Cover Shinji Fukuyo is the fifth individual to ever hold the prestigious title of chief blender at The House of Suntory (Photo: The House of Suntory)
Shinji Fukuyo is the fifth individual to ever hold the prestigious title of chief blender at The House of Suntory (Photo: The House of Suntory)
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A deep dive into the craftsmanship behind Japanese whisky
Founded in 1923 by Shinjiro Torii, The House of Suntory, the pioneer of Japanese whisky, recently celebrated its 100th anniversary. Its Yamazaki Distillery was the first whisky distillery in Japan and began with a dream to create a spirit that pays homage to Japanese craftsmanship.
Shinji Fukuyo was named chief blender of The House of Suntory in 2009 and is the fifth individual ever to hold the prestigious title. Fukuyo began his journey at Suntory in 1984 before spending four years in Scotland to improve his knowledge of whisky-making techniques. Before he was appointed chief blender, he was the general manager of the whisky production division at the Yamazaki Distillery.
We speak to Fukuyo about the intricacies of Japanese whisky and what sets it apart from other spirits.
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Above The Yamazaki Distillery was the first whisky distillery in Japan
The Yamazaki Distillery was the first whisky distillery in Japan
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What led you to work at The House of Suntory?
I began my whisky career in 1984 after graduating from university. A professor of mine recommended I find a job at The House of Suntory, and I was placed at the Hakushu Distillery. I was in charge of whisky production and remained there for eight years, but after I became a blender, I moved to the Yamazaki Distillery.
Tell me about the process of crafting whisky
Whisky is made from raw materials such as water, malt, and yeast, which all undergo a process to make wort. This then undergoes fermentation to produce alcohol. The alcohol is then distilled to purify and extract the wort, before it is placed into barrels to mature. It is then blended to create the final product.
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Above Shinji Fukuyo is The House of Suntory’s fifth generation chief blender
Shinji Fukuyo is The House of Suntory’s fifth generation chief blender
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What sets Japanese whisky apart from its Scottish counterpart?
The Japanese learned to make whisky from the Scottish almost a hundred years ago. The Scottish style is more smoky and peaty, which the Japanese were not accustomed to. Japanese cuisine is light and simple, so a more gentle spirit was preferred.
Furthermore, Suntory Whisky is made in Japan, where it is matured for many years. The climate and water of the country create a very different aroma and flavour in the whisky. We chose the location of our distillery based on the natural environment and quality of water that is vital in whisky production.
What makes high quality whisky?
The key is in the quality of water, the natural environment, and our sensitive craftsmanship. The Yamazaki Distillery uses pure, natural water, which has been nurtured over many years to produce a delicate spirit. The natural environment and climate, in which the dynamic changes of the four seasons, including humid, hot summers and dry, cold winters, give the whisky a deep sense of maturity.
The quality of whisky is experienced in the flavour and aroma that is developed over time by producing a rich distillate from good raw materials and placing it in high quality casks. Each step in the process is meticulously carried out, and whiskies are blended in a skilful balance.
Above Japanese craftsmanship is at the core of The House of Suntory's operations
Japanese craftsmanship is at the core of The House of Suntory's operations
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What is the role of a whisky blender?
In Scotland, it is still a tradition to obtain a wide variety of whiskies by exchanging or trading them amongst the many distilleries in the country, of which there are over a hundred. In Japan, there are only a few distilleries so this is not possible.
In pursuit of the ideal flavour, it became necessary to create many unique whiskies at a single distillery. It is the job of the blender to combine various types of whisky in a skilful balance to bring out the harmony of flavours and aroma, as they are the last barrier before the final product.
As a whisky blender, what measures must you take to preserve your palate?
I have personal rules that I adhere to. As a blender, I find it important to make conscious decisions. I wake up early each morning and train at the same time. As long as I have been at the Yamazaki Distillery, I have had the same lunch—soba noodles, which is not too overpowering. This is not just for my palate, but I feel keeping consistent and regulated helps me make the best decisions.
Above Rows of barrels line the distillery
Rows of barrels line the distillery
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How do you enjoy whisky?
If I drink at home, I concentrate on enjoying the whisky rather than drinking it in conversation or watching television. I make sure I am comfortable and relaxed before I enjoy a drink.
Which whisky do you think is your masterpiece?
Each blend is like a child of mine, so I can’t choose between them! Every time I create a new liquid, it has its own story. For instance, the Suntory World Whisky Ao is a blend of the world’s five major whiskies—Irish, Scotch, American, Canadian, and Japanese—totally different ideas coming together.
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Above The House of Suntory celebrates a century of expert whisky making
The House of Suntory celebrates a century of expert whisky making
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As The House of Suntory celebrates its 100th anniversary, what comes next?
Suntory is a founding family owned company that is focused on quality and greatness. That is what we have done over the last century and what we will continue to do. We plan to constantly innovate to achieve a new, better taste.
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Images: The House of Suntory
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
