Cover Alberto Landgraf will be taking over Sabayon at EQ's kitchen for two weeks (Photo: EQ Kuala Lumpur)
Alberto Landgraf will be taking over Sabayon at EQ's kitchen for two weeks (Photo: EQ Kuala Lumpur)
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The renowned chef brings a slice of Oteque to Sabayon at EQ for two weeks
It is Alberto Landgraf’s first time in Malaysia. The founder of the award-winning Oteque in Rio de Janeiro is in Kuala Lumpur for two weeks, taking over the kitchen at Sabayon at EQ from August 24 to September 7, 2023. Oteque, the celebrated chef’s second restaurant, opened in February 2018 and was soon lauded for its produce-forward minimalist cuisine.
We speak to Landgraf about his background in Physics, how he came to nurture a love for cooking, and how he managed to bring over 200 kg of produce from Brazil to Malaysia.
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When did you first know you wanted to be a chef?
I came to work in the kitchen purely by accident. I grew up in Brazil and completed a degree in Physics, but soon realised I did not want to pursue it as a career—as such, I took six months off to travel, ending up in London. One of my friends, whom I met through football, owned a pub, which we would frequent after matches.
After my six months of travel came to an end, my friend convinced me to stay on in London to pursue a career as a chef. I was 20 at the time, and had never even fried an egg, but he believed in my abilities for a few reasons—I had a degree that would give me an advantage in terms of understanding and organisation, I had good leadership skills which he observed during sports, and I had the athletic endurance and stamina to work long hours in the kitchen.
There was one thing he thought I needed to do though, which was train my palate by eating out at restaurants. I liked the idea of going to the kitchen everyday—one of my biggest fears was to have a boring and repetitive life and I felt that as a chef I could create new things each day.
What do you love most about your job?
As a chef, you make use of all your senses. It is also an infinite subject with an endless amount of things to learn. Twenty years ago, I was learning all about French cooking, from its history and agriculture to the brigade system. Working in Brazil and travelling to Denmark and Japan, there are always new techniques and methods to be discovered.
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How did you end up opening Oteque?
After deciding I wanted a career as a chef, I pursued a culinary degree in Westminster College in London, before going on to work with chefs such as Gordon Ramsay and Tom Aikens. I spent some time in France too, but returned to Brazil in 2005 as my father became ill.
In 2010, I opened my first restaurant in São Paulo, called Epice, which was awarded one Michelin star and was listed as one of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. In 2015, I closed the restaurant and moved to Rio to get married—which in the end did not work out.
I then had a two year sabbatical, travelling to Japan. I spent a lot of time thinking about what I wanted, and how I could find a good work-life balance while repelling the toxic work culture that is so common in kitchens. This all accumulated in the form of Oteque, which I opened in March 2018. In its first year we achieved one Michelin star, and in the second year of operations we were awarded our second star.
What are you most proud of in your career?
Having run Oteque for six years, even with the pandemic right in the middle, we achieved two Michelin stars, were listed in The 50 Best Restaurants, and were listed within the top 10 of Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. I was GQ Brazil Man of the Year twice, and Oteque won more than 30 awards during this time.
I have to attribute this all to my team. Half of my team are women, and I often take in staff from socially challenged communities. When it comes to chefs, I decided to take an approach where I hire them straight from school and teach them everything from scratch.
I once had the CEO of a large hotel chain at my restaurant, and she told me that though she had travelled the world, she had never once been to a place where everyone worked as happily and cohesively. Last year, we won the hospitality award for 50 Best Restaurants and that made me so proud of my team.
How did you come up with the concept behind Oteque?
I was reading a book written by the chief designer of Muji, Kenya Hara, a respected architect and designer. There was a line that really got my attention—he said, when thinking about Muji, his job was to make what is simple sophisticated, and what is sophisticated simple. When I read that, I decided to steal the same line for the concept of Oteque.
The cuisine we serve is me on a plate. I travel so much, so there is a bit of everything—globalisation has made its way into the kitchen too! However, we are situated in Rio de Janeiro, by the sea, so I try to use a lot of fresh fish and seafood. We’re in a warm town, and people are trying to eat cleaner, so I don’t do anything too heavy with lots of cream, butter, reduced sauces, and starchy carbohydrates. We keep things clean and fresh with lots of acidity and texture.
I try to take a minimalistic, Japanese approach in terms of execution. Food has to speak for itself. In Japan, at top sushi places, what you’ll find is a clean wooden counter and a chef in white that just serves you fresh fish and rice, and it’s pure perfection. Nature has made ingredients perfect and I believe we shouldn’t fiddle too much with produce.
How did you end up coming to Sabayon at EQ?
The hotel invited me last October, telling me they liked what I was doing and would like to invite a chef they admired to cook at Sabayon for their fifth anniversary. I signed the contract last November, and now I’m finally here, a year later!
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How did you come up with the menu you wanted to showcase in Malaysia?
The idea was to bring the Oteque experience to Kuala Lumpur. I brought over 200 kg of food into the country, and for that I need to thank the Brazilian embassy who were a great help. I wanted to bring some signature dishes from Oteque people enjoyed, working with the ingredients I was able to bring with me.
I brought a selection of nuts which are all raw and fresh with a mild, sweet taste. I also brought real acai from the Amazon that arrived at the restaurant two days before I arrived. It tastes really fresh, with a powerful, earthy flavour.
I also brought some tucupi from my supplier, which is the juice that remains after the process of making manioc (cassava) flour. It is actually poisonous when raw, and needs to undergo a process that lasts three days involving cooking and fermentation. To me, it is one of the most delicious flavours.
Is there a specific dish you are excited to present to diners?
Definitely the dish of coral grouper with grilled leeks and tucupi sauce. Tucupi is a flavour unique to Brazil that is difficult to find anywhere else. Everyone who I have had the pleasure to see try it for the first time has been impressed!
What do you hope to achieve during your time here?
Not many people have the opportunity to travel to Brazil, so I want to bring a few flavours from Brazil to the people in Kuala Lumpur. I would also like to bring a taste of home to the Brazilian community living here.
What would you recommend when travelling to Brazil for food lovers?
Don’t just stay between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, but try to explore other states too. I personally recommend Minas Gerais, which has an incredibly strong food culture. It is a beautiful state with green mountains and it is where I want to retire, with a beautiful house, fishing by the river with my dogs.
What do you personally hope for in the future?
I have a theory of constant improvement each day, even if it is only by one per cent, so I hope we can do that. The restaurant business is tough, and it requires constant goal setting. Many restaurants don’t break the five year mark, so I am proud that Oteque has been around for six years.
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Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
