For a truly authentic execution of her vision for Deo Gracias, she knew she needed to work with a talented chef who shared her passion for delivering fun Spanish cuisine and the most enjoyable experience. Chef Sison was introduced to chef Alex de Hoyo Gomez by an industry peer and everything just clicked. “We wanted to honour the traditional but uplift the experience. Chef de Hoyo Gomez is able to provide this authenticity and his passion for his craft is remarkable,” she says. “Because our common ground is good food and the need to enjoy the dining experience, I would say, we are able to work well together because we understand what we want to deliver to our guests.  From the menu development to curating our different offers, we combine the best ideas and ensure that the vision is brought to life.”

This vision started pre-pandemic, and like most businesses that were faced with this strange and uncertain situation, Deo Gracias suffered critical delays in construction and other vital factors. Under the orchestration of interior designer Eric Paras, the mid-20th century residence was painstakingly restored while combining new fixtures and finishes evoking a more current look as well as a fun and spacious atmosphere echoing their vision of bringing Spain to Manila.

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This vivacious vibe spills over to the food that is heavily infused with the rich culinary culture chef Alex grew up with in Burgos, the historic capital of Castile and León just outside of Basque country. “But, my mom is from Bilbao and she taught me to always respect the freshness of the ingredients,” chef de Hoyo Gomez narrates. “From her, I also learned how to respect our roots and honour traditional techniques. In my professional life as a chef, this also meant that I would never compromise on the quality of ingredients and the manner in which dishes are prepared, and this is something that chef Sison and I were in agreement from the very first time we started talking.”

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There were definitely no compromises made here, not in their croquetas liquidas de queso which literally oozes out cream and melted Idiazabal cheese. Lovers of Spanish food know that a good croqueta is never filled with mashed potato or any other extender, only bechamel gingerly balled up and rolled in seasoned bread crumbs. Chef de Joyo Gomez's version is shaped in perfect rectangles and drizzled with apple jam, giving the delicate creaminess of the croquetas a jolt of freshness. His steak tartare is slightly warmed and perched atop buttery brioche, flavoured intensely with a roasted garlic sauce and toasted shallots.

They have a wide selection of embutidos and cheeses here that are displayed at their tienda with other Spanish products, and these are utilised extensively throughout their menu. But, the seafood dishes here are the most precise embodiment of the unyielding attention to detail coupled with the “Spanish hedonism” both chefs are hoping to display at Deo Gracias. The Arroz del Senyoret is a true celebration of the sea’s bounty with cuttlefish, prawns, and maya-maya fillet cradled in flavorful rice and a generous drizzle of alioli. Their perfectly-grilled octopus tentacles and smokey chistorra come together harmoniously over a delicate potato foam. Both rice dish and pulpo show an impressive grasp of classical technique given a festive and modern twist, demonstrating how glorious food can be when a vision is executed as promised.

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When asked what separates Deo Gracias from the rest, chef de Hoyo Gomez offers an answer that is both diplomatic and transcendental. “It is not fair to compare because all the Spanish concepts here offer different Spanish varieties,”  We are a Spanish restaurant and we want the guest to feel the Spanish vibe in everything around from the moment they enter the door.” He continues, “Every opportunity is time to give loved ones a hug. We may not be able to literally do this now but then there is always a reason to keep in touch with friends and family, and food is almost always at the centre.”

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