Helm's New Menu: Here's What to Expect From Chef Josh Boutwood

Chef Josh Boutwood takes you across the world, inspired by Magellan's journey to the Philippines, with his new menu at Helm

I take my designated seat in the dimly lit room and get served a printout of the world map with no labels at all. Not a single word to offer the slightest hint. Even chef Josh Boutwood himself, when asked, didn't want to reveal the theme until wine and snacks were served. It didn't matter anyway because after having several of his thematic tasting menus, I knew that his current multi-course meal would again take me places.

And it successfully did, historically, as it took inspiration from Magellan's voyage to the Philippines. It was a journey that took 1080 days compressed by Boutwood in just two delicious hours over ten mouthwatering bites. In a nutshell, it was an international menu, with each dish composed of flavours and ingredients from a country Magellan visited sewn altogether by the ingenuity of the talented chef.

The only exceptions from the theme were the starters—tuna tartare pumped inside a tubular savoury wafer, cucumber sticks to be dragged in a liver parfait, and a smoked quail egg with the most delicate yolk seasoned simply with salt and vinegar. They made for snacks that may not have declared loud punctuation but still managed to leave a good impression.

The world tour that proceeded after this started in Ferdinand Magellan’s birthplace. He sailed on behalf of Spain but was Portuguese by nationality, and so as a fitting introduction to the gastronomic tribute for the intrepid explorer, Josh kicked us off with a sphere of bacalao, akin to a croquette. It sat on a bed of blanched garlic sauce with anchovy and parsley oil.

It was followed by a serving of his version of Spanish paella that came with a top hat of rice crackers and a delicate film of lardo spread over a scoop of rich tomato-infused rice.

See also: Where to Order Ceviche

Above Bacalao in a pool of blanched garlic sauce

Above Paella with lardo

His take on Canary Islands involved guest participation. Marble potatoes had to be dragged into a pool of red and green mojo salsas before being popped into the mouth. It ate like patatas bravas but looked nothing like it.

Recognised for his breads (it became more apparent during the pandemic when his sourdough loaves would sell out), Boutwood’s Brazil-inspired dish is a nod to their famous pao de queijo. But instead of its traditional round mould, the kooky chef turned to a British side dish and created a cheesy bread in the form of a Yorkshire pudding.

Even Magellan’s water trail along the Pacific Ocean was immortalised into a crab fat chawanmushi with bites of abalone. It was fragile in form but definitely not in flavour.

Photo 1 of 3 Potato with two mojo salsas

Photo 2 of 3 Pan de queijo-yorkshire pudding hybrid

Photo 3 of 3 Crab fat chawanmushi

His detour to Guam came as fork tender pork belly with a rich pork trotter sauce and a dollop of fermented vegetable paste for a pop of umami.

It is a rare chance to have fish go before a heavier protein like pork in a tasting menu, but Josh has a habit of breaking norms and making things work based on his own terms. In this circumstance, he has once again proven that the Philippine plate—a slender piece of lapu-lapu (history check!) with a crisp bronzed skin dipping its toe in a pool of burnt onion and lemongrass tea—deserved its rightful spot in the progression.

See you: Where to Order Pavlova

Above Lapu-lapu with lemongrass tea

Above Pork belly with pork trotter sauce

Magellan failed to finish his circumnavigation as he was killed during a tribal duel on Mactan Island. But there were a few survivors (“Only 1 ship and 18 men returned out of the respective 5 and 270,” said Boutwood.) who managed to continue their expedition. And this was acknowledged by the chef by capping the meal with a melva cake with apricot jam, and a quenelle of crema Catalana ice cream with shards of churros.

A menu can only say so much about the food. In Helm’s case, it didn’t offer much at all. But the dishes, especially when crafted with a playful mind reigned with simplicity like that of Josh’s, can say a whole lot beyond what words can—more than history even.

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Tatler Asia

Helm's New Menu: Here's What to Expect From Chef Josh Boutwood