Cover Try the parrot shot for your next wrist shot, which uses a higher angle for a richer composition with more depth (Photo: Verne Ho)

Want to up your social media game? Photographer Verne Ho shares his top tips for nailing the perfect wrist shot

Known for his stunning Instagram feed of watch photos (his account, @watchstudies, boasts more than 267,000 followers), photographer Verne Ho is a go‑to resource among the watch community for tutorials on how to achieve such images. Combining his background in design and creative direction with his love of timepieces, Ho is able to bring a unique perspective to watch photography and make it more accessible for everyday enthusiasts.

One of the most popular and common watch photography styles, especially on social media, is a wrist shot. “As watch owners, a wrist shot represents one of the most relatable ways you interact with your watch. It engages the audience by putting them in the shoes of the watch owner and giving them a more intimate view of what it looks and feels like to have a particular watch on the wrist. It’s also one of the easiest shots to execute and the one you can do from nearly any location,” explains Ho.

While simple in theory, a good wrist shot is not always easy to attain. Here, Ho shares his expert tips for acing it.

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Above Placing items you would naturally find in your surroundings, such as books, in the background adds definition to a wrist shot (Photo: Verne Ho)

1. Dress for Success

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Above Photographer Verne Ho (Photo: Hosanna Swee-Chng)

Clothing with texture, folds and complementary colours go a long way in ensuring a nice shot. Accessories such as rings and bracelets can also have a strong visual impact. In the background, use items you’d naturally find in your surroundings to give more definition to your story, such as books, coffee cups and watch accessories.

2. Set the Scene

If you’re shooting with the camera on your phone, optimise the settings:

Shoot RAW: If your phone allows, opt to shoot in a RAW format, which lets you capture and retain more data so that you have more to work with when you’re editing.

Lower the exposure: Most mobile phone cameras are optimised for shooting bright and vibrant photos, which can result in overexposed areas, especially on reflective surfaces such as watch cases. To minimise the risk of this, shoot “darker” by lowering the exposure slightly.

Enable the camera grid and level: Using both of these features while shooting will make it a lot easier to compose your shots.

Zoom in: Where possible, use your camera’s “zoomed in” lenses (typically labelled “2x”, “3x”, “5x”, et cetera). Most mobile phone cameras default to a wide‑angle lens (typically labelled “1x”), which can distort the proportions of what you’re shooting. Your device’s zoom modes will usually utilise different lenses that have less distortion.

Turn off macro mode: Beware of your camera’s macro mode turning on automatically while shooting (especially when you’re not trying to shoot a macro photo). You may find macro settings under your device’s camera settings and while you’re shooting.

Turn off portrait mode: While computational photography becomes increasingly impressive in modern devices, special camera modes such as portrait mode still haven’t matured to a point where they can reliably produce appealing results.

3. Light it Up

Even if you don’t have access to lighting equipment and studio environments, it’s still possible to manage lighting in your environment for the best possible photos. Here are some simple pointers to getting the most out of the lighting, wherever you are:

Natural lighting is always better than indoor lighting: Where possible, leverage daylight to light your shot. It’s a “cleaner” source of light relative to indoor lighting such as lamps and ceiling lights, which can cast unwanted yellow, orange or blue tones on your photos.

Avoid direct sunlight or lighting: Lighting is most appealing for photography when it’s soft and diffused. Avoid standing directly in the path of the bright sun or a light fixture, as doing so will cast dark shadows over your photo.

Experiment with angles: Watches are inherently reflective objects. If you’re struggling with reflections off the watch case or crystal, try rotating your wrist, body and camera to find alternate angles where reflections are more manageable.

4. Bird’s‑Eye View

A “parrot shot” (a term coined and popularised by Ho denoting a style of wrist shot that mimics the perspective of a parrot sitting on one’s shoulder, looking down at one’s watch as one checks the time) offers a richer composition with more depth, creating a more engaging way to showcase your favourite timepiece. There are three main things to note when taking such a shot:

The placement of your subject: First, lift your watch‑wearing wrist so that it is parallel to the ground, then bring it in towards your torso. Your arm should be nearly touching your torso or your clothing.

The placement of your camera: Your camera should be held at the shoulder—whether it’s the one on the same side as the hand holding the camera or the opposite doesn’t matter. Experiment and settle on the position based on comfort and the desired angle.

The angle of the shot: Point your camera down the length of your body towards the watch. Your camera should be able to catch hints of the folds in your clothing between your shoulder and wrist. This is what creates depth and what leads the eyes towards the watch.

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Annabel Tan
Editor, Watches and Jewellery, Tatler Singapore
Tatler Asia

Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.