For saké’s sake: Meet Danny Leong, Malaysia’s first Master Saké Sommelier

Upon introduction, Leong was filled with the same curiosity he had about wines regarding the drink’s ability to pair well with a range of food. “How could a beverage that looks like water be so complex in the flavours it offers?,” says Leong. “I had so many of these kinds of questions, which made me want to learn about how sakés are made, how their taste profiles change with different brewing methods and more. I ultimately wanted to share that knowledge with fellow Malaysians.”

However, to his disappointment, many of Leong’s queries went unanswered. “There were hardly any people around me knowledgeable enough to answer the many questions I had regarding the simple looking but highly complex and interesting flavours of different sakés,” recalls Leong. “I had no choice but to go to the source of production, Japan, to study and learn as much as possible myself.”

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Pursuing an education in saké took Leong to cities like Tokyo, Hong Kong, and London, where he enrolled in different professional saké courses. “I passed all the different exams until I reached the highest level the saké program could offer,” details Leong. “My journey in saké education has been an adventure that helped me view saké in another light and even learn how people of different nationalities and cultures perceive aromas and flavours in distinct ways.”

As simple and delightful as Leong makes it sound, becoming a Master Saké Sommelier comes with its challenges, namely the sheer amount of qualifications one has to possess before earning the right to use the post-nominals “M.S.S.”. “To be eligible to sit for the Master Saké Sommelier exam offered by the Saké Sommelier Association (SSA), one needs to have at least the Advanced Saké Sommelier Certification (SSA) or the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level 3 Award in Saké, the Advance Saké Professional by the Saké Education Council or the International Kikisakeshi by the Saké Service Institute (SSI).,” explains Leong. “Candidates will be have to pass the theory, blind tasting and service exams.

Yet, having qualifications on paper isn’t all that makes a good sommelier. Leong says a good sommelier has vast saké knowledge, good tasting abilities, and service skills. “A good sommelier should try to understand every guest's dining needs and preferences and convey the information back to the kitchen accordingly,” states Leong. “Being trained in the understanding of aromas and flavours, the sommelier should be able to recommend dishes and beverage pairings to the guests.”

To Leong, pairing sakés with a wide variety of food is a benchmark of skill and something that he flags with high importance. “The pairing of food with beverages, including saké, is one that is highly complicated yet deeply satisfying when done right,” shares Leong. “A successful pairing requires good knowledge of the different types of saké or beverage and the specific dish intended for the pairing. It is not as straightforward as pairing say red wines with red meat or strong umami sakés with cheese.”

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Even when pairing a drink with a specific protein, differences in preparation and serving make an impact on your beverage of choice. “Take red meat for example: a medium rare steak enjoyed with black pepper sauce has a very different overall flavour profile compared to a beef stew which may contain red wine, tomato sauce and herbs,” elaborates Leong. “These factors affect the compatibility of a beverage and can determine whether it will enhance or diminish the dining experience altogether.”

“Once, a saké lover asked me whether I could pair saké with bak kut teh,” continues Leong. “My reply was ‘sure, but first, tell me if you’re referring to the KL, Klang, Johor Bahru or Singaporean version of bak kut teh?’ This shows that the importance of understanding the different nuances in cuisines is crucial when it comes to beverage pairing.”

To Leong, being a saké sommelier is also about guiding people from different backgrounds to ensure they have a positive experience with saké. “Years back, I was in the same position as most consumers, needing someone with good knowledge and understanding of saké to guide me and explain the intricacies of saké,” reminisces Leong. “Having achieved the Master Saké Sommelier qualification besides many others, I can now guide consumers helping them to learn more about sakés whether they are a beginner or a saké connoisseur.”

With his knowledge of the different types of saké and their potential to elevate dining experiences, Leong has made it his mission to spread the love for Japanese alcohol around our country. “Malaysians’ interest in saké is definitely building up due to the high number of Japanese restaurants around,” beams Leong. “I see a lot of excited consumers wanting to know more about the drink and how best to enjoy it, especially whether to enjoy it chilled or hot.”

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In his teachings, Leong emphasises that saké is a drink transcending cuisines. “There is so much more to saké than just being a Japanese restaurant drink,” asserts Leong. “I have been holding dining events pairing saké with Chinese, Italian, French, Spanish, Indian cuisines, and more to help consumers realise that many positive experiences await them as their saké journey progresses.”

It is clear by the time our conversation ends that Leong finds true joy in his career. Being a saké sommelier is more than just a job that helps him earn his keep. “Seeing different people making new discoveries in saké and sharing their experiences with me brings a certain kind of satisfaction and joy to me,” smiles Leong. “I also may already have the most saké qualifications in Malaysia, but that will not stop me from pursuing more knowledge as the global saké industry continues to progress. As the saying goes, it's the journey that matters, not the destination.”

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