Cover Nic James and Stephanie Soh
Nic James and Stephanie Soh
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Self-confessed Cartier watch nerd Nic James and TickTockBelle Stephanie Soh share their highlights from the Geneva watch fair
With Watches and Wonders 2025 (WWG) still fresh in our minds, Tatler GMT reached out to Nic James, head of The Horology Club Malaysia, and Stephanie Soh, one-half of TicktockBelles in Singapore, for their thoughts on the fair from an enthusiast’s perspective.
Read more: Watches and Wonders 2025: Tatler GMT editors pick their favourite watches
NIC JAMES
What watch releases or trends stood out to you?
Last year’s event left me a bit underwhelmed. There were plenty of releases, but nothing that really grabbed my attention. As a collector, it came across like the industry was playing it safe.
But this year brought back the wow factor. We saw new movements, interesting technology, better case proportions, and thoughtful updates that made the watches more wearable. It felt like the brands cared about what was happening under the hood, not just how the watch looked on the outside. I was genuinely excited, and that hasn’t happened in a while.
Which maisons made the strongest statements this year?
Rolex really stood out to me. They launched the Land-Dweller with the new Dynapulse escapement, and that’s a big move from a brand known for slow and incremental changes. Rolex doesn’t often introduce entirely new models, so this was exciting to see. The engineering behind the escapement is interesting, and I’m curious to see how it performs over time. What excites me most is its potential— does this mean we will get to see a slimmer Submariner one day?
Ulysse Nardin also impressed me. I’ve always appreciated the Freak, but the new Diver [Air] really excited me. The skeletonised diver can handle 5,000g of force and is water-resistant up to 200m. It’s like Richard Mille technology that can be taken underwater. It wore so well too for a 44mm.
Any nice surprises?
Definitely Grand Seiko and the new U.F.A. (Ultra Fine Accuracy) spring drive movement. It felt like they were listening to collectors and delivered on what we’ve been asking for. The case is smaller with better proportions, and the movement is ultra-accurate at ±20 seconds per year! They even added on-the-fly micro-adjustment at the clasp, something I’ve personally been waiting for. This is one of the most thoughtful, collector-focused releases Grand Seiko has ever done.
How do you think this year’s releases reflect broader trends in collector preferences, if at all?
I think collectors today are looking for value and a point of difference. With prices rising, we're no longer willing to pay a premium for a simple dial change. What resonates now are new models, new movements, and improvements that actually enhance wearability. That’s why micro and independent brands are doing well as they constantly evolve, refining their designs and giving collectors something genuinely new and exciting at a price that makes sense. It’s about thoughtful innovation and standing out in a meaningful way.
Name your Top 3 watches from WWG 2025.
- Rolex Land-Dweller
- Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A.
- Ulysse Nardin Diver [Air]
See also: Why the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 is the perfect tribute to 250 years of legacy
Above Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB003
Grand Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB003
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STEPHANIE SOH
As an enthusiast, why are you excited about WWG every year?
Apart from being the first to view and touch the new novelties in person, I also enjoy experiencing the vibes at the individual booths. I also love meeting with members of the international watch community. WWG provides a platform for watch enthusiasts to come together.
What was your overall impression of WWG this year? How did it compare to previous editions you’ve attended?
It was bigger than the last one I attended in 2023, which I had gone to tick off a personal bucket list item. This year, we went as press on trade days and managed to visit 12 brands for a touch-and-feel. The touch-and-feel sessions were the main difference between the trade days and the public days.
Were there any particular watch releases that stood out?
I really liked the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date in pastel colours. I loved the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GMT Rattrapante and the Toric Quantième Perpétuel too. They were so classic and wearable.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic was another highlight, being the first world timer in a rectangular case with a world map in blue enamel. The vintage look of the Milanese strap for the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds was fantastic too.
Which maisons made the strongest statements this year?
Panerai with their underwater-themed booth to match the Luminor novelties. I was immediately immersed in their universe.
Any nice surprises?
Better known for their luxury handbags, Hermes surprised me with a variety of high complications, particularly the “time suspended” complication. The invitation to break free from the constraints of time and truly seize each moment added a fun element.
Above Hermès Cut Le temps suspendu
Hermès Cut Le temps suspendu
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How do you think this year’s releases reflect broader trends in watchmaking or collector preferences, if at all?
Many brands have scaled down the dimensions of their watches, in sync with the current trend. There are also many brands featuring stone and pastel coloured dials. There was also a significantly reduced distinction between men's and women's watches, making most designs genderless.
Name your Top 3 watches from WWG 2025.
- Cartier Tank a Guichets in yellow gold
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic in steel
- Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Terracotta
Topics
Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
