Cover Jaan by Kirk Westaway senior sommelier, Kathyrn Wong
Jaan by Kirk Westaway senior sommelier, Kathyrn Wong
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The bubbly and friendly senior sommelier at this two-Michelin-starred modern British restaurant tells us what sparked her passion in wines and the best bottle to bring to a dinner party
Kathryn Wong’s passion for wine was sparked by a family vacation in Western Australia, home to some of the world’s most extraordinary wine regions. She joined a local winery tour near Margaret River where she tried a refreshing riesling that inspired her to learn more about the complex world of wines.
Thus, she enrolled at the University of Taylor in Malaysia to expand her knowledge and spent the early years of her career working at notable hotels, including Hilton Kuala Lumpur and Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur.
Stepping out of her comfort zone, she moved to Singapore and furthered her career as the senior sommelier at two-Michelin-starred Jaan by Kirk Westaway. Here, she helps the head sommelier curate the restaurant’s impressive wine programmes.
We chatted with Wong to learn more about her choice of pours and her wine collection.
Read more: Why you need to revisit Jaan by Kirk Westaway in 2023
An early (in your career) wine that made you go ‘Wow! (I want to be a somm)’?
Kathryn Wong (KW): Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive Pinot Gris 2008. This is one of the first whites from Alsace that gave me the epiphany that Alsatian wines can be very complex and have varying styles besides the dry version. This is a late-harvest white wine exuding notes of honey, candied fruits, plums with toasted and nutty aromas that has great minerality. This wine evolves beautifully in the glass, and it just captivates you more with every sip.
Most memorable pour?
KW: Paul Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1991. This is one of the wines that I sold at my first workplace. There is a great story behind the creation of this wine. The La Chapelle is associated to a hermit warrior that lived up at the chapelle after the war. The vineyard in that plot of land is steep and well prized for its quality of wine that is produced. The 1991 is a delicate vintage but with the expertise of the winemaker, Paul Jaboulet, the wine has great resilience and the potential to age. It has a very earthy and meaty character with subtle hints of spice, intricate tannins and acidity.
In case you missed it: By the Glass: Pangium’s Helen Chong shares her favourite wines to drink now
Tipple for a Tuesday?
KW: Markus Molitor, Graacher Himmelreich, Pinot Noir, Mosel, Germany 2017. This is one of my latest discoveries that I came across at a wine tasting. The vintage itself is from one of the better years for Mosel region. This is an elegant red wine with a vibrant acidity and juicy red fruits of raspberry, strawberry and cranberry. It also goes quite nicely with Chinese foods like Peking duck.
Sun, sea and…
KW: Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling. This wine brings back fond memories of my trip to the Barossa and Eden Valley wine regions in 2017. It was a picturesque and eye-opening trip. This riesling is one of my favourite Rieslings, as it has vibrant aromas of fine dried herbs, white flowers, lemon, lime, candied oranges. It also has a long and rich body with some accents of grapefruit and lime alongside the refreshing acidity and minerality. This makes it an enjoyable wine to have on its own or with some smoked meat pizza, which I had at one of the dinners during the trip.
Wine of the moment?
KW: Querciabella Camartina 1999 and Trimbach Frederic Emile 2013. Querciabella Camartina is a rare find and is still relatively unknown for most wine drinkers. It is from one of the wineries located in the Tuscan region in Italy. This wine is known as a Super Tuscan, and is made using a blend of cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese, grown with biodynamic and organic viticulture in mind. It has a velvety texture and a meaty impression in terms of tannin structure. The nose has a lovely bouquet of red fruits, figs, raisins, prune, oak, vanilla, dark chocolate, coffee and tobacco. It even has an exquisite complexity and longevity that just captivates you even more in every mouthful.
Trimbach Frederic Emile 2013 is a complex white with an intense body, interspersed with notes of white flowers, orange peel, peach, apricot, nectarine. It ends with an energetic acidity.
What you wish a customer would order?
KW: Trimbach Clos St Hune 2016. This is one of the flagship wines from Trimbach and the plot of Clos St Hune. It is from one of the steepest slopes and the wine is only made in the best years of Alsace. It is a rare bottle of wine to locate as it is highly sought after for all wine lovers and collectors.
What you love to recommend to guests?
KW: Thibaud Boudignon Clos de la Hutte, Savennières, Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc. This is one of the wines that I came across from one of my tastings, and it was from a specific site in the Savennieres. It is really an invigorating wine with a lovely bouquet of honeysuckle, honeycomb, honey, almond, marzipan, apricot and green apples .
A special something?
KW: Marcel Deiss, Berckem, Alsace—a blend of 13 grape varieties. There is more to discover in the region of Alsace and I came across this winery that is known to make Alsatian whites from blending numerous grape varieties in a singular cuvée. This particular wine is made of 13 grape varieties and the majority of it consists of riesling (one of my favourite varietals). This wine has this hypnotising bouquet of jasmine, orange blossoms, apricot, peaches, nectarine, honeycomb and candied lemon, and has a vibrant acidity and a long and gentle finish.
Bottle to bring to a dinner party?
KW: Giacomo Conterno, Vigna Francia, Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy. It is a very versatile red wine with an inviting bouquet of rose petals, violets, prunes and plums, and enhanced by its silky tannins and long acidity. This wine is one of the latest ventures created by the Conterno family, who well known for the barolo and barbaresco wines.
What’s in your cellar?
KW: Roger Pouillon et Fils, Grande Vallée Extra Brut, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace Grand Cru Brand, Vielle Vignes, Riesling 2010. For now, I only have these two wines as I am slowly building up my collection.
I started off Roger Pouillon because it is a grower champagne have grown very fondly off. This is one of its s new cuvées that wine lovers should know, as it showcases the wine makers experimenting with more styles. The champagne styles are complex, and blends three authorises grape varieties from the surrounding Valle De La Marne. This gives the bubbly an aromatic profile of white flowers, zesty peel of tangerine, mandarin oranges and lemons. It showcases an intense voluptuous body from the yeast ageing, which also gives the creamy texture and brioche-like characteristics. It’s a versatile champagne to go with any cuisine.
The Domaine Zind- Humbrecht Alsace Grand Cru Vielle Vignes is a bottle that I had been wanting to acquire and collect since it comes from one of my favourite cru plots. It showcases riesling as a richer and more complex expression, and is just pure harmony of flavours.
What would you want to be your last (final) glass?
KW: Krug Grande Cuvée Brut 164eme. Krug is a champagne I came across during my first few years as a junior sommelier in Kuala Lumpur. A guest shared the champagne with me, and it had such finesse and elegance.
If not wine, then what?
KW: Asahi Beer. It’s one of my favourite beers as it is made in Japan. I have fond memories of spending happy times with my friends over some yakitori dishes and beer.
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Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.
