’s Cellar. In the heart of Ipoh, the restaurant is a fully natural phenomenon, with water flowing down the cave walls, and stalactites looming from above as diners enjoy Lee’s tasting menus.
My first question to Lee is about his experience running service out of the natural wonder, and unsurprisingly, it does not prove easy. The kitchen is external to the restaurant, so an incredibly large team (the largest within the whole hotel, in fact) is needed to expertly run service smoothly. However it also has its perks: “working in a cave is actually very calming, especially on crazy service days,” he says.
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Above Chef Lee Choon Boon
Chef Lee Choon Boon
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What is even more impressive is that Jeff’s Cellar now offers three different menus: two non-vegetarian and one vegetarian. Prélude features modern European cuisine, while Whimsical highlights Asian and local ingredients,” Lee explains about the non-vegetarian options.
Above Apéro
Apéro
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“To me, Prélude serves as a reminder to embrace change, and I always make it a point to incorporate different cooking techniques and ingredients.” The menu begins with Apéro, featuring a changing ferment of the day. A highlight from this menu is the Diver Scallop, showcasing the protein topped with local caviar and drizzled with herb oil.
Above Diver Scallop
Diver Scallop
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The more Asian-inspired menu, Whimsical, works to challenge the norms of a fine-dining restaurant through unusual and playful flavour combinations. For instance, a dish of termite mushroom with truffle and soy glaze, as well as a surprising dessert inspired by tau fu fa, showcasing tofu in all its forms—shards, gelato, and mousse—finished with Ipoh peanut crumbs and ginger powder.
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Above Termite mushroom
Termite mushroom
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However, a dish that holds a special place in the experienced chef’s heart is actually Yasai, from the vegetarian menu. “We celebrate 24 different kinds of vegetables, some sourced from our garden, and some from local suppliers,” he says.
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Above Dessert from Whimsical showcases tofu in different forms
Dessert from Whimsical showcases tofu in different forms
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Jeff’s Cellar is named aptly, as the restaurant is also home to an underground cellar with an impressive wine selection, pairing exquisitely with both menus. The experience here is truly unlike any other in Malaysia, truly a testimony to our local talent and the beauty of our country’s natural resources.
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Images: The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
