Cover Laurent Lecamp, CEO of Minerva
Laurent Lecamp, CEO of Minerva
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Laurent Lecamp, CEO of Minerva, on the decision to split Minerva from Montblanc
Often referred to as the watchmaking jewel of Montblanc, the Minerva manufacture in Villeret was established in 1858 and is renowned for its haute horlogerie hand-finished timepieces. Today, that legacy is overseen by Laurent Lecamp, CEO of Minerva and global managing director of Montblanc’s watch division.
Richemont acquired Minerva in 2006 and integrated it into Montblanc. This year, it was repositioned as its own brand—the Montblanc name will no longer appear on the dials of Minerva timepieces.
The timing was right to separate Montblanc and Minerva, Lecamp says. “[At the time of its acquisition] Montblanc was a very young watchmaking brand, only about 10 years old. It was not strong enough and hadn’t developed its identity yet. Its strongest products, such as the Nicolas Rieussec chronographs and Iced Sea collections, came much later. Minerva, on the other hand, already had a very strong reputation, especially among the connoisseurs. Now that Montblanc has established itself as a strong watchmaker, it is the right time to reposition them as distinct entities,” he adds.
Although Minerva now stands on its own, it will continue to support Montblanc on selected timepieces, such as the Geosphere. “Minerva is still under the Montblanc umbrella,” says Lecamp, adding that there are no plans for Minerva to supply movements to external parties.
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Above Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph
Minerva The Unveiled Chronograph
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The first Minerva collection to reflect this change comprises three The Unveiled models, two of which are limited editions.
There is a new rendition of The Unveiled Chronograph, with its reverse-mounted movement revealing the bridges, levers and gears through the openworked sapphire dial. This time, however, the plates and signature V-shaped bridge are coated in a rich brown hue. The Calibre M17.26 monopusher chronograph movement boasts a 50-hour power reserve and beats at the traditional frequency of 18,000vph. Available in a 43mm 18k yellow gold case, it is limited to 30 pieces and presented in a box featuring a secret opening mechanism for an added element of fun.
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Above Minerva The Unveiled Secret
Minerva The Unveiled Secret
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The Unveiled Secret is a more refined proposition at 39mm, featuring an entirely new reversed movement, the Calibre M13.26, designed to fit the smaller case size. Its openworked dial is adorned in deep wine red, matching the colour of the alligator leather strap. It comes in either a stainless steel case with an 18k rose gold fluted bezel (limited to 58 pieces) or an 18k rose gold case with a fluted bezel set with 84 brilliant-cut diamonds (limited to 18 pieces).
Minerva chronograph movements have a unique identifier: the V-shaped bridge, inspired by the view of the Combe Grède gorge in Villeret from the watchmakers’ workbenches. This design signature dates back to a Minerva patent filed in 1912. Reiterating its provenance, one side of the bridge is inscribed with the word “Minerva”, while the other bears the word “Villeret”. The “Minerva” arm supports the main gear controlling the sweeping seconds hand, while the opposite arm secures the wheel for the minute counter.
“Although it is more of an aesthetic signature, it is also technically interesting as it is made of German silver. This material has almost disappeared from watchmaking except in certain limited editions. But at Minerva, it is used for all our plates and bridges,” Lecamp notes.
Above Minerva The Unveiled Crownless
Minerva The Unveiled Crownless
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Last but not least is The Unveiled Crownless, inspired by a military watch from 1927. It was created for pilots, featuring a functional bezel that allowed them to adjust their watches easily while wearing gloves.
The Unveiled Crownless is the first Minerva timepiece without a crown. Winding and time-setting are performed entirely via the fluted bezel. This is made possible by the new manual-winding Calibre M15.08, which also drives a small seconds counter. Available in a 41.5mm stainless steel case with a rose gold bezel, The Unveiled Crownless features a guilloché gold-coloured dial and is the only watch in the latest line-up that is not a limited edition.
“We use the fluted bezel in a much more technical way [than the 1927 timepiece]. Turning it left winds the watch—three full turns provide over three days of power reserve. Turning it right doesn’t change the setting but provides a tactile ‘anti-stress’ connection with the watch. When you pull a small element on the caseback, the bezel can help set the time. It is unique, new, and much more elaborate, but based on the simple 1927 invention,” Lecamp elaborates.
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Above The caseback of Minerva The Unveiled Secret features an engraving of the Minerva manufacture in Villeret
The caseback of Minerva The Unveiled Secret features an engraving of the Minerva manufacture in Villeret
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Collectors appreciate the mechanical purity of Minerva, which honours traditional craftsmanship while introducing contemporary elements that enrich it. Lecamp, for his part, has little interest in being trendy or gimmicky.
“Everything we develop is in accordance with the past. We won’t follow a trend if it’s not connected with Minerva. You will always see something connected with the heritage but transformed into something modern and avant-garde. We count ourselves lucky that Minerva is 168 years old—you can buy everything except the age of your company. Our value is in our heritage.”
The Unveiled Crownless is most certainly the crown jewel of the new collection, and the reaction has been overwhelmingly positive.
“Nobody expected us to launch a watch without a crown. It was a big risk because most watches have a crown. However, it makes sense because we can explain that we replace the crown with the fluted bezel developed for pilots in 1927. It’s disruptive but legitimate because it’s based on the past,” says Lecamp.
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
