The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 bridges past and present with precise elegance
To commemorate its 250th anniversary, Breguet has chosen to revisit not its greatest horological invention—the tourbillon—but instead a minimalist pocket watch created for mass appeal. Originally registered in 1796, the Souscription watch, with its “simple architecture”, was borne out of Abraham Louis Breguet’s desire to expand his client base, believing that haute horlogerie should be accessible to more than a small group of elites. He had to rethink his marketing strategy. For one, it was the first watch to appear in an advertising pamphlet, a revolutionary move back then. For another, orders could be confirmed by paying a deposit that was a quarter of the price. Around 700 pieces were produced for more than 30 years.
Read more: Emmanuel Breguet’s journey through the pages of history
Breguet has recreated this elegant classic as a wristwatch, the Classique Souscription 2025 for its important milestone, preserving most of the elements Abraham himself envisioned and incorporated.
See also: Audemars Piguet marks 150th year: A new perpetual calendar movement with an all-in-one crown
A Pristine Face
One of the first things that stands out is the single-hand dial, resplendent in white grand feu enamel. Time-reading has been stripped down to its essence, via one Breguet hand that has been flame-blued and curved entirely by hand. The hand glides along the Breguet Arabic numerals and railroad minute track, both crafted in black petit feu enamel.
There is a secret signature between the centre of the dial and 6 o’clock, created using the method Abraham used—with a diamond-point pantograph. The “chevé” sapphire crystal, which is relatively flat and gently curved towards the edges, protects this exquisite dial.
“We wanted to surprise people by presenting not a grand complication, as some might have expected, but a single-hand watch.”
Above Breguet Classique Souscriptiopn 2025 in 40mm Breguet gold with white enamel dial
Introducing Breguet Gold
The case is in Breguet Gold, a precious alloy composed of 75 per cent gold, and enriched with silver, copper, and palladium. The material is resistant to discolouration, promising a lustrous brilliance for a long time. The case design itself has been rethought, particularly the case middle, which is satin-brushed, a style that appeared in the original timepiece, instead of being embellished with the typical Breguet fluting.
Read more: Understanding the different types of gold In watchmaking
Above The Breguet Gold is composed of gold, silver, copper, and palladium
An Open Heart
The VS00 movement beats at 3Hz with four days of power reserve on a single barrel. It is decorated with guilloche and features a ratchet wheel in the middle engraved with a cursive inscription of Abraham’s explanation of the design of the Sourscription movement taken from the advertising pamphlet.
Above The caseback reveals the VS00 movement that incorporated various elements from the original Souscription movement
The watch is paired with a navy blue alligator strap with 18-karat Breguet gold pin buckle and presented in a red leather case inspired by Breguet’s vintage Morrocan leather cases.
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