Cover Louis Vuitton has introduced four time-only Escale models
Louis Vuitton has introduced four time-only Escale models
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Matthieu Hegi, the artistic director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, delves into the creative journey behind the Maison’s latest Escale watches
A decade ago, Louis Vuitton launched the first Escale Worldtime, a travel watch with a colourful world time display on the dial, decorated with hand‑painted flags that separate the abbreviated names of cities. Since then, the Escale has lent itself to age‑old métiers d’art techniques such as enamelling, marquetry, engraving and gem‑setting that bring to life elaborate Asian motifs—think bamboo, koi and dragons. Over the last decade, the Escale collection has come to embody the highest echelons of haute horlogerie, showcasing in‑house complications and savoir faire.
This year, on its tenth anniversary, the Escale returns with a pared‑down, classic time‑only model that underscores the Maison’s dedication to craftsmanship, precision and timeless design. A time‑only watch simply displays the time, with no additional complications. “To explain the decision to create a time‑only watch, we have to go back to 2013,” says Matthieu Hegi, the artistic director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Maison’s watchmaking manufacture, in an interview with Tatler Singapore.
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Above Matthieu Hegi, the artistic director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
Matthieu Hegi, the artistic director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
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“I was looking at my first sketches from back then—it’s been a really long time since I looked at them—and was mesmerised to realise that they looked very much like the latest Escale designs. Everyone who saw the watch at the time felt that it was an obvious watch to have in our collection and it is still the case today. It’s a watch that really is timeless, elegant, proportionate, and it’ll become a pillar in our collection. And for all these reasons, we decided to introduce it as a time‑only piece,” he explains.
In those original sketches from 2013, Hegi had conceptualised the Escale with a curved sapphire crystal on the case. This rounded form, however, was eschewed for a flatter sapphire glass to complement the world time display—in order for the vibrant hues of the flags to stand out, they needed to be as close to the sapphire as possible.
Above Louis Vuitton’s new Escale watches in rose gold feature centre dials that call back to the Maison’s Monogram canvas
Louis Vuitton’s new Escale watches in rose gold feature centre dials that call back to the Maison’s Monogram canvas
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Now, the Escale has come full circle with its latest iteration: a pure, three‑hand timepiece with a curved sapphire glass. Creating a time‑only watch may seem straightforward, but Hegi emphasises the complexity behind this minimalist approach. “Less is more, and more is more complex,” he notes, adding that his quest for perfect proportions and balance demanded meticulous attention to detail. “Every millimetre counts on a watch because it’s like architecture on the wrist. We scrutinised every single detail, from the inclination of the bezel to the curvature of the glass—there was nothing we didn’t think about.”
The four new Escale models—two in rose gold and two in platinum—showcase Louis Vuitton’s heritage while pushing the boundaries of modern watchmaking. The rose gold versions feature textured centre dials inspired by the Louis Vuitton Monogram canvas, achieved through a custom stamping process and subtle sunburst brushing. This intricate detailing adds depth and tactility, drawing the eye across the dial’s varied textures.
Above Louis Vuitton Escale in platinum with a meteorite dial and a leather strap
Louis Vuitton Escale in platinum with a meteorite dial and a leather strap
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The platinum models, meanwhile, present the Maison’s mastery of gem‑setting and lapidary work. One version boasts a meteorite centre dial, highlighting the material’s natural mineral tones and textures, while the other juxtaposes an onyx centre dial with a bezel and case encrusted with baguette diamonds.
In a nod to the house’s storied history of trunk‑making, gold studs mark the minutes across all four models, evoking the nails on Louis Vuitton trunks. The lugs with decorative rivets throwback to the trunks as well, recalling their angled brass brackets.
With the exception of the diamond‑set platinum model, which has a 40.5 mm case, the new Escale timepieces come with cases measuring 39 mm across—a good size for both men and women. At the heart of each lies the chronometer‑certified calibre LFT023. Developed in collaboration with movement specialist Le Cercle des Horlogers, this proprietary automatic movement ensures high‑precision timekeeping with a 50‑hour power reserve.
Above Louis Vuitton’s new Escale watches in rose gold feature centre dials that call back to the Maison’s Monogram canvas
Louis Vuitton’s new Escale watches in rose gold feature centre dials that call back to the Maison’s Monogram canvas
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“All these small details make [for] a complex but also very elegant [design],” says Hegi, who shares that Paris is a constant source of inspiration for him. “Just as we have proven that our trunks are timeless, the Escale, too, is timeless. In French, we say, l’élégance parisienne—Parisian elegance. This is why the Escale is a dress watch you can wear all day long—with a suit, for a cocktail or any time of day. But this is not a watch you’ll wear to go fishing, it is not a sports watch. It is on a comfortable, supple leather strap; it has a case that’s neither too thick nor too thin; and it has a lot of presence.”
Looking ahead, Hegi envisions endless possibilities for the Escale collection. “This watch will remain a canvas for métiers d’art,” he asserts, hinting at future iterations featuring diamond settings, diverse dial colours and mixed gold tones. The Escale’s modular design allows for infinite creativity, ensuring its place as a pillar in Louis Vuitton’s evolving watchmaking portfolio.
“People know when they come to Louis Vuitton [that] they’ll have high‑end luxury products with the highest sense of quality,” he adds. “At the same time, Louis Vuitton doesn’t have a long history in watchmaking, so we have a lot of freedom in terms of creativity, and I think that’s what our clients are looking for when they come to buy our watches. We offer them something of assured quality that’s original and very creative.”
Credits
Images: Louis Vuitton
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Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.
