Emphatically seasonal in ethos, the menu changes every month so when Tatler visited in January, Otomo’s first course was his take on Osechi-ryōri, a traditional Japanese dish eaten to celebrate the New Year. This extremely photogenic course comprising artfully arranged bites including pickled grapes, abalone and a two layered 'cake' of the egg white and yolk, shows off the chef's visual flair, 

Hot on its heels is the sashimi course, an exercise in decadence with a crispy nori wrapping a row of pan-shell scallops, uni and caviar, marinated then quickly aburi (seared) for the perfect mouthful. 

Next is the Yakimono or grilled course, which is whimsically named Hoba Yaki after the Hoba (magnolia) leaf where the the ingredients are grilled on. The grilled shirako (cod milt), foie gras, mushroom and miso are an imaginative combination that plays up the creaminess of the shirako against the umami rich miso cloaked in smokiness of the hoba leaf. 

We're then served a single deep fried green fish, which come with a wedge of Japanese lime, its austere appearance belying its confidence. Each bite is light as air and emphases the crisp freshness of the seafood.

For the hot course comes another dish that appears unassuming at first. A piping hot serving of crab chawan mushi, this soon reveals itself to be a hug in a bowl—comforting, familiar yet delightful with a delicate texture and subtly aromatic with yuzu peel.

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If the hot dish is an elegant lady, the Special Menu dish is an unapologetically sexy siren. It arrives in a clay pot and one is treated to an intoxicating fragrance upon the lifting the lid.

A dish of lobster topped with an unctuous uni and prawn sauce seasoned with Akami salt, this bold dish is an ode to Ootomo’s favourite local dish, the chilli crab. To ensure none of that precious sauce goes to waste, some bread is thoughtfully served on the side.

The next Aemono course is a refreshing palate cleanser of bright flavours of fresh mozoku (seaweed), ikura and wasabi

A procession of exquisitely crafted sushi then graces our table, ranging from dry aged tuna (the chef’s speciality) to flounder marinated with ponzu. Each piece is a study in contrast and harmony of texture and taste, Ootomo has calibrated the flavours to suit local palettes that lean towards stronger flavours. 

In true Kappo style, where bantering with chef is part of the experience, the chef does not disappoint with witty one-liners and anecdotes about the food including explaining how the yellow tail fish has been prepared with shoyu and Japanese yellow mustard the way it has always been down in his hometown, and how the castella egg needs to be slow cooked with yam and prawn for two hours.

Rounding off the cooked dishes is a traditional New Year soup. A celebratory dish of clear consommé studded with yellow tail prawn, daikon and mochi, the lucid flavours set the stage for the simplicity of the dessert course.

A slice of crown melon and melon-flavoured jelly may not sound like an impressive ending but it captures Otomo and Tenryu’s ethos succinctly—the finest of seasonal produce delivered with precise technique, coupled with knowledge of when to exercise restraint and when to pull out the stops.

When securing your slot at Tenryu, you are politely informed that the meal will take at least two hours. And while 10 courses may test the patience of even the most dedicated gourmand, the pacing of the meal and Otomo’s exuberance creations made this Kappo-style meal nothing short of captivating.

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