Cover Thibault Verdonckt joined MB&F in 2018
Thibault Verdonckt joined MB&F in 2018
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The head of sales of MB&F was in Kuala Lumpur to present the brand’s latest timepieces
Twenty years ago, MB&F was established, quietly laying the groundwork for a bold new vision of watchmaking. It released its first timepiece, the Horological Machine No.1, in 2007, also premiering the world's first movement with four barrels connected in both parallel and series. A design and engineering marvel unlike anything we had seen at that point, it set the tone for what was to come—a disruptive force in independent horology with a fiercely devoted cult following.
Its watches are massive, avant-garde statement pieces that showcase the architectural dimensions, often inspired by founder Max Büsser’s interest in automobiles and science fiction. Even its Legacy Machines, a collection that honours traditional watchmaking, are boldly three-dimensional in form.
Read more: Exploring the rise of watches in bold, unconventional shapes
Above MB&F SP One watches in platinum and rose gold
MB&F SP One watches in platinum and rose gold
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Just when things were starting to get predictable, MB&F went the opposite direction—creating its slimmest and smallest watch yet, the SP One, a subtly radical release timed for the brand’s 20th anniversary.
While its 38mm classically round case shape appears conventional, the execution is more classic MB&F. Based on an old sketch retrieved from a basket of dormant projects, SP One features the barrel, balance wheel and dial in identical circumferences and designed to appear as if they are floating beneath the sapphire crystal. You still get to enjoy the architectural beauty of the movement, only more understated than usual.
“It’s not a skeletonised movement, but one defined by this distinctive ‘Y’ shape that showcases the three key elements of a mechanical watch. We want people to focus on them as they are the most interesting,” said Thibault Verdonckt, MB&F’s head of sales, who has been travelling around Asia to present the SP One.
The SP stands for ‘Special Projects’, which will be a new collection—and an excuse to stretch the team’s imagination even further. “There are several projects in the pipeline,” said Verdonckt. “SP Two, which is already in the making, will be totally different from SP One. With this collection, we want to be free from any rules.”
See also: Urban Jürgensen officially relaunches under the stewardship of Kari Voutilainen
Above The sapphire caseback of the MB&F SP One showcases the movement components and jewels in all their glory
The sapphire caseback of the MB&F SP One showcases the movement components and jewels in all their glory
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Earlier this year, MB&F unveiled its interpretation of one of the jewellery world’s most emblematic designs, the Bvlgari Serpenti. Inspired by the shape of a snake’s head, the case is defined by intricate curves—flowing from its metal body to five sapphire crystals, including the snake-like eyes and rear. The latter is topped with a stepped crystal, evoking either the texture of reptilian scales or the rear window of a sleek sports car, depending on how you see it.
“They have never done a men’s watch with the Serpenti. A few months before the launch, some people at Bvlgari were a little nervous, but in the end, everyone was happy when it was finally presented at LVMH Watch Week in New York and Paris. It was a huge success and for me, it is one of the most beautiful watches ever created by MB&F,” said Verdonckt.
Above MB&F’s bold interpretation of the Bvlgari Serpenti
MB&F’s bold interpretation of the Bvlgari Serpenti
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Verdonckt credits Büsser for keeping the creative energy at a high level at MB&F. “He's always challenging us. He’s always asking us to come up with ideas that could lead the brand to bankruptcy!” he laughs. “But at the same time, our clients expect this from us. They are always reminding us that we need to surprise them. And I can tell you that the HM12 next year will be something unexpected.”
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
