Cover Photo: Duane Mendes/Unsplash
Photo: Duane Mendes/Unsplash
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Exclusive new dishes, a slick cosmopolitan vibe, and a distinguished French executive chef gives fans of the fine dining brand many reasons to visit Antonio's at PGA Cars
Many have tried to replicate the same destination dining concept, but Antonio’s Tagaytay has proven time and again that they are truly in a class of its own. Chef and owner Antonio “Tony Boy” Escalante opened the restaurant in 2002 and over the years has expanded the dining room of the Spanish colonial structure into the sweeping property that seats hundreds, crawling with lush foliage, elegant furnishings, and interesting nooks and crannies. The continental cuisine has merited many awards and recognitions, and loyal patrons will drive hours or hop on a chopper to enjoy crisp salads from their garden, succulent oysters in mignonette, European favourites such as roast duck breast and schweinshaxe, and the most exquisite steaks meticulously prepared by chef Tony Boy’s highly skilled kitchen team. The front of the house matches it with surefooted service rivalled only by the most genteel homes, transporting diners to a bygone era when ladies wore “the good jewellery” to dinner and the gentleman would retire to the drawing room for cigars and brandy.
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With such an uncompromisingly distinct atmosphere and a stellar reputation of excellence, bringing the iconic Tagaytay dining spot to the buzzing metropolis seems like an impossible task, if not a bad idea altogether. Antonio’s brand curator and director of Hospitality Isabel Lozano admits that they never even attempted to come up with a copy, and that opening a branch in Manila—and within the showroom of the ultra high-end, Coyiuto-owned PGA Cars along EDSA, Mandaluyong at that—could not be farther off from Antonio’s old-world sensibilities. Then again, that is what Lozano—a former hotelier who sharpened her skill set working in the Mandarin Oriental San Francisco—does: “I make sure that everything about the brand is aligned. I protect the brand.” Also an interior designer, she was tasked to do just that to the dark and sleek interiors that architect Lizette Dimaculangan expertly executed utilising only the finest finishings—from the Italian porcelain tile floors to the walls bathed in Porsche grey.
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While beautiful and emblematic of the stunning machines displayed in the showroom, the space needed to exude Antonio’s. Lozano added flowing drapes and plush carpets to soften the sharp edges. Brass wall sconces were treated to have some patina that felt more classic and elegant, more art deco. “There are candelabras everywhere and table lamps from Belgium,” Lozano explains, “and plants, plants, plants. We wanted to warm it up. Now, I feel, it is a perfect balance of neo-traditional/modern design that takes you back in time.”
Juxtaposed with the one-of-a-kind Lamborghini sitting by the bar on the ground floor, it is suddenly not difficult to see why Antonio’s at PGA Cars is a logical development. “Product-wise, the brands we represent are pretty much at par with each other. Premium quality, the best of the best.” Lozano continues: “People might initially wonder how a fine dining restaurant is in a car showroom, but when people come and see the place it will all make sense.”
And people must come for the food, which is mostly Antonio’s at PGA Cars exclusives. There are definitely the bestsellers from Tagaytay, such as the dry-aged steak tartare and the cola spice glazed rack of lamb, but most of the menu is teeming with new dishes. With Maitres Cuisiniers de France Cyrille Soenen coming in hot as executive chef, it would definitely be a treat to have French classics such as his turn on bouillabaisse and fish a la meunière, or perhaps his famous pate en croute will eventually make its Antonio’s debut. The pickled ox tongue seems like something I would definitely want to try which comes highly recommended by Lozano. Right now, there are many exciting dishes to choose from in the mezzanine dining room, as well as a separate menu for the bar.
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They have definitely kept chef Cyrille’s involvement a well-kept secret until they were ready to make the announcement despite the excitement from both sides about this serendipitous partnership. “I would have to say that our match must be made in heaven,” the French chef narrates. “I was scheduled to go to Bacolod one time and my flight was cancelled. On the flight they rebooked me, I met Tony Boy by chance. Then a couple of days when we were back in Manila, Tony Boy called me with a proposition, and the rest was history.”
Rounding up the cast of main characters is esteemed beverage consultant Lee Watson who will be in charge of libations. He also did the well-crafted cocktails in Tagaytay, rustling up his historical references to execute long-forgotten drinks such as The Last Word and Corpse Reviver. For Antonio’s at PGA Cars, Watson offers his spin on the classics, such as the amaretto sour and espresso martini. Knowing Watson who is always up for a challenge, it would not be farfetched that the bar menu will continue to expand as they go along.
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Since they opened late last year, they have been assaulted with bookings by friends and loyal patrons. While the location is an important factor in a restaurant’s success, what proves to matter most is a reputation of high standards and excellence. Consistency. Being the best of the best. If chef Tony Boy and his team of experts will have their way, these words will follow Antonio’s wherever they decide to go.
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
