Cover A Moor-influenced Jaffna Biriyani prepared by Iswaran
A Moor-influenced Jaffna Biriyani prepared by Iswaran
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We speak to chef and author Indra Iswaran about the intricacies of Sri Lankan cuisine
Born in Ipoh, Perak to parents of Jaffna Tamil origin, Indra Iswaran is the author of the book They Came from Jaffna, the winner of the Gourmand World Cookbook awards in 2020. Iswaran began her culinary journey when she lived in Oxford, England as a result of missing Jaffna cuisine, which led her to explore flavours based on memories of the food she enjoyed during her childhood.
Now based in Singapore, Iswaran's favourite dish to share with family and friends is her Jaffna spice cutlets, made using a spice recipe passed down for many generations. Advocating for the preservation of authentic Sri Lankan cuisine, the award-winning author hopes to pass on the true aromas, tastes and flavours of age-old recipes through her cookbook.
Read on to learn five little known facts about Sri Lankan cuisine that Iswaran shares with Tatler.
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Above Indra Iswaran, award-winning cookbook author and chef
Indra Iswaran, award-winning cookbook author and chef
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1. A cuisine with many influences
Above A British colonial Jaffna mulligatawny soup, prepared by Iswaran
A British colonial Jaffna mulligatawny soup, prepared by Iswaran
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There are many cultures that have influenced the narrative of Sri Lankan cuisine. "We can divide Sri Lankan cuisine into two categories—Jaffna Tamil and Sinhalese cuisine. It can then be broken down into Moor, Portuguese, Dutch, British, Chinese and Malay influences. Much of Sri Lankan cuisine originates from migrant traders."
Iswaran gives the example of the introduction of various herbs and spices. "Pandan and serai were introduced to Sri Lankan cuisine by Malays who came with the Dutch and the British. Also, the original spice used to give heat to Sri Lankan dishes was pepper. Only after the Portuguese introduction of chilli from Mexico did Sri Lanka become a chilli-growing region."
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2. Differences lie in the way curries are prepared
Above Iswaran's fish buns, made with a Sri Lankan fish and potato curry wrapped in a Portuguese-influenced bun
Iswaran's fish buns, made with a Sri Lankan fish and potato curry wrapped in a Portuguese-influenced bun
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The author explains that the basic difference between Jaffna Tamil cuisine and Singhalese cuisine can be observed through curry preparation.
"Singhalese curries contain more black pepper in the masala blend, while Tamil curries contain more chilli. Also, the gravy in Singhalese curries are thinner as opposed to thicker Tamil curries. However, both contain coconut milk."
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3. Rice and coconut are staples
Above Lamprais, a Dutch Burgher-influenced dish that is a favourite Sunday meal in Sri Lanka, prepared by Iswaran
Lamprais, a Dutch Burgher-influenced dish that is a favourite Sunday meal in Sri Lanka, prepared by Iswaran
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Rice, rice flour and coconut oil are staples in Sri Lankan cuisine. "Other than rice, rice-based carbohydrates are also common such as iddiyappam (string hoppers), puttumayam (steamed rice noodle pancakes), puttu (steamed rice cylinders) and appam (fermented rice batter pancakes). Black lentils mixed with rice is another staple."
She adds: "Coconut oil is commonly used as a fat since coconut is common in Sri Lanka. The Jaffna Tamils also use gingelly oil (sesame seed oil) as a base for curries, especially vegetarian ones."
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4. Three types of sugar bases
Above A cupcake from Iswaran's mother’s recipe
A cupcake from Iswaran's mother’s recipe
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Iswaran explains that there are three unique sugars that provide sweetness for many sweet and savoury dishes in Sri Lankan cuisine. "Coconut palm, palmyra palm and kitul palm are the three sugar bases. Palmyra palm is mostly found in the Jaffna region."
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5. Real cinnamon is found in Sri Lanka
Above Iswaran holding an appam
Iswaran holding an appam
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While real cinnamon is grown in Sri Lanka, high-quality cinnamon can also be found in Kerala, India. "Other than cinnamon, other spices in the cuisine were introduced via the spice route and by traders who settled in the various regions of Sri Lanka. The earliest recorded settlers were found in and around Mannar and Jaffna regions, one of the earliest known trade ports."
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Credits
Images: Indra Iswaran
About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
