Finding Makan’s identity, and with it, his own culinary voice proved to be a greater challenge—but it’s an obstacle that Lagman considers to be the most rewarding, too. “We found our voice by just cooking what we wanted,” he attests. “By not trying to cook for everyone but for those who want to listen to what we have to say.” At Makan, Lagman offers his interpretation of borderless Filipino cuisine, connecting our food to food cultures around the world. From beef tartare bulalo to tuna poke-poqui, the dishes capture that exciting intersection where local meets global, exploring the limitless possibilities for Filipino food while celebrating its roots.

Below, Lagman reveals the unique challenges of running a restaurant in La Union, his biggest culinary influence, and more.

See also: On the Pass: Get to know chef Carlos Garcia and his philosophy that “food should never be pretentious”

Tell us about the food at Makan. What cuisine/s do you offer and what is the philosophy driving the food at Makan?

We started off as a tasting-menu-only restaurant but quickly figured out that people visiting town didn’t really wanna splurge on a 2-hour dinner when they could just drink and hang out on the beach all day. So, we pivoted to an à la carte format, still on the theme of “experimental Filipino.”

At first, I wanted to blur the lines between courses and move past the ulam and rice of our cuisine. Now we’ve come full circle and proudly serve ulam and rice, hehe. But now it’s more about bringing together everything we’ve learned about food in general and translating it into what we think Filipino food can be. Now, we’re focusing more on food from the north [of the Philippines]. 

What is it like to run a restaurant in La Union? What are some of the biggest advantages and disadvantages you experience?

Lots of people have said it must be nice and chill living and running a business here, but I feel like we have to work harder since there are a lot fewer people in town during the week and we don’t get a lot of regulars. But, we do have some really supportive neighbours! I think that would be one of the top advantages. Another disadvantage would be the consistency of supply. As much as we’d like to source locally, it’s hard to get a consistent supply of quality products here. Some, if not most of the good seafood gets shipped elsewhere. 

Read more: Op-Ed: Why family-style eating is here to stay

What is a challenging lesson you have learned in this industry and how did you grow from it?

Finding your voice and your people. I mean, there’s so much to cook out there. We found our voice by just cooking what we wanted. By not trying to cook for everyone but for those who want to listen to what we have to say. We always believed that if we cooked well, people will come. 

What is something you think people should know about chefs and the F&B world?

I don’t know about the others but personally, I’m the easiest to feed—I’ll eat anything, really. People think that I have this high standard for food, but I don’t usually judge what I eat. If it’s good, it’s good; if it’s not so good, then maybe I just won’t eat as much, hehe. I only have a high standard when it’s something I make that’s going to feed someone else. For me, as long as someone spent some time putting it together, I’m happy. 

How do you think the Philippine dining scene has grown or evolved?

I feel like people are paying a lot more attention to what they put in their mouths. Maybe it’s different per city, but I think people have been cooking at home a lot more so whenever they go out to eat, it’s a bit more celebrated. So I feel like that is what’s making local cooks step up and serve better quality food. 

What would you like to eat for your last 4-course meal on Earth?

Hmmm, first course, rice. Second course, nilaga. Third course, crispy fried galunggong. And a fried egg for the fourth. Have all the courses together... heaven!

In case you missed it: We asked 4 top chefs in the Philippines: can fine dining ever be sustainable?

If you could cook for anyone, dead or alive, who would it be?

My lolo. He died late last year and he’s only eaten one proper dish of mine, which was the dinengdeng we serve at Makan. He was the pickiest eater: boiled eggplant and ampalaya with bagoong, overcooked mushy rice, and then he’ll have some carabao’s milk. Maybe a fried or steamed fish and a banana after. That was basically his constant. When I was starting out, he’d never eat any of my food but he would just be so supportive and proud that I was doing what I loved. I feel like I could make him the best boiled eggplant and ampalaya with mushy milky rice he’s ever had. 

Who has been your biggest influence professionally?

David Chang. Momofuku was the first book I’ve ever read cover to cover. And I had his season of The Mind of a Chef on repeat when I was in school—his and Gabrielle Hamilton’s. They gave me the “do what you wanna do, cook what you wanna cook” chops. We still use some versions of his recipes from that book.

What is the best restaurant you have ever eaten at?

Anan in Saigon. My wife and I went to Vietnam for our honeymoon. It was the first time I ever teared up while chewing food! Locally, I’d have to say the bistro at Element Boutique Hotel in Poblacion. 

What is your favourite food city or foodie travel destination?

Hehe, hint from the last answer. Love love love Vietnam! I’ve never been to Japan though—everyone says it’s going to blow my mind.

Related: Sa Pa, Vietnam: Why you should add this foodie destination to your bucket list

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